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The general thought is an 18 x 10, 5.5" backspace with a 285/40 tire, narrowed steel rear spring and relocated e-brake bracket (This set up has the wheel and tire within the wheel arch and no mods to frame rail, you will have to loose the rear sway bar)
I had this set up and it works (as do a number of other forum members).
Last edited by lvrpool32; Dec 4, 2009 at 10:38 PM.
anything more and you will need to go outside the wheel well and add flares or cut the frame. i am running this set up in these sizes and everything fits inside perfectly with no sway bar. i am using a dual mount comp spring in place of the swaybar.
Figure on running a 9.5 Inch Rim with a 275 Tire and it will be inside the fender. If You want to go wider then plan on Frame narowing along with Mini Tubing. Sounds like You might go with Flares and if so You can go as wide as You want.
The general thought is an 18 x 10, 5.5" backspace with a 285/40 tire, narrowed steel rear spring and relocated e-brake bracket (This set up has the wheel and tire within the wheel arch and no mods to frame rail, you will have to loose the rear sway bar)
I had this set up and it works (as do a number of other forum members).
Appreciate the feedback, the 18*10, 5.5 BSP sounds like the favored set-up. The Offsets alread have the e-bracket on top, but why the narrowed rear spring? Are you referring to the double offset TA's?
No, single offset trailing arms. With that much backspace the wheel gets very close to the spring (it all depends on ride height, tire size etc etc) For 18" wheels the spring may even be inside the wheel when the cars is on all four wheels.
The spring only needs to be narrowed about 1" and is not too big of a job for the DIY mechanic (steel, NOT composite) (must 'vette suspension places sell shortened springs anyway)
i would like more traction as im sure most would also. im not sure how much extra traction fatter tires actually give you if any but i would like to know?
i still have to baby it through all of 1st and most of 2nd when i make ford drivers sad at the lights.
the wheels im running are eagle alloys. i know for sure they are 15 x 10
now dont quote me on the rest of this but i think they are 3,3/4 BS
Last edited by gingerbreadman1977; Dec 8, 2009 at 12:10 AM.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
The stock trailing arm curves in as it approaches the pivot point in the frame. This allows an 18 inch rim to fit and no narrowed spring. My 18x9.5 in rim fits fine with 285/40/18 inch tires with 5 inch bs and don't stick out either. Basically I just took stock rims off and put these on .
They are actually exactly flush with the fender opening
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
MotorHead, maybe you've explained before, but why so much height? Do you have that much of a ground clearance issue where you drive, or is that to keep the tires from hitting the fenders when it squats?
gingerbreadman1977, suspect your BS is a good bit more than 3.75" from what we can see, as the 15x10x3.375" BS w/295's I removed from another C3 needed flares by a fair amount...
gingerbreadman1977, suspect your BS is a good bit more than 3.75" from what we can see, as the 15x10x3.375" BS w/295's I removed from another C3 needed flares by a fair amount...
i cant say for sure skunkworks cause i have never measured up or looked into it. its just one of those things that they fit and dont rub so havent given it a second thought - i would like to know but .
i went to the eagle alloys site just then to see if i can find out anything and here is the specification sheet on the 117 series that i have. it seems all of them are 3,3/4 BS
The spring only needs to be narrowed about 1" and is not too big of a job for the DIY mechanic (steel, NOT composite) (must 'vette suspension places sell shortened springs anyway)
You can order shortened composit springs from VBP, probably van steel also. I have a shortened composite from VBP.
Also, Eastwood makes a plastic tool. Remove a wheel and bolt the tool on. It has an adjustable arm to simulate 15, 16,17,18, etc inch wheels and also it can be adjusted to simulate a rim width and back spacing. Then just spin the hub and attached tool. If it clears the frame and fender you kow the wheel will fit. I think it costs $89.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Originally Posted by TheSkunkWorks
MotorHead, maybe you've explained before, but why so much height? Do you have that much of a ground clearance issue where you drive, or is that to keep the tires from hitting the fenders when it squats?
I can lower it and have had it lower before but it is a pain in azz as far as I am concerned, you have to worry about speed bumps, turning into driveways, parking lots even dips in the road. I am happy the way it is, I can drive it over rail road tracks the same speed as I drive my work truck
And I did lower it a little bit since those pics
Last edited by MotorHead; Dec 9, 2009 at 08:37 PM.