Having problems with my 72 starting after it has been running/driven for awhile. If you let the car sit for awhile and cool down it will start up. I've got a small block 350 with the 400 automatic transmission, it has shorty headers with flow master completing the exhaust sytem. As with any C3 it tends to get a little warm under the hood so i took the precaution of wrapping the starter and solenoid in a heat reducing blanket the best i could , doesn't seem to have helped much I have had the starter out a couple of times to have it checked at the local shop and each time it gets a clean bill of health! I'm at my wits end, as sitting at the store for 45 min to an hour is no fun! I'm sure i'm not the first one to have this problem, any suggestions for a solution accepted!

On another note about starting the car, i've noticed lately each time the vette is started a noise (tatatatatatatata) as the engine is turning over but car starts. At times, it turns over very slowly at the same time it is making the noise, its as if there is not enough power from the battery to start, but it starts. I've had the battery checked and had an electrician check the wiring from the battery, the starter, and the ignition module as i've swithced to electronic ignition and everything checks fout fine! Any ideas?

 

Bad solenoid

 

Would the bad solenoid also cause the slow turnover of the engine? Is there an aftermarket solenoid that is better than replacement parts, if so what is the brand and where is the best place to get one?

 

When the solenoid is activated it connects the battery to the starter basically. When it's worn it doesn't make a good connection, so it can cause the starter not to turn as fast or at all. If you had the starter tested while hot, I bet it wouldn't pass the testing at your parts store.

I'd probably just replace the starter/solenoid assembly if it were me, unless I was trying to keep it all numbers matching. I don't know of a higher quality solenoid, I believe you can still get them separately though.. 15, 20 bucks I imagine.

If it weren't for the hard hot starting, I'd say the battery was low or the connections weren't good.

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1750/

move the solenoid away from the headers

 

Had this problem similar on '74 Coupe w/crate motor installed by previous owner . Hard to start when warm; I discovered ground cable
frame to engine was finger tight and pretty dirty . I cleaned it up and properly cinched it down.. end of problem .

 

On the stock starter the solenoid is mounted on top, if using this relocation kit what becomes of the solenoid on the starter? Currently all the wires go to the solenoid, if you use this solenoid and there is no solenoid on the starter how does power get to the starter? There would still have to be wiring that would run by the headers and collect the heat possibly causing wiring problems? I'm not doubting this works, just trying to understand how so i can decide if this is the best fix for the problem. I don't want to keep having to replace solenoids every 6 months or so.

 

I agree! Make sure that the battery + and - are tight, then clean and re-tighten the - connection at the frame and then the + at the starter and also the frame to motor ground wire.
The solenoid and be purchased separately if the above fails to help.

 

I think it may be a carburation problem. The heat may be boiling the fuel, making the fuel mixture hard to regulate. That results in flooding or lean conditions and time consuming starts. Look at the float level in each bowl, see what you can do. Maybe a heat spacer between intake and carburator. If all else fails, buy a fresh, high amp battery so you can crank it until it eventually starts.

 

You have a bad ground!....and its located underneath the battery attached to the transmission cross member...No one ever cleans that paticular connection because its under the middle of the car...Clean that sucker and your hard starts will probably go away immediately....

You know its not the starter because you have already removed it and had it checked twice..the second time because your of the opinion the starter is bad..they proved its not...

Your car is attempting to seek ground wherever it can...brake lines, shift cables or anything else.....and will at times crank slow...clean that negative battery cable under the car....

 

First thing i did was check all the connections and they are tight. The Negative cable to the crossmember was so bad a i replaced it with a new one plus replaced the positive cable as well a couple of years ago. Thanks.
Grew up in Taylor, went to Truman High! Small world.

 

Replace solenoid and use a short spring.

 

Do a search. I answer this question weekly. Look in my signature link for the $15 JC Whitney heat shield that i installed and will swear by.

With shorty headers Heat Soak is very likey. What did u do with the stock heat shield?

Wraps only hold the heat in once the starter/solenoid heats up. Think thermodynamics here. U need a small air gap between (no matter how small) between shield and solenoid/stater for convection to carry hot air/heat away.

Don't get fooled into "adding" another "remote" solenoid. This is only for people that can't understand current flow in a very simple electrical circuit. Yes the original solenoid is still there and still does all the work - kicking out the bendix gear and making up the contactor to provide current to the starter motor. FORD can use a "remote" solenoid because of the design of thier starter uses permanent magnents inside (don't go there).

Hope this helps and please spread the word,
cardo0

 

Is your Signature Link the same thing as your profile (clicking on cardo0 on the thread)? I cannot figure out where the pictures are that you referenced in a 2006 thread on the JCW heat shield.

 

Sorry for the late reply. Use this link and step through the pix: http://members.cardomain.com/cardo0

Hope this helps,
cardo0

 

If you have a quick disconnect you should check that it hasn't be arcing and now it's tight but not getting a good connection. Happened to me and didn't realize until I got a few new parts with no changes.

 

Thanks. Put the order in today - $21.99 with free shipping.

 

U will need to modify the mounting holes somewhat - use some bendology to fit it up. The important thing is an air gap between starter and shield. I got mine to nearly a 1/4" air space in most places (some areas only 1/8").

Good luck,
cardo0

 

Your pictures will be a big help. Between those and the picture in JCW, it looked like the shield was going to spend a little time in the vice.

 

Hi guys. I'm having the same problem and i found this on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mr-Ga...ht_2893wt_1165

Is it a good product??

Thanks.
Paolo