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Mar 1, 2002 | 05:29 PM

ComputerGuy

Thread Starter

Instructor

Joined: Feb 2002

Posts: 126

Likes: 0

From: Altus OK

Newbie

I have wanted a Corvette since I was 12 years old. I was car shopping 2 weeks ago and came across a 79. It needed new rear wheel bearings. Replaced bearing assemblies on rear, bearings on front, brake pads all around, and turned the rotors. Now the brakes act like they have air in them. Here's the question: Is it normal for a Vette to have to be bled even when you don't crack the bleeder screws or run low on fluid or anything else after a brakejob?

Thanks,

Guy

Mar 1, 2002 | 05:51 PM

scottw

Burning Brakes

Joined: Oct 2001

Posts: 1,241

Likes: 4

From: Okinawa Okinawa

Re: Newbie (ComputerGuy)

I don't have brake problems, YET, but I know C3s have terrible brakes on them. Can't really answer your question because I hav't delt with brakes yet.
There will be someone here who can help.

Anyway, Welcome to the forum. Hope everyone here can be of some assistance to you. I know I get help everyday.

Mar 1, 2002 | 06:12 PM

jerryp58

Melting Slicks

Joined: Aug 2000

Posts: 2,310

Likes: 1

Re: Newbie (ComputerGuy)

Welcome :seeya

I think Corvettes have good brakes, but they do need attention. I would say Yes, after pulling the calipers to change the pads and having the rotors turned, you should bleed the brakes.

Because they're a fixed caliper design, you also have to be careful about rotor runout. Hopefully, that won't be a problem with freshly turned rotors, but there are other variables (that's why a lot of people mark the rotor and a lug so that they can put the rotor on just like they took it off). The only real way to test runout is with the rotor on the hub, but if you bleed the brakes and don't have any "soft pedal" problems, you're probably OK.

In case you don't know it, the other issue with Corvette brakes is the caliper bores. On the factory calipers the bores have a tendency to rust & pit causing leaks. Most poeple who replace their calipers will replace them with ones that have stainless steel inserts. Hopefully, that's already been done with yours. Actually, it the fluid is changed every year or two, there won't be enough water built up in the lines to cause the problem.

Hope this helps, ane again Welcome!

Mar 1, 2002 | 06:25 PM

ComputerGuy

Thread Starter

Instructor

Joined: Feb 2002

Posts: 126

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From: Altus OK

Re: Newbie (jerryp58)

Thanks for the info. I'm going to try the "gravity bleed" method tomorrow. If it doesn't work, then I'll try the "pump" method tomorrow night. BTW, it has the original calipers on it. I'll probably be replacing them in a year or two.

Guy

Mar 1, 2002 | 06:37 PM

DaveMerth

Advanced

Joined: Dec 2001

Posts: 77

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From: Bethlehem Pa

Re: Newbie (ComputerGuy)

Welcome to the forum! :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:

Mar 1, 2002 | 07:17 PM

Juliet

Le Mans Master

Joined: Jul 1999

Posts: 7,072

Likes: 4

From: Maryland

Re: Newbie (ComputerGuy)

Quote:

BTW, it has the original calipers on it. I'll probably be replacing them in a year or two.
Guy

The originals can be resleeved to preserve your original castings (if you're into keeping the car original). There is also the issue of runout. The original brake calipers are not the 'O'ring style. As the rotor goes round it pushes the piston in and out if it's out of round (runout). This forces air into the system - and a soft pedal. I'm a NCRS numbers matching purist, :eek: but they don't judge brakes. :D So I have NEW O ring style calipers on my baby. :cool: It's such a major safety item I won't take a chance with it - even if NCRS was judging them. :yesnod:

Anyways, welcome to the forum. :cool: