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Like most of us my E brake is useless. I did the new cables and easy stuff, but that didn't work. I'm going to replace the brake shoes and the brake lever between the seats.
Do I have any options on the brake lever? Is there something better, cooler or cheaper?
Once I dig into this project, I'm stuck for the duration.
I don't want to haul it to the shop w/tow truck because I can't finish!
What would be a "Worst Case" and what would I need to fix it?
I have pry bars and a small propane torch, what else might I need?
I remember something about heating and possibly breaking something inside. Will a big chisel do the job?
I want to do this right the first time, but that seldom happens. lol
I remember a forum member needing the new brake shoes arched or fitted to the drum to get any real braking. Is this necessary?
This is looking like a weekend project, I'd like to finish by Sun! lol
Any help or advice before I start making a mess? TIA
From: San Diego - Deep Within The State of CONFUSION!
The only thing I know of is to NOT do what I did - use Stainless brake shoes. They flex more than good steel does and hinder an already poorly working brake. So then - make sure your brake cable is tight and fastened to the frame where it's supposed to be. Make sure your E-brake shoes are adjusted properly and they will work.
If it's a four speed, make sure you leave it in low gear or reverse when parked. If it's an automatic make sure your shift linkage is properly adjusted so it goes all the way into park and engages the parking pawl.
The only thing I know of is to NOT do what I did - use Stainless brake shoes. They flex more than good steel does and hinder an already poorly working brake.
Thanks for the SS info. I'm sure there are some horror stories out there.
I wonder if a wheel puller might be a good thing.
What about the crappy E brake lever. Is there anything better that I can use? I was not impressed w/stk lever!
I will let this run for awhile before I order parts.
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
Start at #22.
Here's a how to http://www.corvettemagazine.com/tech...e-rebuild.html
You might start by trying to adjust at the wheels than adjust the cables. It's rare that the brake shoes are worn out, most likely rusted in place.
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
It might be giving the C3 park brake system too much credit to consider it as a bona fide "E brake", and I'm certainly not the only one who has slipped the trans (manual) into 3rd or 4th and stalled the engine in order to pass an inspection.
These might help...
Last edited by TheSkunkWorks; Nov 11, 2009 at 05:51 PM.
The E brakes suck. I would really like to add a small caliper like Wilwood makes and do away with the mess behind the drum. Then agian mine do work ... as a parking brake. they keep the car where it should be and no more.
The only thing I know of is to NOT do what I did - use Stainless brake shoes. They flex more than good steel does and hinder an already poorly working brake.
When my car was brand new, the E-brake hardly held in the forward direction but it held a lot better in the reverse direction.
When I parked it on a hill of about 5 degrees, I would have to pull the handle with both hands to keep the car in place (manual tranny in neutral) in the forward direction, but repeating in the reverse direction it was no problem.
This was right out of the factory. The E-brake was basically useless. It only gave me grief years later, when after years of storage, the lining swelled and froze the rear wheels solid. I had to use a gear puller to pull off the disk.
But you really need to take the time to adjust them properly. That means taking the car out and driving it and applying the parking brake at different speeds by holding the button on the handle then releasing in order to burnish them in.
Then let them cool off and re-adjust each side. If you follow the instructions in the service manual you should be ok.
BTW, stainless is better than common steel because of the rust problem.
Also, Chevy did not call them emergency brakes, they are parking brakes. Some of the older handles (C2) even had the words parking brake on them.
If I had to rely on these things in an emergency I'd start praying for a miracle.
Here's a how to http://www.corvettemagazine.com/tech...e-rebuild.html
You might start by trying to adjust at the wheels than adjust the cables. It's rare that the brake shoes are worn out, most likely rusted in place.
properly adjusted they work fine in my experience.
In my experience, the stainless shoes are absolutely awesome. Once you get your parking brake system back in order, the trick to keeping it working correctly is to use it. Every time you turn the car off, you pull the handle after you remove the ignition key. That's the only way you'll keep it operating properly. My "parking brake" has never given me any problems. And by the way, if you talk to any veteran owners who've been driving more than 40 years, you'll find that it is a "parking brake" and not an e-brake. They were never meant to stop you in an emergency. Back in the day when most cars had manual trannies, you had to have some way to keep them in one place when turned off. A lot of man. trans. wouldn't hold or would pop out of gear when parked, so you used the parking brake. By the way, the cable in my first car was rusted away, so I carried a "parking brick" in the glove box for daily use.
There is no room at the pinion of a Vette for this. Just set up the stock system correctly. It does work and if setup right will work well.
They list kits for Corvettes. But they have different part #'s for driver v/s passenger side and ubolt v/s straps. That would seem to indicate the intended mounting is the stub axles and not the pinion.
There is no room at the pinion of a Vette for this. Just set up the stock system correctly. It does work and if setup right will work well.
My parking brakes are set up correctly and they're barely useful. I have a 454 manual and I need a good brake for hill starts. I'm looking at this pinion design as a serious solution.
I took a linear actuator (200lb pull) , made a bracket, designed a little circuit & it comes on when I turn off the key & releases when the key is turned on. Took out the parking break lever. So with the key turned off this car will not roll. Was thinking of installing a override swich , but never did
Alan