torque converter
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 180
Likes: 1
From: Prairieville Louisiana
torque converter
anyone care to recomend a converter for a 383? Cam is a 340/340 @ 50, 540 lift. Gears are 3.08, i'm thinking about 2500 stall. 350 trans. Not too worried about 60ft. times. Any input appreciated.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
You cam is probably 240/240 @ .050
If you buy a good converter it doesn't matter if it is 4000 rpm stall at your rated TQ because they are so efficient that they only slip a few hundred rpm cruising down the freeway at 75 mph. I used 3500 and 3800 for years.
You want to stay away from the cheaper junk though!
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,911
Likes: 2
From: gold coast queensland
when your cruising on the highway what is your rpm with your current set up? ..im guessing arund 2600 rpm?...... if so then the 2500 will work. if you go to the 3000 then your converter will always be slipping causing more heat if you are in fact at my estimated rpm.
if you are cruising above 3000 then you could go the larger 3000 stall but i have noticed that there is quite a jump in price from a 2500 to a 3000 converter.
i have 2 B&M converters. one is a 3000 and the other is a 2500 and i like them alot. i thrash both of them and have not killed them yet. ....but make sure you get the holeshot series- they do a cheaper one for stock motors and if you have 300+ hp you will kill it.
if you are cruising above 3000 then you could go the larger 3000 stall but i have noticed that there is quite a jump in price from a 2500 to a 3000 converter.
i have 2 B&M converters. one is a 3000 and the other is a 2500 and i like them alot. i thrash both of them and have not killed them yet. ....but make sure you get the holeshot series- they do a cheaper one for stock motors and if you have 300+ hp you will kill it.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 2,431
Likes: 52
From: Florida
http://www.tciauto.com/
Give these guys a call... they'll ask you some questions and make a recommendation.
Jim
Give these guys a call... they'll ask you some questions and make a recommendation.
Jim
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvette Engines RANKED by Peak Torque (70+ Years of Muscle!)
Joe Kucinski
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Revolutionary 'Corvette Firsts' Most People Don't Know
Joe Kucinski
5 Reasons to Upgrade to an LS6-Powered Corvette; 5 Reasons to Stay LT2
Michael S. Palmer
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
I'm a firm believer in you get what you pay for. Your TCI and B&M are pretty much junk and destined to fail. I got tired of pulling the tranny to send back TCI race convertors and 700R4 "Race" trannies.
I would rather spend $1000 bucks and never have a problem or worry about if it's going to blow using slicks on a sticky track.
My Art Carr did line lock burn outs with good slicks and I could almost do a whole 1/8th mile burn out at the track for burnout contest day. That would spit a junk TC apart.
I had a crappy B&M street fighter behind my 440 ci hot rodded Mopar. Going down the road it ran 3000 rpm all the time unless you drove over the 3000 rpm. So you would, like GingerbreadMan suggested use a lower stall than cruise rpm. I was glad when I got on it and ripped the stator out of the B&M while still under warranty. It gave me a reason to get rid of it
I always bought Art Carr, PI, ATI
Interesting reading. http://www.converter.com/competition.htm
I would rather spend $1000 bucks and never have a problem or worry about if it's going to blow using slicks on a sticky track.
My Art Carr did line lock burn outs with good slicks and I could almost do a whole 1/8th mile burn out at the track for burnout contest day. That would spit a junk TC apart.I had a crappy B&M street fighter behind my 440 ci hot rodded Mopar. Going down the road it ran 3000 rpm all the time unless you drove over the 3000 rpm. So you would, like GingerbreadMan suggested use a lower stall than cruise rpm. I was glad when I got on it and ripped the stator out of the B&M while still under warranty. It gave me a reason to get rid of it
I always bought Art Carr, PI, ATI
Interesting reading. http://www.converter.com/competition.htm
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,924
Likes: 735
From: Youngstown Ohio
I had best results with the Art Carr Super Torque 10" converter. Mine was customed for 2900 stall, and it flashed to 4300 rpm on launch. I also previously used a TCI 2500 stall....good results, but got best performance from the Art Carr; well worth the money, I still use it with a 427" small block.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,911
Likes: 2
From: gold coast queensland
I'm a firm believer in you get what you pay for. Your TCI and B&M are pretty much junk and destined to fail. I got tired of pulling the tranny to send back TCI race convertors and 700R4 "Race" trannies.
I would rather spend $1000 bucks and never have a problem or worry about if it's going to blow using slicks on a sticky track. My Art Carr did line lock burn outs with good slicks and I could almost do a whole 1/8th mile burn out at the track for burnout contest day. That would spit a junk TC apart.
I had a crappy B&M street fighter behind my 440 ci hot rodded Mopar. Going down the road it ran 3000 rpm all the time unless you drove over the 3000 rpm. So you would, like GingerbreadMan suggested use a lower stall than cruise rpm. I was glad when I got on it and ripped the stator out of the B&M while still under warranty. It gave me a reason to get rid of it
I always bought Art Carr, PI, ATI
Interesting reading. http://www.converter.com/competition.htm
I would rather spend $1000 bucks and never have a problem or worry about if it's going to blow using slicks on a sticky track.
My Art Carr did line lock burn outs with good slicks and I could almost do a whole 1/8th mile burn out at the track for burnout contest day. That would spit a junk TC apart.I had a crappy B&M street fighter behind my 440 ci hot rodded Mopar. Going down the road it ran 3000 rpm all the time unless you drove over the 3000 rpm. So you would, like GingerbreadMan suggested use a lower stall than cruise rpm. I was glad when I got on it and ripped the stator out of the B&M while still under warranty. It gave me a reason to get rid of it
I always bought Art Carr, PI, ATI
Interesting reading. http://www.converter.com/competition.htm
Last edited by gingerbreadman1977; Dec 14, 2009 at 11:51 PM.
