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I'm building a 383 stroker and just finished up installing the pistons and for the next step I want to check my piston to valve clearance. I read the various methods used and want to go with the clay method.
I am using hydraulic retro roller lifters and know that the valve springs will collapse the lifters so I was thinking of using lite test springs on the heads for the test. I will put clay on the piston, oil on the valves so the clay does not stick and install the test gasket, head and all valve train components and adjust the rockers so the push rod just encounters resistance, not to collapse the lifter. Rotate the engine two times past TDC and disassemble and measure.
Does anyone see a problem with this method, especially using the lite springs to avoid lifter collapse?
What are your cam specs and what do your piston valve reliefs look like. Modern forgings even JE SRP's have more than enough clearance for up to .700 lift and over 250 Duration.
on H-lifters I just tighten them down to take out the plunger pump up and rotate the motor with a dial indicator on the rocker to ensure that it is getting the advertised lift.
I personally have never used lighter test springs to measure stuff. I have used breakin springs on monster racing roller cams at the shop
The pistons are KB flat tops with 2 valve reliefs and the Cam is a Comp XR 270 HR. Heads are Vortec 062 castings. The lift if I remember correctly is like .51
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
I use light test springs from Comp or Crane, they are 10 bucks. You only need to do one cylinder.
I don't bother with the gasket when I put the head on, just add the compressed thickness to you measurements or don't even bother doing that for more of a safety margin.
You put the test springs on the valves and get a dial indicator and set it on one side of the retainer. You rotate the motor slowly pressing down on the valve with you finger each time you rotate it a bit and looking at the dial indicator as the readings get smaller and smaller.
Don't worry about TDC or specific degree, where the piston is closest to the valve whether intake or exhaust is way off TDC to each side.
Once the dial indicator starts to read higher and higher you know you have passed the PtV clearance. Rotate again and try and make sure you have the correct reading.
Minimum .100" for exhaust and .080" for intake. To be honest I don't think you have anything to worry about but I would do it on any motor I built. My 427ci with .640" lift has more than enough PtV clearance
What if you then find a bit too tight valve to piston clearance..what are the options? Just remove material from pistons or thicker gasket or change cam base timing or?? And any disadvantakes of the option schosen?
The pistons are KB flat tops with 2 valve reliefs and the Cam is a Comp XR 270 HR. Heads are Vortec 062 castings. The lift if I remember correctly is like .51
I off hand think that you might have a compression problem. How many cc's are those Vortec heads?
VESA - the only true option is piston valve relief machining. KB flat tops just have a couple of half *** notches and claying is the correct method to check them
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Originally Posted by gkull
I off hand think that you might have a compression problem. How many cc's are those Vortec heads?
VESA - the only true option is piston valve relief machining. KB flat tops just have a couple of half *** notches and claying is the correct method to check them
If you are saying the valve reliefs on the KB's are not done well and can vary from piston to piston I would agree, one piston might be OK and the another the valve might hit the side of the relief. With the bigger valves on the small block heads now ( mine are 2.100" ) you have to be carefull. On good forged pistons I like doing it my way.
Last edited by MotorHead; Nov 18, 2009 at 03:12 PM.
The heads are 64cc. I know the compression will be way up there. I calculated about 10:3. As long as I can run on premium pump gas I will be fine.
MotorHead,
Thanks for the info. Looks like a good procedure but I really want to clay them out to be sure.
So, going back to my original question, does anybody see a problem with the procedure and especially using a test spring to avoid llifter compression?
I used that method to check mine, I sprayed PAM on the piston and a little on the valve for the sticking issue. I also went to the hardware store and bought a spring that I customized a little to get good valve seat but not so much pressure to collapse the lifter. I then found it took very, very little to collapse the lifter and was worried I'd be getting bad info so I bought a solid lifter and used that instead. Seemed to work out fine for me.
Thanks guys! I guess I will give it a try and see.
I just wanted to see if this procedure would be valid with a test spring. If I get real close piston to valve clearance then I will look into it better.