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Hi I have a freind with a '71 C3 that I am helping with some repairs.
He complains about loose steering, so I take a look it has new A-arm bushings,power steering ram,tierod ends,idler arm etc...and a newer looking power steering valve. The ball stud on the valve has lots of slop in it. I say its shot....he talks to someone he knows that claims it is normal and will go away when eninge is running and has pressure on it. Is this correct? This sounds insane to me. That is the only play I can find anywhere. Steering box is good and snug too.
sounds like the worm and sector needs adjustment or the steering box is dead....plenty of slop in a power steer car with the engine off.....grab the rag joint (engine off) and see how much play you have before the pittman arm starts to move...should be minimal..good luck
Hi I have a freind with a '71 C3 that I am helping with some repairs.
he talks to someone he knows that claims it is normal and will go away when eninge is running and has pressure on it. Is this correct? This sounds insane to me. That is the only play I can find anywhere. Steering box is good and snug too.
Steering box is full of grease we topped it off and it has minimal play. If the preload screw is tightened 1/2 turn in it starts to bind so we backed it off some. Seemed to be aligned with colmn.
The ball stud will have a lot of play with the engine off. It may be too loose though. Jim Shea will have the adjustment procedure for it.
Have you checked the rag joint?
There isn't any adjustment for the ball stud. The only adjustment on the control valve is to balance the valve so that it doesn't force the ram to one side or the other. If there is excessive movement it would be due to worn components in which case the valve would have to be rebuilt. There have been many discussions about control valves and it seems that some of the rebuilt units don't work all that well. There are 2 halves to the valve - roughly a 'dry' side and a 'wet' side. I bet some rebuilders throw the $20.00 seal kit in the wet side and don't replace the more expensive components in the dry side, where the ball stud is. The only way to know for sure is to take the valve apart. Buy a seal kit at least, and buy the ball stud kit if needed after the valve is inspected. I know Zip sells both kits and other vendors probably do as well.
I was just web browsing and stumbled on mid america motorworks site tech sheet.It shows a ball stud adjusting nut #20 accessable by removing the valve head. http://content.mamotorworks.com/pdf/602456.pdf
That 'slop' in the ball stud [P/S control valve] is how the unit senses the steering input need. There is a short coil spring next to the ball stud mechanism which allows that movement. If that movement wasn't allowed, the P/S wouldn't know which way to turn.
I was just web browsing and stumbled on mid america motorworks site tech sheet.It shows a ball stud adjusting nut #20 accessable by removing the valve head. http://content.mamotorworks.com/pdf/602456.pdf
That's not really meant for adjustment. During assembly the nut is screwed all the way in and then backed off enough to insert the sleeve key (#19). #25 & #28 are the items that wear down and require replacement. You can see wear on the ball stud and grooving in the sleeve bearing. There is one kit that covers #1-18 and another that covers #19-30 (without #26 & #27).
Steering box is full of grease we topped it off and it has minimal play. If the preload screw is tightened 1/2 turn in it starts to bind so we backed it off some. Seemed to be aligned with colmn.
To align box and column, turn wheel all the way to the left or right. Count the number of turns to turn to opposite side. Turn wheel half the total distance. this should center the steering gear. At this point check alignment to steering column. The bolt on the rag joint on the steering column should be pointing straight down. Check toe-in and see if it is still correct.
Sloppy steering is NOT normal. Best learn how the PS control valve works, then you'll understand why the free play is there.
Actually I rebuilt a few of these and understand how they work. Pretty cude actually.I plan on removing the valve head and reset the ball stud preload. 1/4" movement seems like too much to me. I just put one on my '81 and it has minimal movement about 1/8 total and works great!
The valve on my 1981 was purchased in rebuilt condition. It was cheaper that way $80 It needed ball kit and seal kit, so I went that way. The few I rebuilt worked great. The steering felt slightly tighter, but gorked great.