Power steering valve
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 141
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From: Greer SC
Power steering valve
I have installed a new power steering valve on my 72. When I apply the brakes I hear what seems to be a popping noise. When locating the noise I found that it is coming for the ball joint in the valve. When I apply the brakes you can see that center link move with the joint. I'm guessing that is not normal. I have tightened the castle nut to torque specs so I know that it's not loose and causing the problem. Unfortunately I built the suspension before I rebuilt the drive train so the valve I'm sure is out of warranty. Can it be rebuilt or do I by another one?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,417
Likes: 336
From: Texas
i did mine using these instructions , went well, worked good.
http://www.cssbinc.com/images/ads/ho...structions.pdf
http://www.cssbinc.com/images/ads/ho...structions.pdf
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 10,362
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From: San Diego - Deep Within The State of CONFUSION!
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 141
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From: Greer SC
What do you think would have caused the joint to come loose? If you move the wheels back and forth you notice the pitman arm moves but the valve does not. The ball and socket are what move inside the valve.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,116
From: Crossville TN
That ball/stud will move side-to-side some amount. It is only under spring pressure inside the valve...not a 'solid' joint. The side movement in that joint (when you steer in that direction) is what causes the valve to direct pressure to the steering cylinder. A 'popping' noise leads me to believe you have some other joint binding up. If the action of the steering is appropriate to the movement you impart to the steering wheel, the steering valve is not likely to be your problem. Check your idler arm, steering links, and ball joints.
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Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
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From: North Easton Mass
Rick B.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,116
From: Crossville TN
With the manufacturing sources that are available today (China, Mexico, ???), the 'new' P/S valves are not any better than rebuilt ones. At least rebuilt ones start out with good castings! Of the choices available to you, rebuilding the one on your car that has previously worked properly is the best choice (if you can do that kind of work). After that, I would choose to buy a vendor rebuilt unit...but I would take it all apart and check it for proper assembly before installing it.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,001
Likes: 112
From: Saginaw Michigan
CONTROL VALVE LEAKS
Does your control valve have a zerk fitting? If it does, be very careful that you do not overfill and pressurize the ball stud cavity. Excessive pressure can unseat seals inside the valve and cause a leak.
Original valves had a ball stud seal that had a very small grease purge slit that allowed excess grease to ooze out of the ball stud cavity. Those valves had a zerk fitting.
Later valves were "greased for life." So the zerk fitting was eliminated and the seal had the purge slit eliminated. (Nobody expected "greased for life" to be 30 or 40 years!)
Now you take into account rebuilders who make take an old casting (with a zerk) and install a new ball stud seal without a slit. People that see a zerk automatically put the old grease gun to it. This could possibly unseat the internal seal and power steering fluid leaks into the ball stud cavity.
Jim
Does your control valve have a zerk fitting? If it does, be very careful that you do not overfill and pressurize the ball stud cavity. Excessive pressure can unseat seals inside the valve and cause a leak.
Original valves had a ball stud seal that had a very small grease purge slit that allowed excess grease to ooze out of the ball stud cavity. Those valves had a zerk fitting.
Later valves were "greased for life." So the zerk fitting was eliminated and the seal had the purge slit eliminated. (Nobody expected "greased for life" to be 30 or 40 years!)
Now you take into account rebuilders who make take an old casting (with a zerk) and install a new ball stud seal without a slit. People that see a zerk automatically put the old grease gun to it. This could possibly unseat the internal seal and power steering fluid leaks into the ball stud cavity.
Jim
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2009
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From: Greer SC
I found that mine was a rebuilt unit from Muskegon brake and did not have a zerk fitting. I looked at 72LS1's link and found that. It seems, unfortunately, that I got your email Jim too late. I removed the allen screw they put in the valve and replaced it with a zerk and applied grease to it. It sounds like I may have now over greased it. It's pouring rain here so needless to say that I haven't driven the Vette since this weekend when I greased the fitting.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,116
From: Crossville TN
Too much grease pressure on the Zerk fitting can result in a fluid leak...as an internal seal can rupture. But I don't think that would cause any mechanical fault with the valve; it shouldn't result in some "popping" noise that you can hear inside the vehicle. Again, did this 'problem' cause any unusual behavior in the steering?
