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I’m thinking about converting my point’s style distributer to an electronic system. I know that there are several different kits out there to do this. Anyone have any advice on the best one or any pros and cons? Originality is no longer an issue, just ease of maintenance. 1970, 350/300 with mechanical tach.
determine if you need a tach drive or not.
I got a HEI/ w Tach drive, "Dragon Fire" from ebay new for about $100
drop it in and never worry about iginiton again.
determine if you need a tach drive or not.
I got a HEI/ w Tach drive, "Dragon Fire" from ebay new for about $100
drop it in and never worry about iginiton again.
I really don't want to change the tach. It seems to be working without any problems. I was just thinking about putting in one of those kits that replaces the points and condensor.
Opps, I'mgetting where I can't read anymore. Are the new distributers with electronic and tach drive a better value than a kit?
You can keep your old distributor if you still need the tach drive, and only buy an electronic conversion module ( Mallory, MSD ),
assuming your stock distributor is still in good condition...
New distributors with mechanical tach drive are rare, so it will narrow your choices and they are often more expensive then others...
Last edited by 73StreetRace; Nov 25, 2009 at 01:17 AM.
Well, I have to go back to work. Thanks for the info. I like the idea of keeping the distributor looking original even though the car is not completely NOS.
I hope that everyone has a great Turkey Day!
73StreetRace... try and dig up some turkey for dinner over there!
Well, I have to go back to work. Thanks for the info. I like the idea of keeping the distributor looking original even though the car is not completely NOS.
I hope that everyone has a great Turkey Day!
73StreetRace... try and dig up some turkey for dinner over there!
Happy Turkey Day !
Last edited by 73StreetRace; Nov 25, 2009 at 07:26 AM.
Crane is under bankruptcy or reorganization at present and you cannot buy the Crane electronic ignition units right now. They had a model that was "plug 'n' play" for the early '70s Chevys which used the resistor wire in the harness [instead of the balast resistor on the firewall] and does not need full 12 volts. Most of the other electronic conversions require full 12v supply which you will have to get from your fuse block (the power feed wire to the coil on your '70 has the 'harness resistor wire'). Also, once you have electronic ignition, you can increase the spark potential by replacing your stock coil with a high-voltage coil (also built to accept full 12v. supply). If you do, you may have to change plug wires and set a wider gap to the plugs (.045" instead of .035").
I forgot to mention the Dragon Fire uses a standard GM Module,
you can aways get a replacement module anywhere.
thats why I choose mine, these come with Tach drive too.
The OEM points setup is very good if it is all new and properly setup. I used to fry a set of points in a weekend at the dragstrip back in the 70's. Looked like someone was in there with a spot welder zapping the point contact surfaces. The dual points were better for high rpm's but more difficult to setup and still require periodic maintainance. Went to HEI in the early 80's. I love my Tach drive MSD and 6ALN box. Zero issues or problems in many years of use but is probably overkill. Get the pertronics setup. Cheap, easy, looks stock, wider plug gap and stronger spark for more complete combustion. While you are at it set up your advance curve to get your mechanical all in by 3000 RPM. See timing link at the top of the page.
I put in an MSD tach drive, MSD 6AL, replaced the ballast wire and never looked back. Runs excellent and the dizzy fits under my shielding with no modifications. Very strong spark(s). The only giveaway is that you can see the MSD box under my passenger fender above the washer bottle. i love the way I now have a rev limiter also - great for both break in and normal operation.
Points do work well when all in good shape & tune; when dist in good shape & system has proper ballast, they don't require constant maintenance.
There were tach drive HEI on fleabay in last few days for UNDER $80 ... cheap enough.
Absolute stealth electronics is Breakerless SE (we put one in a nice 68 SS Camaro) it uses only the single original points dist wire ... it's relatively pricey http://www.lectriclimited.com/breakerless_se.htm
Points do work well when all in good shape & tune; when dist in good shape & system has proper ballast, they don't require constant maintenance.
There were tach drive HEI on fleabay in last few days for UNDER $80 ... cheap enough.
Absolute stealth electronics is Breakerless SE (we put one in a nice 68 SS Camaro) it uses only the single original points dist wire ... it's relatively pricey http://www.lectriclimited.com/breakerless_se.htm
I've had one of those on my '69 for about 3 years now. It was easy to install and has worked fine for me. Yes it's pricey, but I like the one wire hookup, looks completely stock.
I put in an MSD tach drive, MSD 6AL, replaced the ballast wire and never looked back. Runs excellent and the dizzy fits under my shielding with no modifications. Very strong spark(s). The only giveaway is that you can see the MSD box under my passenger fender above the washer bottle. i love the way I now have a rev limiter also - great for both break in and normal operation.
Of course, I kept the original dizzy and tag!
Where could you hide the MSD box? I've heard of people hiding it in the battery compartment, but that seems like a tight fit.
YEap I have my MSD box in on of the compartments behind the seats. I have the MSD hooked up with my points still installed. The points now only act as a switch and seem to last quite a long time. Works pretty good.
Check out How to Build High-Performance Ignition Systems (S-A Design) for a wiring diagram. I am overseas right now and can't post it here. Suffice to say that it works and allows me to use the stock dist that has been recurved by Lars. I use Accel points.
I bought a points and condenser replacement kit in the early '70's from of all places, Montgomery Ward. Cost all of $20. It is a hall-effect sensor that mounts in place of the points. Condenser is not needed anymore. There is a trigger wheel that mounts under the distributor rotor that provides the on-off signal to the coil. Nothing fancy. No extra hot spark, no multiple spark capability. Just does away with the mechanical points problems. I shift my punched out 283 at 7 grand...never had a miss caused by this kit in over 35 years.
Recently I installed a Vertex magneto I had laying around unused. But not because the points eliminator kit stopped working.
Last edited by 69 Chevy; Nov 29, 2009 at 11:56 AM.
i will look into the petronix 2. i did not know it would work with the msd 6al box. my tach is bouncing around alot when i rev it up and let off the gas. i bought a new cable. if that fixes the problem i will use the petronix if not, then off to fleabay for a new tach drive hei. will have to wait and see when the new motor gets back in.