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I need to remove/replace pilot bearing in the end of the crank. Is there a tool for this?? Can I just heat up the crank to loosen the bearing?? Engine is in the car.
Fill bushing with grease and drive in a metal shaft the same size as inside diameter of bushing and it will come out. Do not heat. Some of the other guys may know a better way. mds...
Fill bushing with grease and drive in a metal shaft the same size as inside diameter of bushing and it will come out. Do not heat. Some of the other guys may know a better way. mds...
This a good method and I use it if I want to remove the bushing without damage to it for measurements. Otherwise I have a big bolt that I run in with my impact and it pushes the bushing out.
I need to remove/replace pilot bearing in the end of the crank. Is there a tool for this?? Can I just heat up the crank to loosen the bearing?? Engine is in the car.
YES, There is a tool for this and it is called a "pilot bushing removing tool" The other method with grease can work....but I purchased this tool along with the bushing installer so it is a snap. If you are replacing the bushing with the solid bronze design....make sure that a magnet will NOT stick to it. Some of these bushings have iron in them and that is bad. It should be like the oil impregnated bushing like the factory. On cars that came with them...I replace them with the same design....and NOT the needle bearing design...which came later. Professional opinion naturally.
"DUB"
YES, There is a tool for this and it is called a "pilot bushing removing tool" The other method with grease can work....but I purchased this tool along with the bushing installer so it is a snap. If you are replacing the bushing with the solid bronze design....make sure that a magnet will NOT stick to it. Some of these bushings have iron in them and that is bad. It should be like the oil impregnated bushing like the factory. On cars that came with them...I replace them with the same design....and NOT the needle bearing design...which came later. Professional opinion naturally.
"DUB"
And be careful about driving the bushing in too far. There is a small step inside,don't drive the bearing in over the step or you will reduce the ID which will make it too tight on the input shaft and cause it to try and seize. I usually leave the bushing out about 1/8".
Fill bushing with grease and drive in a metal shaft the same size as inside diameter of bushing and it will come out. Do not heat. Some of the other guys may know a better way. mds...
Don't do this if you have a LS1 or similar engine. The plug at the end of the crank will unseat and there will be a massive oil leak.
And be careful about driving the bushing in too far. There is a small step inside,don't drive the bearing in over the step or you will reduce the ID which will make it too tight on the input shaft and cause it to try and seize. I usually leave the bushing out about 1/8".
I'm installing a T-45RS from Keisler and the directions say that the needle pilot bearing needs to installed 1/8" inside the step. My bearing is brand new, only installed last summer, and I only wanted to move it in the 1/8". It's presently flush with the lip. I'm trying not to beat on it to much!! The little bugger won't move!!
I'm installing a T-45RS from Keisler and the directions say that the needle pilot bearing needs to installed 1/8" inside the step. My bearing is brand new, only installed last summer, and I only wanted to move it in the 1/8". It's presently flush with the lip. I'm trying not to beat on it to much!! The little bugger won't move!!
Are you saying its flush with the end of the crankshaft ?
The lip I'm referring to is inside the crank opening about .750 deep.
If you have your bearing driven in flush with the end of the crank you might be bottomed out on the lip I'm referring to.
Are you saying its flush with the end of the crankshaft ?
The lip I'm referring to is inside the crank opening about .750 deep.
If you have your bearing driven in flush with the end of the crank you might be bottomed out on the lip I'm referring to.
No, I believe we're talking about the same lip. It's flush with that. I'm sure it's got some room to move in 1/8".
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
If it's in there tight like mine usually are I find the easiest way to get it out is to take it to a machine shop and have them do it, the job can get real nasty fast
If you are going to use grease, make sure the driving rod is tight to the ID.
Otherwise you are going to be cleaning grease from your eye, face, etc.
Pilot bearing tool...
I agree... and for this reason I like to use a wooden dowel. If it's a little tight, just sand it down until it fits snugly into the pilot bearing. I've done it this way many times with no problems thus far.
I'm installing a T-45RS from Keisler and the directions say that the needle pilot bearing needs to installed 1/8" inside the step. My bearing is brand new, only installed last summer, and I only wanted to move it in the 1/8". It's presently flush with the lip. I'm trying not to beat on it to much!! The little bugger won't move!!
Please follow our directions when installing the pilot bearing. Depending on motor and bell combinations, the pilot may or may not be installed flush with the face of the crank (as it is normally). The T45's are special and sometimes, the pilot must be installed lower than the face of the crank while other times, it is 1/8" sticking out past the flush face of the crank.
Do not go by what people on here are telling you. Follow our instructions or call me.
By the way.... the best method I have found for removing a pilot bearing or bushing is to use a few slices of bread and a plastic clutch alignment tool. Much like the poster above who mentioned using grease, take small peices of bread and using the alignment tool, cram it into the back of the crank. Keep cramming it in, until it forces the bushing/bearing out of the crank. It works just like the grease trick but is not as messy.
[QUOTE=TopGunn;1572288892]Asuming you have a bronze pilot bearing take a large bolt as shown below and cut a few gooves in it with a Dremmel tool or even a hack saw. Nothing fancy it just helps threading into the bronze. Then screw it into the pilot, when the bolt reaches the end of the crank it'll push the pilot out like butter.
No screwing around with grease all over the place spattering in your face.
Asuming you have a bronze pilot bearing take a large bolt as shown below and cut a few gooves in it with a Dremmel tool or even a hack saw. Nothing fancy it just helps threading into the bronze. Then screw it into the pilot, when the bolt reaches the end of the crank it'll push the pilot out like butter.
No screwing around with grease all over the place spattering in your face.
That looks just like my bolt. But I think the OP is using a needle bearing.
Ha ha ha ....No, there is nothing funny when it comes to installing one of our kits, not following directions and then end up having it cost you even more.
If you would've bothered to include my entire "quote" in your quote, everything I said, would've made sense.
The T45 kit is not like your Muncie's where the bushing is installed flush with the crank, not in all cases. RIF.