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engine won't fire...think I checked everything

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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 07:21 AM
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Default engine won't fire...think I checked everything

Hey guys I have a stock 350 longblock in my 82 Corvette and need some input. This engine was a fresh rebuild (heads and block) so it was a brand new piece.

I had a TPI set up on this car about a year ago and one day while trying to datalog it died on me and I could never get it to start. It was like it wasn't getting any gas....it would turn over but it wouldn't fire.

I checked all the normal stuff, timing, spark, fuel..etc everything looked good.

1. I had spark at the coil and the cylinders (new wires and plugs)

2. Fuel pressure was fine

3. I re-timed it several times according to the TPI camaro manual and info from this site, pulled #1 plug and had my wife bump the starter with my thumb on the hole until I got a "woosh" of air from the cylinder.

I manually turned the engine a short turn to TDC (it was almost there) and pointed the distributor rotor towards the #1 plug and tried to fire the engine again.

No luck

I then pulled all the TPI stuff back off and sold it because I was so aggravated. I never could get it to run right since I put it on anyways.

So I installed a carb intake back on the engine along with a fairly new Holley street avenger 570 carb. I also put a mech fuel pump back on the block and tightened everything down. I also put on a new vacuum advanced distributor.

I then re-set the timing like described above.....same problems, turns over but won't fire.

So my question is: What could be wrong here? I had to set my valve lash when I installed the heads, could it be possible that they are too tight causing the exhaust to dump at the wrong time? I used Lars tech paper, but I'm paranoid and could have overtightened a little or did this wrong....but it ran fine for a little while, heck I even drove to a show in town.

Could improper valve adjustment cause an engine not to start? This is the only thing I can think of but am open to any suggestions.
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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 07:35 AM
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If the valve lash was to tight you'd get no compression, so no firing.

This would be fairly obvious though as the engine would spin over much quicker than normal.

What colour is the spark at the plug, is it yellow or bright blue?
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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 07:46 AM
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... it ran fine for a little while, heck I even drove to a show in town. ...
How long since it ran? Check that carb accel. pump is pumping gas in. Check by pulling a wire at a spark plug for strong spark to ground.
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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 07:56 AM
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Have you checked for fuel at the carb? Squirting when you move the throttle? Did you install the fuel pump rod? Try advancing the timing a bit, turn the vac advance towards the carb half an inch or so. I always set the lash with the engine running, but you aren't at that point yet. Did you prime the oil pump? Pump up the lifters by spinning the motor or priming the oil pump, then reset the lash. Just trying to think of all the things I would do.. good luck
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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 11:37 AM
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Has the engine ever run with the current block and heads? If not, is the cam installed correctly or maybe 180 out.
Also, as a quick check of valve lash, typically there should be 4 threads showing above the adjusting nut on a stock SB.
Gary
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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 11:48 AM
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OK now, I'm going 'back to basics' here so please don't take this as a dig or an insult. But which spark plug are you using for #1? If timing and such is done referencing the wrong cylinder, not much will happen.

Is there power to the coil, and have you verified spark? Engine TDC on Compression Stroke, is the ign rotor pointing to #1 on the cap?
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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Duke94
Has the engine ever run with the current block and heads? If not, is the cam installed correctly or maybe 180 out.

Gary
It ran for a little while and then quite while I was messing with it. I can get it to fire for a brief second now and it dies. I did notice the water pump pulley appeared to be touching the HB pulley with no gap. That could be something that could have cause it to jump time on the timing chain.

I think my battery is toast, it's been on the charger for a while and it's only good for about 10-15 revolutions and it dies as quick as it starts.

I also noticed I wasn't getting any fuel up to the carburator, maybe it's because the car has cycled the mech pump enough to get a good prime.

I really think my timing skills suck.....I pulled a msd ignition set-up off the 350 my 76 Camaro to trade, I didn't want to pull the distributor but the guy wanted it. I installed a new HEI unit in it and can't get it to start either. I thought if I put the distributor in the same spot as the old one and it would be ok. Car ran fine until I messed with it.

I'm going back and forth right now between both cars......I just wanted to get them running long enough to put the camaro in my shop for winter work and put the vette under my carport.

