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I am was running HEI...Non tach drive....Switched to original Points (tach drive) and really can't tell much of a difference on Starts or performance...I had a Pertronix II Ignitor..which was O>K> but it died in 2 months...It converts points to HEI..I think I am going to run points for now. :cheers:
Just going on what I've heard, HEI is much more reliable and easier to set up/maintain. Honestly, I haven't heard any benefits of using points setup. Then again there are a lot of things I probably haven't heard.
A points type distributor in top shape with new points and condensor, set to the correct dwell, will perform almost identically to a stock HEI distributor. Yes there will be minor differences and the HEI is probably more efficent and reliable, but the differences are probably only noticeable on a dyno.
The real advantage to HEI or any electronic ignition is that it will stay where you put it, points won't. Wear and oxidation on the points will cause the dwell to creep and the points to misfire after a while.
At high load and high rpms, both points and stock HEI distributors will drop the ball, that's why MSD, Jacobs and other electronic ignition setups are so popular.
The Pertronix, Mallory Unilite and other conversion setups also perform about the same as points but they don't wear out or get out of adjustment. The original Pertronix Ignitor, and the Pertronix Lobe Sensor are very reliable, but there has been some problems with the Ignitor II with failures, but Pertronix is making good on them.
The absolute most important thing is that your distributor, no matter what kind, is in top conditon, no excessive runout, no worn bushings, correct advance weights and mechanical and vacuum advance working as they should. A rebuilt distributor will make a world of difference in how accurate your ignition system works, either points or HEI.
A points type distributor in top shape with new points and condensor, set to the correct dwell, will perform almost identically to a stock HEI distributor. Yes there will be minor differences and the HEI is probably more efficent and reliable, but the differences are probably only noticeable on a dyno.
The real advantage to HEI or any electronic ignition is that it will stay where you put it, points won't. Wear and oxidation on the points will cause the dwell to creep and the points to misfire after a while.
At high load and high rpms, both points and stock HEI distributors will drop the ball, that's why MSD, Jacobs and other electronic ignition setups are so popular.
The Pertronix, Mallory Unilite and other conversion setups also perform about the same as points but they don't wear out or get out of adjustment. The original Pertronix Ignitor, and the Pertronix Lobe Sensor are very reliable, but there has been some problems with the Ignitor II with failures, but Pertronix is making good on them.
The absolute most important thing is that your distributor, no matter what kind, is in top conditon, no excessive runout, no worn bushings, correct advance weights and mechanical and vacuum advance working as they should. A rebuilt distributor will make a world of difference in how accurate your ignition system works, either points or HEI.
I always convert my Vettes to HEI. HEI is much more reliable than points and last much longer.
To convert to HEI - I would purchase the PROFORM 50000 Volt HEI Distrubutor from JEGS for approx. $150.
You will also have to change your tachometer. You can get an used Tach from Contemporary Corvette for $100. (75-77 Vette Tachometer).
This tach will fit perfectly into your dash! (same dimensions as the 69 tach). Your total costs will be approx. $250 (if you install the Distributor and the Tach yourself). You could also go with the Tach Drive HEI Ignition. However - the Tach Drive Version of the HEI Iginition costs much more than the PROFORM HEI plus the electrical Tach together. A Tach-Drive HEI costs $499.99 at ECKLERS!!!!
I have the GM HEI that came with my zz4, but an MSD dist. with tach drive and a MSD ignittion box would be my vote about both points and HEI.
In any case if you could afford it, Id add an aftermarket igntion box for better spark
I am running an ignition box (Crane HI6) with points. The points carry no voltage so they will last almost forever. They are just a triggering device. This keeps my distributor and tach drive but I have plenty of spark. Runs perfect to 7000 rpm. The HEI is tough to beat for a daily driver.
No Question HEI, or most any after market transister box or capacitive discharge system is better. Id list all the reasons but there aint enough bandwidth :smash: :cool: :smash: :cool: :chevy
A points type distributor in top shape with new points and condensor, set to the correct dwell, will perform almost identically to a stock HEI distributor. Yes there will be minor differences and the HEI is probably more efficent and reliable, but the differences are probably only noticeable on a dyno.
The real advantage to HEI or any electronic ignition is that it will stay where you put it, points won't. Wear and oxidation on the points will cause the dwell to creep and the points to misfire after a while.
At high load and high rpms, both points and stock HEI distributors will drop the ball, that's why MSD, Jacobs and other electronic ignition setups are so popular.
The Pertronix, Mallory Unilite and other conversion setups also perform about the same as points but they don't wear out or get out of adjustment. The original Pertronix Ignitor, and the Pertronix Lobe Sensor are very reliable, but there has been some problems with the Ignitor II with failures, but Pertronix is making good on them.
The absolute most important thing is that your distributor, no matter what kind, is in top conditon, no excessive runout, no worn bushings, correct advance weights and mechanical and vacuum advance working as they should. A rebuilt distributor will make a world of difference in how accurate your ignition system works, either points or HEI.
Smokehouse69 nailed it ... again, well put.
The earlier vac advance HEI cap offers a rather wide spacing between terminals; a plus when running high output. I finally settled on how to ignite my 71's mild build up ... I've gathered the following: Tach from a 75; freshened, properly-curved GM HEI dist (module removed) from a 79?; MSD cap (low-ohm bush), rotor & external coil adapter; MSD HVC 6600 nascar box; MSD 8250 HVC nascar coil; MSD revlimiter; MSD adjustable rpm switch; Accel 300+ 8.8 sp wires; Accel plugs. Some new/used/free, I've got about $350 in all of it. Now, where to mount it discretely but discreetly? I'm gonna try to mount-wire it so when something fails, I can plug in a complete, discrete spare HEI w/ onboard coil & module. (BTW, I've extra: 2 good used & one NOS Accel tach drive dp dist's & NIB MSD Hi-Vib coil ... if anyone's going that way).
Contrary to those above. I think Lars said it all in a previous paper I found on the forum last night. "Points are cool" . Look up on the forum in the archived section with the creator being Lars. There is a wealth of information in his paper on points vs. HEI.
I believe the best ignition pickup and deliver system would be the Mallory Unilit, or other brand/model of light trigger system. The point is that light is a very slender beam and a cylindrical plastic piece similar to the cardboard from a toilet paper roll has eight thin slits in it which spins around and an electric eye catches the light when it shines through the slit and triggers the pickup module. Since the slit is small it allows a much more precise tuning, and if used with a coil then the coil has more time to re-charge.