I'm thinking of using Summit SUM-G1750.
Even with a wrap, my starter is having problems.

 

Had one on a GTO and it eliminated my starting problems. I don't know what all is included in the Summit kit, but I used directions off of the internet and went to NAPA for the parts and saved some coin. You probably have most of the pieces in your shop right now and the solenoid isn't pricey at all. Good luck and I think you'll find it an easy and worthy little project.

 

I'm using one in mine. I believe it's a ford solenoid I got from a local auto store. Very cheap. Fixed my starter issues. I put in on the firewall just below where the heater box is. Let me know if you need any pics.

 

I use a remote Ford starter on a Gear reduction starter,
perfect combination, Never any starter problems with a 10.1 comp.

also makes it easy to add Alarm starter cut out switch.

69VETT

 

Any reason you can't use a relay for this? Do you need a solenoid just so you can use a heavier guage wire than the 10 or 12 gauge off a relay? I've got a row of relays for my TPI, and I am looking at adding one since I now have this same problem. I've also got the Ford remote solenoid, so I can do that if a relay isn't as good. Thanks.

 

Just put on a mini starter and you will not have any problems. It is about 1/2 the weight of a standard starter and it does the job just fine. No need for anything else.

 

i have a mini starter and summit selinoid on my 454. have not had the car long but it starts just fine. i put this on my small block camaro years ago. one of the best things i have done for it. also, if you are not getting 13 volts at your headlight bulbs then you can use a relay to put 14 volts straight from the battery and have brighter lights. plus it pulls all the extra voltage out of your old dash wiring harness.

 

The solenoid is a relay. Just a really big one. It passes all of the current that the starter draws so it has to be that big. If you tried to use a standard relay for that application it would fry the first time you hit the switch.

 

Here's mine...I put it behind the passenger side front wheel.

 

Heres a link with some info about this topic

http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...adlights.shtml

 

Not sure I understand what you mean. The starter still has the heavy gauge wire directly from the battery, so it gets full voltage. I thought the whole point of the remote solenoid was to make sure the actual starter solenoid got full voltage to the S terminal.

 

When you have the Ford solenoid installed in the loop, the only time it's hot to the starter, is when it's kicked in. Keeping the voltage off the wire from the starter to the solenoid. The circle car racers started this on chevy's to keep fires down, and shorts on headers to the batt. I Think. Have a great one Gene

 

Not in all cases. I too have a mini reduction starter and was always taking the solenoid apart to clean the terminals when it wouldn't start. I went to the remote solenoid and bypassed the crappy solenoid in the mini-starter. No problems now. And I don't have a cheap mini starter. It's just that my BB headers run really close to it and I think the heat eventually gets to it.

 

on my 67 camaro i have this set up.. i used a oo welding cable (it has an inner sleeve that allows it to be very flexable and has many very small stranded wires). this wire is larger in diameter than any automotive battery wire except for large commercial diesel trucks. same size wire that goes into most homes. you can get large crimp fitting at most autoparts houses. you put the selinoid between the battery and the starter. so you have a very large cable on a very short lenght. now, you take your #12 factory wire that goes from your ingnition switch to your starter and place it on the selinoid. now this wire will turn the selinoid on and off. this will require a very small amount of power and basicially lets the seliniod connect the 2 larger wires providing a large flow of current to your starter. now, this small #12 wire used to provide the power to the starter to start your car. this alone will eliminate most hot start problems.

the relay you are talking about is about the size of the wire i used. it will get fried. those small relays work great on smaller stuff and they are rated at 30 amps. basically a #10 size wire. use those for electric fans, headlight kits like i referred to on the above post. these simple things will really help out your old wiring harness, provide better illumination at night, and lessen the chance of fire from electrical shorts.

 

Most folks wire remote solenoids (relays actually) like the following. Notice that the full current of the battery (which can be 400-700 amps) flows through one side of the relay. The starter is the only accessory on a car designed to carry the full load of a battery, thus there is no need for a fuse or fusable link in that circuit.

 

I did the remote solenoid using the Ford part. Send me a PM with your email and I will send you a Word Doc that has all the info, parts, pictures and schematics.
This mod beats the hell out of spending $150+ on a mini starter and it will look stock if you hide the solenoid good.....

 

Emails sent, good luck!

 

Yes worked for me .. installed the summit remote starter solinoid years ago on my 66 BB..........solved on going heat soak problem .my 66 has side exhaust ..anyways also installed mini stater & lasted 8 years..died today ..just did a post looking for sugestion on where to buy new mini starter ........

The Dog

 

You are correct. The primary reason for using a Ford solenoid is to get full voltage to the S terminal.
You could use a smaller relay to only control voltage to that terminal, but it isnt the way that it is typically done.
Either way the original starter solenoid still has to do the same job, it just gets a stronger voltage signal to engage it.

 

Another solenoid will only add resistance - from the contacts - and reduce voltage more.

All u have to do is draw the electrical schematic to see adding more solenoids in series only adds more contacts and drops more voltage. To say u can bypass the original solenoid with one on the fender is totally false! The original solenoid is still there and is the one that kicks out the little Bendix gear that turns the flywheel. Thats the fact and i can't account for how many claim they are bypassing the original solenoid.

If u what to reduce heat soak then you need to install a functional heat sheild. You can look in my signature link http://members.cardomain.com/cardo0 at the JC Whitney sheild i installed for $15 and it has proved itself in >100*F temps in city traffic.

Get the truth out,
cardo0