I think that 'while I'm at it' with the entire rear suspension / diff / driveshaft out of the car it's time to replace the gas tank. Anyone have any tips (other than it should be empty first)? :D BTW, I'm going to get a replacement from Quanta. They're only $200 and are exactly like the originals down to the AL logo. I'm pretty sure the one in there now is a replacement gas tank - and it's not 20 gallons - barely 17 gallons. Also the lines need replacement as I'm getting that tell tale gas smell dripping on the hot exhaust. Not a safe thing to smell. :p:

 

When I first bought my '70, the gas tank sprung a leak (a tiny rust hole). The most difficult part I remember was maneuvering the tank around the exhaust pipes. For me, the trick was sliding one end toward one of the fenders, so that the other end dropped down through the open space. Maybe with your rear end components out of the car, you will find more room to "play" with.

Best Wishes

 

Juliet,
I just put the gas tank back in my 81, it came out and went back in with no problems. I'm not sure if yours will be the same, but there was only one bracket with two bolts at each end going across the bottom of the tank and the two tank straps that hold the tank in place. When you remove these you will have to twist the tank from front to back a little and it will slip right out. I put a piece of plywood on my jack and raised it up to the tank and then used this to lower the tank.
There is a long piece of foam along the top of the tank that is used for a cushion. Mine was in bad shape so I just went to our local fabric store and got a big piece of foam and cut it to fit. It only cost me $3.00 and worked fine. On my tank straps there was something that looked just like tar paper that was destroyed, so I used a piece of tarpaper and some silicone to glue it in place and that also worked fine. Hope I have helped you. Take care and good luck.

 

Yep, that piece of "tar" paper is antisqueak padding. DEFINATELY replace those. My original mufflers were rotten, so I was easily able to bend them out of the way.

Juliet, how are you planning on replacing the fuel lines with the body ON?
http://vettefinders.com/index.cfm/fu...tory/ID/10.htm

Oh yeah, you may want to order a new rubber seal for your filler neck/sending unit.


[Modified by Chris@VetteFinders, 9:03 PM 2/24/2002]

 

i just removed My tank last weakend it came out prety easy. I think it helped that I soaked all the bolts with brake fluid. While it was out I was going to take it to a local shop that chemicaly cleans gas tanks and puts an epoxy coating on them. But when I removed the sending unit, (the reason I was doing this in the first place). I found that there was a rubber blader inside of the metal tank. And no tank sticker.
:confused:
Do any of you know if this is how it was in 76 or is it an aftermarket tank.
Not that it realy matters but i guess it is good to know.
TTFN

 

Thanks for the tips. I'm hoping to only replace the rubber portions of the lines. I believe the steel lines are in pretty good shape to avoid replacing them. I'm only a few bolts away from being able to take the body off the car, but I don't think I want to go there. :eek: Admittedly, it would make things easier though. Anyways, the exhaust is out of the car, as is the spare assy, so there's nothing in the way (I think). Thanks for that link Chris. :)

I don't recall if my tank is almost empty or not though - it's been a month since I've driven it!! Say it's got too much fuel in it... what's the easiest way to get it out? The car is on jackstands in the garage and not driveable (engine is runnable though). I could siphon the stuff out into the lawnmower /etc gas cans or something... Hmmmm.... ~Juliet

 

Juliet, I wouldn't do a frame-off if I were you. WAAYYY too expensive to keep your car original, and I know that is your goal.

I think the easiest way to remove the fuel is with a drill pump. You can buy it at home depot.


[Modified by Chris@VetteFinders, 9:32 PM 2/24/2002]

 

Aaron-
Our 76's have a bladder in the tank. I notice that many places don't stock our year. Post if you find a replacement. Good luck.

 

R. Bruno
I don't need a replacement mine is just fine the only reason I was going to coat the tank was for preventive reasons.I was just wondering when they started using a blader tank, or are 76's the only year.

