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I'm going to need more than the stock 3/8" fuel pickup. What's the best way to do this? Since my fuel pump has 2 1/2" inlets, I was thinking one in the front, one in the back of the tank. Should I just make a hole and braze 2 1/2" fittings in? Or should I do a sump like Monty?
I see you have not recieved any replies so I thought I would tell you what I am going to do.I am going to replace the line in the pickup/sending unit with 1/2 tubing and flair as much as possible the bottom end of the tube.Then will take another piece and split it to add on in the tank side of new tube to keep it from bending because of slosh ect.Have seen Aluminum tubes actually bend during hard aceleration in 8-9 second Drag Boats.Times we certainly won't be running but while I am in there,I'm bracing it!
When guys are welding on gas tanks for whatever reason be it full of water or Argon and especially the somewhat porous aluminum tanks,I'm outa there!
I silver soldered 2 half inch barbed inserts into the lowest part of my tank.
Silver soldered is extremely strong, requires a temperature of 1200 degrees and has a high silver content. It flows in like regular solder but is far stronger.
I properly vent the tank before welding, soldering or whatever remove all cover plates and stick the shop vac into it on blow if possible, if not vacuum. It can be left on as little as 5 minutes but I like 30 minutes. This long is not necessary but I am in no hurry. After this weld away or whatever.
ddn,
Consider an "aeroquip" bulkhead fitting on the bottom of the tank, In a million years I would NEVER use a torch anywhere near a gas tank (unless it was full of water). ...redvetracr
My son had a job at a rad, gas tank shop, Redi rad and they daily fixed leaks. I have done this a few times and never had a problem. If vented properly you will not have a problem. 30 minutes with a shop vac is safe.
ddn,
I can assume you know what a "bulkhead fitting" is?? Where you put it depends on what kind of racing your into, for drag racing i think it should be at the back at the lowest spot in the middle and for road course two fittings near the back but each far out from center. IT might be more important how big the hole where the sender is, you need a flat spot (on the bottom) to drill the hole but you need "access" to get a wrench or a deepwell socket on the fitting (to tighten). You can get a plastic washer to seal when you tighten the nut. This is the same deal used on a "fuel cell' they just come out the top. You could do it out the top with a bulkhead also just use a push on fitting with a piece of rubber hose and a fuel cell "sock" inside the tank with the rubber hose laying on the bottom.The only downside would be there is nothing to stop the rubber hose from moving around. ...redvetracr
Interestingly the 69's have the pickup on the bottom of the tank so ( once the tank is empty ) you can pull the sender and pickup out, weld to your hearts content without fear of explosion :D:D
Interestingly the 69's have the pickup on the bottom of the tank so ( once the tank is empty ) you can pull the sender and pickup out, weld to your hearts content without fear of explosion :D:D
Even if a tank is empty, and gas will have "migrated" into the metal of the tank. When heated some of these fumes will escape the metal. When I weld a tank I use a leaf blower for half an hour or so (what can I say..... my shop vac sucks). I then heat the metal in the area I plan on welding gently with the torch a distance away and let the area cool down before getting the flame to close. Before I had a leaf blower I would run a cars exhaust through the tank for about half an hour at fast idle using the flexible exhaust tubing that used to be available. That not only helped the purge, it heated the tank to help release fumes.