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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 08:59 AM
  #21  
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Even if we were talking about an aluminum part, there is on helluva lot of difference in hardness, strength and wear durability between pure aluminum and any of the aircraft-quality aluminum alloys. I wonder how long a 10:1 compression cylinder head would last if it was just "aluminum"?
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 10:51 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Solid LT1
Your ignorance shows as we are talking about a CAST IRON engine block here! I have never heard much about Nickle being used in Aluminum alloying. If you can show me any Alluminum alloys containing Nickle, it will be news to me.
So you were for some reason I was thinking aluminum LOL! Anyways to answer your other question I would love to sit down and write and long paper on all the differant alloys of aluminum their is but I will just say this. Copper, chromium, silicon, magnesium, iron and nickel are all additives used. Iron and nickel are used in the high end aluminum alloys for the strength factor 8006 is the first to mind. Grant it at the aluminum excrusion plant I used to work at for a good many years we didin't use 8006. We used mega tons of 6063, 6061, 4145 and 7075
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 11:04 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
Even if we were talking about an aluminum part, there is on helluva lot of difference in hardness, strength and wear durability between pure aluminum and any of the aircraft-quality aluminum alloys. I wonder how long a 10:1 compression cylinder head would last if it was just "aluminum"?
Even 60 series aluminum can be hardened to T6 which is hard. 10.1 is no problem on a good aluminum system, what are the new vets running for engine parts…
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 11:12 AM
  #24  
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Had a shop down in NY had to marine engines come in with ProComp heads and after 35 hours of running solt water through them they basicly fell apart and buy time the got the engine to the shop some of the cylinders were full of salt water and the blocks had to be replaced as well.

And he said he has runn the Dart heads and AFR's in the same inviorment for 7 years and no issues like this. HMMMMMMMMMMMM
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 11:42 AM
  #25  
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Brand new engines and they fell apart like that wow!!! Were the engines built to marine standards? Not a marine engine expert at all but they have special requirements over road engines. Kinda sounds like a cheap gasket started the catastrophe to me??? So what was the outcome inquiring mind needs to know since I own a pair of procomp heads.
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 12:40 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by 69Zlover
Brand new engines and they fell apart like that wow!!! Were the engines built to marine standards? Not a marine engine expert at all but they have special requirements over road engines. Kinda sounds like a cheap gasket started the catastrophe to me??? So what was the outcome inquiring mind needs to know since I own a pair of procomp heads.
The engine builder said they water ports look like they just melted nothing ot do with the gasket just cheap head castings.

FWIW We won't build and engine with anything Procomp.

Do a search
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 12:50 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by BLOCKMAN
The engine builder said they water ports look like they just melted nothing ot do with the gasket just cheap head castings.

FWIW We won't build and engine with anything Procomp.

Do a search
Sucks to be those guys! What a way to go down.
Should have gone with a heat exchanger or something to be on the way safe side of things. 35 hours spread out over how long? Big question is have they been flushing their systems after playing in salt water? Salt water sitting all year in or on aluminum will act like an acid. Magnesium and zinc don’t like salt water!!! Dart or procomp T4 or T6 will corrode to nothing. The more you replace these items with nickel or iron the better your chances of making it another year thus making the Dart a better aluminum part. Sodium hydroxide is what we use to boil our dies out with to clean them up and believe me in one night you can dissolve a boat load of aluminum.
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 02:58 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by BLOCKMAN
It appears PBM and Wheeler are using them and they are know as the Procomp block as well.
so your saying that the block tested is the same as the PBM Wheeler and Procomp blocks? they are all crappy soft junk?
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 06:00 PM
  #29  
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I like the Dart stuff. I run the SHP block myself. I know they actually have their own foundry, so you can pretty much guarantee they make their parts here.
I can tell you form being in the industry, Procomp is just known as a China knock-off company. I've seen actual products of theirs compaired the their real counterparts and it is no comparison to any kind of trained eye.
There's good deals out there, but you got stick to known and proven companies. I know it's hard when the price is so tempting, but you got to do it!
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 06:08 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by 69Zlover
Sucks to be those guys! What a way to go down.
Should have gone with a heat exchanger or something to be on the way safe side of things. 35 hours spread out over how long? Big question is have they been flushing their systems after playing in salt water? Salt water sitting all year in or on aluminum will act like an acid. Magnesium and zinc don’t like salt water!!! Dart or procomp T4 or T6 will corrode to nothing. The more you replace these items with nickel or iron the better your chances of making it another year thus making the Dart a better aluminum part. Sodium hydroxide is what we use to boil our dies out with to clean them up and believe me in one night you can dissolve a boat load of aluminum.

35 hours this year and never had to use an heat exchanger so far as he has heads that have gone 7 years and has never seen anything like this before.

Last edited by BLOCKMAN; Nov 1, 2009 at 06:13 PM.
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 06:23 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by brngrhd
so your saying that the block tested is the same as the PBM Wheeler and Procomp blocks? they are all crappy soft junk?
The block that was sent to me I was told came from Peter Wheeler and the one in the pic came from PBM and you can see they try to cover up the serial number,

Originally Posted by CNC BLOCKS
Originally Posted by nich
This is a picture I took of the PBM block from our shop. Why would a person etch a logo over top of a serial number? Is PBM trying to hide something? Carl, does your Procomp block look like this on the starter pad, except without the PBM logo? Also, our block has the same weird insert in the rear main cap for the oil pump threads and it looks IDENTICAL to the Procomp block pics posted in the other thread.


Thanks,
nich

Well here is a pic of the serial number on the Brand X block on the starter pad as this should clear things up. the numbers sure look similar.

A picture is worth a million words!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 09:12 PM
  #32  
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guessing this would be the same for the big blocks then too
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 09:45 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by BLOCKMAN
35 hours this year and never had to use an heat exchanger so far as he has heads that have gone 7 years and has never seen anything like this before.
That’s crazy!!! That short of time and to cook a hole through it. Man that was a horrible cast or something and must have been so thin you could have broken through with your finger new. Any rate I bet them (boat owners) also got educated after the fact on coating the insides of your aluminum stuff for salt water. Has been known to be an oversight to some builders. Take care of your stuff and it should last years. Were they first generation Procomps? I hope so…
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Old Nov 2, 2009 | 12:31 PM
  #34  
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Aluminum mated with steel, and salt water really don't mix well. There is some nasty Galvanic action going on when these guys get together. That's why most salt-water boat owners use sacrificial anodes to take the 'hit'. Those that don't do so end up with aluma-mush.
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Old Nov 2, 2009 | 02:50 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by 69Zlover
That’s crazy!!! That short of time and to cook a hole through it. Man that was a horrible cast or something and must have been so thin you could have broken through with your finger new. Any rate I bet them (boat owners) also got educated after the fact on coating the insides of your aluminum stuff for salt water. Has been known to be an oversight to some builders. Take care of your stuff and it should last years. Were they first generation Procomps? I hope so…
This was not the engines builders first rodeo building performance engines for boats like I said has had Dart heads go for 7 years and no issues so far and many hours and the Pro comp heads never lasted 35 hours.
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Old Nov 2, 2009 | 03:18 PM
  #36  
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I would think Dart coats theirs if they know it’s going into a salt water boat. So they should last a lot longer… No one in his right mind would spend that much money and not do it right?
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Old Nov 2, 2009 | 04:13 PM
  #37  
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This Wheeler stuff, I see cranks, rods etc etc. I wonder how long they are gonna last
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