Carrier and Side Yokes
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 3,720
Likes: 557
From: Seattle Washington
Carrier and Side Yokes
So I understand why to Polish a Carrier its just like a Conecting Rod when we would take a Pink Rod and Polish the beams and then Shot Peen them to harden the Metal. But I have never herd of shot peening the Carrier why not?? On the side Yokes they can be sent in and have the Tips Hard'nd or the Tips can be machined off and Hard Tips installed. Whats the Pro's and cons of both Methods? I would think the first would be easyer,and the later better. I have seen three 80-82 Rear ends and the Side Yoke Clearance is out of this world, generaly with the Pin worn out to. They must of missed the Hard'n proccess all togeather on the late stuff.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,727
Likes: 38
From: Fremont CA
You can put a early C3 iron differential on your "bat wing" crossmember. That would give you greater strength.
Shot peening the carrier is a great idea (be sure to protect the ring gear mounting flange and inner machined surfaces from the blaster), as far as side yokes, I guess if there is no aftermarket, putting the buttons on them and running a Tom's Differential hardend cross shaft will be OK.
I always wanted to find a piar of 80-82 driver's side yokes sometime and double check if 2 of them would work on a 30 spline iron differential spider gear set-up. I think they will work but, may not be any cheaper than Tom's side yokes after you hunt them up. I never have been able to figure out why Chevy went to different length side yokes on the aluminum differentail so you have to hunt up driver's side only for doing a 30 spline conversion on a early iron differential. I do know I would want some 4 speed ones after looking at the auto trans ones, I think they use 6mm bolts for the U-joint straps, how these don't break is beyond me, even in the 305cu/in California Vettes.
For a high HP Vette your fighting a losing battle running even the Dana 44 series aluminum differential. I would go with the iron one if I were planning on any abuse at the Drags or Autocross races.
Shot peening the carrier is a great idea (be sure to protect the ring gear mounting flange and inner machined surfaces from the blaster), as far as side yokes, I guess if there is no aftermarket, putting the buttons on them and running a Tom's Differential hardend cross shaft will be OK.
I always wanted to find a piar of 80-82 driver's side yokes sometime and double check if 2 of them would work on a 30 spline iron differential spider gear set-up. I think they will work but, may not be any cheaper than Tom's side yokes after you hunt them up. I never have been able to figure out why Chevy went to different length side yokes on the aluminum differentail so you have to hunt up driver's side only for doing a 30 spline conversion on a early iron differential. I do know I would want some 4 speed ones after looking at the auto trans ones, I think they use 6mm bolts for the U-joint straps, how these don't break is beyond me, even in the 305cu/in California Vettes.
For a high HP Vette your fighting a losing battle running even the Dana 44 series aluminum differential. I would go with the iron one if I were planning on any abuse at the Drags or Autocross races.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 3,720
Likes: 557
From: Seattle Washington
Pretty soon I will have a left over Auto Yoke or two if You want them for try out. They use 1/4" NF bolts and the Manual Cars used 5/16" Bolts to hold the U-Joints. I'm not sure why but Tom's can only get one side, wile other vendors can get both sides, and they all come in a Spicer box.
You can put a early C3 iron differential on your "bat wing" crossmember. That would give you greater strength.
Shot peening the carrier is a great idea (be sure to protect the ring gear mounting flange and inner machined surfaces from the blaster), as far as side yokes, I guess if there is no aftermarket, putting the buttons on them and running a Tom's Differential hardend cross shaft will be OK.
I always wanted to find a piar of 80-82 driver's side yokes sometime and double check if 2 of them would work on a 30 spline iron differential spider gear set-up. I think they will work but, may not be any cheaper than Tom's side yokes after you hunt them up. I never have been able to figure out why Chevy went to different length side yokes on the aluminum differentail so you have to hunt up driver's side only for doing a 30 spline conversion on a early iron differential. I do know I would want some 4 speed ones after looking at the auto trans ones, I think they use 6mm bolts for the U-joint straps, how these don't break is beyond me, even in the 305cu/in California Vettes.
For a high HP Vette your fighting a losing battle running even the Dana 44 series aluminum differential. I would go with the iron one if I were planning on any abuse at the Drags or Autocross races.
Shot peening the carrier is a great idea (be sure to protect the ring gear mounting flange and inner machined surfaces from the blaster), as far as side yokes, I guess if there is no aftermarket, putting the buttons on them and running a Tom's Differential hardend cross shaft will be OK.
I always wanted to find a piar of 80-82 driver's side yokes sometime and double check if 2 of them would work on a 30 spline iron differential spider gear set-up. I think they will work but, may not be any cheaper than Tom's side yokes after you hunt them up. I never have been able to figure out why Chevy went to different length side yokes on the aluminum differentail so you have to hunt up driver's side only for doing a 30 spline conversion on a early iron differential. I do know I would want some 4 speed ones after looking at the auto trans ones, I think they use 6mm bolts for the U-joint straps, how these don't break is beyond me, even in the 305cu/in California Vettes.
For a high HP Vette your fighting a losing battle running even the Dana 44 series aluminum differential. I would go with the iron one if I were planning on any abuse at the Drags or Autocross races.
