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I installed the new composite spring, and it has one hell of an arc to it. Can i jack it up into place so that the 8" bolts will go through the hole? Or what is the correct way to connect this up?
Put a c clamp on it, so the jack doesn't slide, then you jack up the ends, and install the bolts, then let the jack off. It can be a pain getting the bolts both in, they have to be at JUST the right angle, but with enough jiggling, they eventually set in.
Just to expound on what others have said, I personally like to sandwich 2 thin wood planks with 2 c-clamps. That way I don't run the risk of marring up the glass spring.
I found on my 69 that a 2x4 long enough to butt up against the spring mounting plate and extend out to the end of the spring just before the bushing plate is a great way to jack it up into place. Use 1 or 2 small ratchet straps to bind the 2x4 in place (like a splint to locate it) and jack up on the end by the bushing plate by catching the end of the 2x4 in the cup of the jack. Leave enough room so you can install the bushing washer and bolt.
This way you don't have to clamp down on the spring itself.
Really didn't take much pressure to put in in place. I used the same process to remove the old steel spring. Felt very safe. With the ratchet straps and butt'd against the mount plate it could not slip.
Ok i got them in this afternoon, does this look correct? The sway bar does not connect to the trailing arms, I am not sure if its the spring or the shock thats holding it from compressing enough? I guess once i get some weight on the rear of the car and it sits all winter the spring may relax enough. If i try to jack under the trailing arm, it only goes so far then lifts the entire car off the jack stands. I ended up using the 8" bolts.
Yes i am, i had to cut the top ones in order to get them to fit in the trailing arms, and also to get the swaybar mounting plates in. Do the stock rubber ones make a difference?
Spring will not relax. My composite spring has not relaxed in over 12 years. The TRW springs have way too much arch and need longer bolts. Mine are almost 10" long.
Did you drill your T/A's for an aftermarket rear swaybilizer bar?
Did they give you a template? I'm facing this part this week. I don't want to drill them wrong.
Spring will not relax. My composite spring has not relaxed in over 12 years. The TRW springs have way too much arch and need longer bolts. Mine are almost 10" long.
Ok well i can take it apart again and get 10 " bolts if i need too.
Did you drill your T/A's for an aftermarket rear swaybilizer bar?
Did they give you a template? I'm facing this part this week. I don't want to drill them wrong.
-W
No my stock trailing arms were drilled for a sway bar, but the car never came with one. The kit comes with a plate with 2 nuts welded to it already, and it all lined up.
LOL yes i am very fussy, maybe a bit **** about it? Thanks, it took 5 days and nights to clean scrape and undercoat the body, hope to never have to do that again?
Does the inside nut plate just fit flush with the edge of the T/A?
Can you get a pic up of the top of the T/A please?
Or is it sufficiant to say "centered on the T/A and centered on the bolt hole"?
Also... was your frame already drilled with the nuts in there?
-W
The nut plate fits flush, and i think the holes were drilled off center? I came down with a nasty sinus cold right now, and have to work tonight too, i will try to get a couple pictures Tomorrow after i wake up.