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So my car is out for paint and pretty much all the little stuff I have laying around for it is already repainted or new waiting for install accept for the convertible top. So I decided to get working on it. Well as I pulled the old top off, I find the front header had a lot of rust. All but two of the tabs that hold the front tack strip in were gone-rusted away and there are several holes, some several inches long and also some very thin metal in places. I could spend almost $400. for a new header or fix this one.
So I dug the mig out, die grinder, angle grinder with flap disc, wire brushes and some new sheet metal and began repairs. I had to form a new compound radius edge for probably 8 inches on either end and make new tabs to hold the tack strip in. None of this stuff gets seen once the new top is on so my priority was strength and making sure all the holes are filled and the rust is stopped. A little por15 for extra measure over the repaired areas.
So this gets me to my question. The Corvette vendors sell two different tack strip materials. A "Replacement Vinyl" or "Original Cardboard Material"
Which is better or any advantage to one over the other?
The cardboard based tach strips vs. the rubber ones. I just installed a new top on my 70 last year and used the rubber tach strips. They are cheaper and they will work just as well provided you have the proper equipment to shot the staples. The only draw back to the rubber tach strips is you will, and should use a pneumatic stapler to install the top.
Most people that request the cardboard strips are going NCRS. Rubber will work just fine and by the way..... Great job on the repair! Looks nice..
I got lucky, my top hardware was looking brand new.....
is it possible, do they make a tool to cut and restitch a convertible top that overhangs the windows too LO on the sides, without removing it from the car??
I suppose not, tempted to just razor knife it and glue some binding on it...
Deja Vue from the early part of the year on my LT-1 restoration. Over 8 hours spent straightening out my top header frame due to the same steel termite infestation your car encountered. Nice Job
An old guy in my town that does interiors and tops for several of the top collector cars in the nation makes his own (he even has done some of George Barris's cars). He uses wood yardsticks and cuts them to the correct width and glues them in with urethane. He builds them up to the correct height then sands them down and hits them with satin black enamel. I tried that on 2 of the tops I have done and it works fantastic. The wood gives a great "bite" for the staples that you use. I have a 72 vert I am doing this winter and will be using the wood.
Looks good!I have repaired mine as well,but haven't done the tabs yet,there wasn't enough of them left to figure out what to do about them.If you could share some more of that detail,it would be greatly appreciated.
For the tabs I just cut some small pieces of sheet metal and bent them at a 90. There is an inner strip of metal that the original tabs were part of. I used a die grinder and carbide bur to remove the inner lip so the tab could be out to the outer lips inner edge.
After all the rust etc was fixed I ground some clean area with a new CURVE flap disc from PFERD. They have abrasive on the edge and the back side which makes grinding in a channel like these a snap. It also worked great for grinding the welds flat so the tack strip doesn't stick up.
The second tab from the right was an original that I saved for originality. LOL
An old guy in my town that does interiors and tops for several of the top collector cars in the nation makes his own (he even has done some of George Barris's cars). He uses wood yardsticks .
What a perfect solution! The rubber worked OK on mine and I did use a pneumatic stapler, but the second bow eventually started to work loose. I put it up and down a lot. My header was also junk, but I was out of money at that point so I did a similar repair on the front edge. When I do it again (hey, they're dirt cheap tops!), I will buy a new header and use the wood tack strip technique. Thanks!
Wow, after seeing some of the header bar pictures mine was in great shape when I did my top. I used the wood strips because I posed that very same question here a few years ago when my top project started and most said to use the wood strips. I did not want to revist this project so I went with wood. I used a hand staple gun and SS staples.
My top guy said the original tack strips are the best if they are still in decent condition. I used a product called Lab Metal on my top to completly finish the rust repair after welding in all my sheetmetal patches. It worked really well but, you have to start contouring it before it sets up, after hardening it is a PITA! to work with. Link to Lab Metal products: http://www.neverseezproducts.com/lab...ID=22658741522
Remember, Corvettes are fibreglass, they NEVER RUST!