Now I'm timing this correctly I hope...I pull the #1 plug and put my finger over the hole....as it's coming to the compression stroke I get a woosh of air, then move the harmonic balancer grooved line to match up with the timing tab 0 mark. Then I should be able adjust the distributor from there for factory settings.

Anyone have any good step by step pics to show me how the rotor should be pointing towards the #1 plug and the orientation of the wires for firening order. All I have found are drawings online and nothing of the actual HEI stuff.
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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by SanDiegoPaul
OK now, I'm going 'back to basics' here so please don't take this as a dig or an insult. But which spark plug are you using for #1? If timing and such is done referencing the wrong cylinder, not much will happen.

Is there power to the coil, and have you verified spark? Engine TDC on Compression Stroke, is the ign rotor pointing to #1 on the cap?
None taken as an insult, I just want to get the car mobile again...it's been sitting for a year.

This is the reference I am using

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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Duke94
Has the engine ever run with the current block and heads? If not, is the cam installed correctly or maybe 180 out.
Also, as a quick check of valve lash, typically there should be 4 threads showing above the adjusting nut on a stock SB.
Gary
It's not possible to install a cam 180* out.
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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 12:18 PM
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Pour a little fresh gas in the carb and see if it starts. If the car has been sitting for a long time the gas could be bad . If it doesn't start you will know that it's either spark or timing.
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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by SSG26K
Pour a little fresh gas in the carb and see if it starts. If the car has been sitting for a long time the gas could be bad . If it doesn't start you will know that it's either spark or timing.
I did, it was bone dry before I re-installed the carburator stuff......it's just blowing my mind that the engine is reacting the exact same was as it did with the fuel injection stuff.

When I spray starting fluid in the carb it runs for a quick second....I mean you count to 1 and that's how long it tries to run.

I even changed the fuel delivery from electrical to mechanical, carburetor, and new distributor....still no dice.

My wife will be home in a bit so she can help me crank the car while I check timing again. I'll take pics of what I have and the positions of the rotor so everything can be verified.

When cranking the engine I have my wife bump the starter until I feel the rush of air in the #1 then we stop the engine at that moment. I then rotate the crank clockwise to get to TDC mark on the harmonic balancer...it's not far off from there.

Once i have the HB mark lined up with the 0 on the timing tab, and the firing order of the plug wires installed correctly....it should technically fire up and run...correct?
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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 1982CorvetteDude



Once i have the HB mark lined up with the 0 on the timing tab, and the firing order of the plug wires installed correctly....it should technically fire up and run...correct?
Only if your rotor is pointing at the desired wire in the cap.
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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
Only if your rotor is pointing at the desired wire in the cap.
So basically if I know I'm on the compression stoke, timing tab is lined up with mark on HB, the rotor is set to fire on the #1 cylinder, and all the plugs are in the correct firing order in correspondence to the engine and distributor....it should fire as long as the fuel and spark is there and no vacuum leaks?
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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 1982CorvetteDude
... I also noticed I wasn't getting any fuel up to the carburator, maybe it's because the car has cycled the mech pump enough to get a good prime.
...

I did, it was bone dry before I re-installed the carburator stuff...

When I spray starting fluid in the carb it runs for a quick second....I mean you count to 1 and that's how long it tries to run. ...
Fill the carb bowl w/ gas through the vent tube.
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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Ganey
Fill the carb bowl w/ gas through the vent tube.
Thanks I did that earlier
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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by 1982CorvetteDude
None taken as an insult, I just want to get the car mobile again...it's been sitting for a year.

This is the reference I am using

Is it the same for an 82 SB?


Try ether too.
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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 01:18 PM
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Earlier you mentioned the HB, it's possible for the ring to slip, check & it can move enough to touch the timing cover.
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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by 1982CorvetteDude
So basically if I know I'm on the compression stoke, timing tab is lined up with mark on HB, the rotor is set to fire on the #1 cylinder, and all the plugs are in the correct firing order in correspondence to the engine and distributor....it should fire as long as the fuel and spark is there and no vacuum leaks?

Yup. Did you check to see that you really have a spark or just assumed?
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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 02:18 PM
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Get some starting fluid and see if it starts.

If it does start: Ignition is "ok" but fuel system is not.

If it doesn't start: Ignition system is not functioning properly.


Start there.
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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 02:23 PM
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Still sounds like no fuel or bad fuel.
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