 

Aaron,

75 was the first year for bladder. Just got done this last weekend having mine removed. Was only able to get abouit 12 1/2 gallons of gas in the tank,so decided to drop the tank and remove bladder. Didn't know alot of info on my Vette, but when we droped the tank, found no evidence of build sheet ( I mean no evidence, not even glue) and tank looked too new to be 27 years old. Makes me think it's beeen replaced before.
Anyway,cut the bladder out and put the tank back in. Took it to the gas station after putting in 2 gallons to get it there. Walla, 15.4 more gallons went in. Now I can drive a whole 180 miles before running out of gas.

 

Be careful dropping the tank. At the drivers side upper area there is a plastic valve that is hosed toward the vapor canister in the engine bay. That plastic valve can break easily and it's not on the after market. Used ones go for about $100.

BTW..rather than replace the tank, consider a gas tank sealer. I think MidAmerica sells it in quart sizes. I bought some at an aircraft repair shop.


[Modified by AlwaysWave, 5:18 AM 2/25/2002]

 

I used the Eastwoods gas tank sealer kit and the tank galvanized paint to do mine 1.5 years ago. It wasn't leaking and only had surface rust on it. It seemed to work well inside and the paint on th eoutside looks good- BUT it isn't in the car yet either. Something to think about if there's not a lot of rust in there.
Gary

 

Juliet..

I replaced the tank in my 70 last year and it was pretty easy.

Remove the hose(s) and wire first, because they will hang you up. Then the cross-member... then tilt & drop.

Even a few quarts of gas in the tank will slosh around during removal and can cause you to lose your grip on the tank. Not a big deal, but noteworthy. Corvette tanks & plumbing vary significantly from year to year... and even within year. You probably already know this, but... the 70 Vettes without option NA9 (Evap. Cannister) have a very basic connection, with no gizmos to worry about (mine does not have it, never did). The cap/tank & lines are different based upon this option, so you have to order the correct tank. Mine has a built in, non-serviceable, non-replaceable atmospheric vent. NA9 tanks are not vented to the atmosphere, so they do not have the same plumbing.

Anyhow... I purchased the tank and new tank straps directly from GM... were still good numbers. But, the tank was not "boxed" and I was not too crazy about that. I cleaned it up & coated the outside to inhibit rust. The new straps were impossible to install because they come as straight, flat pieces, with no "pre-bends".... I could not get the new straps to bend tight enough to get the mounting screws back through the tabs. So, I ended up sandsblasting the old straps and re-using them.

There was no foam cushion on my tank, but the anti-squeak paper strips were there.... and rotten.
Tip- don't bother buying the strips because all they send you is tar-paper cut off from a roll from Home Depot.
I bought them (duh) for both my 66 and my 70 only to find this out.... the strips they send you have the roofing guidelines on them.

I think the original paper was not "tar-paper", but a denser material that nobody seems to have.... more of a roofing "felt" than paper. I saved my originals for comparison to tar paper,... and the material is definitely not the same. But... everyone uses tar paper anyways.

As far as draining the tank.... you could always loosen the sending unit by removing the retaining ring and letting the gas dump into a pan. It will be messy, but effective. I would only try this if there is less than a gallon in the tank... otherwise it would be unmanageable.

Tom

 

Just make sure you are working in a well ventilated area when messing with fuel tank removal. Also be careful with extension cords/trouble lights when draining gas tank and removing. Don't want any sparks in an area where gas fumes are present.

Suggest you work with garage door opened, and maybe a fan blowing fumes out of the garage.

 

Rich, '75-'77 build sheets did'nt come on the tanks as far as I know. The build sheet is on that "safety shield" between the fuel tank and the rear deck lid body. Mine was as your's was-no sticker or evidence of glue,etc. I've been told by a few "restorers" that it is "on the shield".

Also, '75-'77s DID NOT have that plastic piece for the fuel tank vapor vent. It is at least on '73-'74s that I know of.

 

did it myself , on my 66 .......was no problem, as i have side exhaust....check the 6" or so fuel line from tank to metal line it goes bad , gets hard & brittle , as well as small rubber line from fuel pump to main line I replace them every 3 years, fuel additives MTBE, raise hell with the rubber............... :eek:


[Modified by StrayDog, 6:59 PM 2/25/2002]

 

good info here. i need to get my sending unit changed. gauge reads 1/4 tank when empty.