I am trying to set my timing and I have read Lars paper on timing and got totally lost. I may have ADD or maybe I am too slow. If I hook my timing light up to #1 spark plug, what do i set the dial to on the timing light?

Once I do that, where should i try to get the timing mark on the harmonic balance to line up on the indicator lines on the thingy attached to the engine?

I know that I have to disconnect my vacuum advance. Do I need to adjust my vac advance can at all? It is new.

I have a 350 L48, holly 650, performer intake and everything else is stock. Someone told me I have a cam in there that is not stock. Running long headers back to dual exhaust, not cats. Everything else is stock I think.

My car runs good, just want to make sure it is running right.

Thanks
Dan

 

If you are shooting for a total timing of 36 degrees which is about where you should be set your dial to 36 degrees. When you rev the motor up to check final timing the line on the balancer should line up with the 0 on the timing tab. This will set your total timing.

If you have an adjustable vacuum can you wil have to adjust it. otherwise there is no adjustment on a stock type of can.

 

36 when all your mechanical advance is in(total = initial + mech, no vac).. when you rev the engine, weights in the distributor advance the timing. You have to make sure they are all the way extended by revving the motor, could take up to 4k rpm. I like mine all in by 3k, but you have to rev it till it's all in. You can buy different springs for the weights to have all the advance come in earlier or later. 52 is the goal with the vacuum advance hooked up with all mechanical advance in, some vac pods have an adjustment in the vac line port. Set your timing light to whatever degree you are looking for, then shine it on the timing mark and see how far it is from 0, if it is right on, you are good to go

 

I understand now. Thank you. How can I tell when the weights are totally extended? Will the timing show different on the timing mark when they are extended and when they are not? Thank you.

 

You rev the engine while looking at the timing marks with your light, once the timing stops advancing as you rev the engine higher, you are all in.

 

Exactly. If the car starts OK, just start it then pull the hose off the dist. vacuum can and plug the line (to prevent the vacuum leakage). Set your timing light dialback **** to 36 degrees, then slowly rev the engine until you see the timing mark on the damper move toward the "0" degree mark on the indicator. Once the mark stops moving (while you are increasing rpm's), that indicates that the flyweights/springs have reached their limit inside the distributor. That rpm setting is when the mechanical timing is all in". If the 'all in' mark is not at "0" degrees, adjust the distributor so that it is [at "0"]. Then you have set the max. mech. advance at 36 degrees. Now, if that max. setting occurs later than 3000 rpm, you will need to change the springs on those weights to a 'softer' spring. That will allow the mech. advance to come in sooner. If you make a spring change and the "all in" point occurs earlier than 2600 rpm, you need to use a little 'stronger' spring. You can use two springs that are not the same type, if you are "between" springs when you do your testing. You won't hurt anything by experimenting with mixed springs. Once you find the point where the mech. "all in" point occurs between 2600-3000 rpm, then you can hook the vacuum can back in the system, set your timing light to 0 on the dialback, and read what timing is at idle. If it is somewhere between 8-16 degrees, lock everything down and take it for a drive (safe, no traffic area). I prefer to be in second gear (manual or auto) and going about 25-30 mph; then put the pedal down [WOT] and see how it runs up to a mild shift point (don't 'red-line' the engine for this test). If you get no 'pinging' [pre-ignition] during that acceleration test, you could even increase timing a degree or two (if you want). If you do get any pinging, just back off the advance a couple of degrees and test it again.

One final comment...once you add the dist. vacuum advance back into the system, the idle timing should not be more than 16 degrees {for most engines}. If it is, you need to adjust your advance can to limit the amount of timing it can 'add' or you need to replace that can with another than has less timing in its calibration. This is unlikely to be an issue, but I thought you should know what to do if it occurs.

 

I am timing smart now. or at least a little more knowledgeable. Thanks for the help. Noreaster is finally gone and the sun is out. I am going for a drive!