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Need help with Cost Estimate Exterior Work

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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 03:33 AM
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Default Need help with Cost Estimate Exterior Work

I am seriously considering purchasing this car but am trying to guesstimate costs. Specifically what it will cost to fix this car's exterior appearance.

I know I need a new big block hood (about 1k), new front grill trim, one side sill (drivers side). I know I need to remove the passengers side mirror, and probably get a new drivers side as it doesn't look original. I will remove the rear rack and fill those holes. I need two rally caps, and need to repaint the wheels back to silver. I could figure the cost on this stuff. But it does look that the car had a minor hit to the driver side front as the chrome is a little off and the hood doesn't quite fit right. The car is originally riverside gold. I will not be doing any body work or paint myself (besides easy work like removal of chrome, sills, painting the wheels, changing the incorrect antenna).

What do you guys think, if anyone can help out with guesstimates on cost and brake it out, (for example prep work, paint, parts).

The car is an L68 and the engine and trans are supposed to be correct and not restamped. The price is low but will only be good if repair costs are not extravagant.

Thanks in advance.





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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 08:58 AM
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$10-12 grand easy if you want a nice job and there's nothing else major.
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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 09:18 AM
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Actually, $12K might not be enough to get that "puppy" into decent shape. Now, if you can do all of the body and paint work, that makes a big difference. The grille work on that car will run you $1000 . Yes, that much; they are pretty hard to come by. [That's why they're missing now.] The rocker panels are wrong and are about $300 to replace, The hood doesn't fit too well; if you pay $1000 for a 'real' BB hood...in good condition...it can be made to fit much better. If you buy a reman hood, it won't fit well without lots of work.

Now, that hasn't even addressed the mechanical aspect of that car. With a car that "rough" on the outside, what's the chance that the mechanicals are in good shape? Nearly ZERO, I would imagine. How's the interior? How's the frame for rust?

IF the frame/birdcage are not rusted out...and IF the mechanical stuff [engine, tranny, brakes, suspension, steering, engine accessories] are all functional and seem OK...and IF the interior doesn't have to be replaced...and IF you can do the body and paint work, that car may be worth $3000. Is that what you were asking?
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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
that car may be worth $3000. Is that what you were asking?
$3,000? The L68 tri-power setup alone is worth close to that! Plus an original 427 block and heads add another $2,000.


Yes it will cost $10K -12K to fix and paint.

Last edited by RobRace10; Dec 4, 2009 at 09:59 AM.
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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 10:40 AM
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What do you want to do with the car? Have a nice driver? Bloomington or NCRS? How much of the work can you do yourself?

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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 11:31 AM
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Thanks for the quick responses. I am not looking for Bloomington or NCRS, I already have a Survivor quality 70 LT-1. I was thinking of picking this up, fixing it up to look decent and actually driving it and keeping it forever, as it is the big block I always wanted.

The interior is actually not as bad as the exterior, there are some things wrong (like the radio is not correct). There is no rust as it is a black plate california car. In addition to that it has Power Brakes, Windows and Tilt Column. It also has A/C and TI. It is a very well optioned car.

Supposedly the engine "runs strong". The car is only 1.5 hours from me and I can go see it Tomorrow.




Thanks again.
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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 11:36 AM
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Forgot to mention I am not looking to get a 10k paint job, assuming the car was close to paint ready (which I am not saying this car is) I would have gone with a 3-5k paint job. In Los Angeles there are a surplus of painters who are hurting for work. So I would shop around buy my own quality paint, strip the chrome and sills and deliver the car as ready as I can get it with my limited skills.

I really appreciate the forum's help.
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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 12:26 PM
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A big cost of paint is fixing what is wrong with the front clip. If you can do the work yourself the cost goes way down. Figure $55 an hour for repairs at a minimum from a reasonable body shop.

If it doesn't have any serious rust issues go for it if the price is right in your mind.
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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 02:50 PM
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The lack of rust, the decent interior, and the functioning mechanicals (check them out well) is good news for this car. If you can do all of the prep work for paint (strip, fill, sand, prime, etc.), then that will save a ton of money. The car looks to be a decent 'project' car...or maybe a little better than that. I just thought you should consider all the issues before you jumped for this one. I hope you find that it is in as good a condition as you think. Be objective when you look it over; go at it with the mind-set that you aren't going to buy it unless the review convinces you otherwise. Good luck.
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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 03:10 PM
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Another thought, I see that you live in CA as I. The state of CA is trying to outlaw solvent based paints, and making shops only using water based paints. There is a big difference with a solvent based paint vs water.....
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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 03:24 PM
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That old girl might not look half bad after the paint was rubbed out.

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