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HARD cold starts...

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Old Dec 24, 2009 | 09:18 PM
  #1  
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Default HARD cold starts...

Hi gang,

I'm sorry if this is a common thread but I just can't find the answer to my problem...

I put a rebuilt qjet from jegs on my car recently and have got it dialed in pretty well....when its warmed up it purrs and runs great, even at idle.

But no matter how I adjust the choke settings (coil tension, choke pulloff and fast idle) I CANNOT get it to work as desired and dead cold starts are next to impossible. Correct me if I'm wrong, but this is how I thought the electric choke is supposed to work.

1. when engine is dead cold, bimetallic spring should hold flap closed with just enough tension to do the job.

2. as soon as you start cranking the vacuum choke pulloff should crack the plate about a quarter of an inch to let the engine start.

3. the combination of engine heat and the 12v source heats up spring, gradually releasing tension until engine is warmed.

I feel like number 2 is my problem, no vacuum is building while I crank, therefore the pulloff isn't working and causing the carb to flood. IF I can get it started it'll stumble up to the proper warm up rpm of 1500.

I tried rotating the cap to the point where there was hardly any tension on the flap but then the choke wouldn't engage at all. Could this be a vacuum leak that is killing the pulloff but once the engine warms up it "magically" goes away, hence the great idle and performance when warm?

PS sometimes it'll roar for about 1 second the first time I crank then nothing.....

Thanks a lot and Merry Christmas!

Brad
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Old Dec 24, 2009 | 09:48 PM
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I would say you are barking up the wrong tree. It probably has no gas at cold start, and no amount of choke is going to help that. To prove this to yourself, before doing anything pour a little gas into the carb from the top and then start. If it fires instantly, you will know the problem.
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Old Dec 24, 2009 | 09:58 PM
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Do you pump the accelerator? I have to give it two maybe three pumps on very cold days
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Old Dec 25, 2009 | 12:44 AM
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When I rarely get it to start it seems the only way I get it is by constantly moving the throttle while cranking or by propping open the choke plate manually. I believe fuel is getting in because I can see the squirts from the accelerator pump...

I don't know if this is relevant to my problem but tonight I noticed after I cranked for a while that when I cracked the plate a thick white vapor came out....strange
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Old Dec 25, 2009 | 01:12 AM
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A quarter inch opening is too much. You should make it around 1/8".
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Old Dec 25, 2009 | 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by stingraydriver74
When I rarely get it to start it seems the only way I get it is by constantly moving the throttle while cranking or by propping open the choke plate manually. I believe fuel is getting in because I can see the squirts from the accelerator pump...

I don't know if this is relevant to my problem but tonight I noticed after I cranked for a while that when I cracked the plate a thick white vapor came out....strange
Just try what I said.
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Old Dec 25, 2009 | 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by wombvette
I would say you are barking up the wrong tree. It probably has no gas at cold start, and no amount of choke is going to help that. To prove this to yourself, before doing anything pour a little gas into the carb from the top and then start. If it fires instantly, you will know the problem.

If this makes your car start then your fuel is escaping to somewhere. Its either leaking out the bottom of the carb or being siphoned back to the tank.
Pinching off the 3/8" rubber fuel hose between the pump and metal line going back to the tank after shutting the engine off should shed light on that mystery.
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Old Dec 25, 2009 | 11:11 AM
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All that the guys have suggested is correct.
What I can add has to do with how my car acts.
1. Gas pedal to the floor fully one time. This "sets" the choke. Blade closed with some spring loaded pressure.
2. Crank over engine, engine fires and runs on fast idle. Choke blade pulled open with about 1/8 to 1/4 gap to back of air horn. Gap size is dependant on ambient air temp.
3. As engine warms choke coil warms up but requires a throttle blip to release fast idle cam, open choke blade and idle speed goes to normal idle.
This is normal if I drove car the previous day. If car sits for a week without driving I must pump pedal as cranking engine then 2. through 3. occur normally. When car sits without starting for several days then the info Roger gave comes into play. I always thought the fuel was just evaporating from float bowl but have learned from the Forum about drain back. You stated you have elec. choke. Where did you get 12v from and is it hot when key is on? Adjust choke when engine is cold and choke is set as in 1. Try all tips offered here and get back to us. Merry Christmas to all. mds...
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Old Dec 25, 2009 | 12:39 PM
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Default flooding is easy ......

Originally Posted by stingraydriver74
... or by propping open the choke plate manually. I believe fuel is getting in because I can see the squirts from the accelerator pump...:
This indicates you are giving it too much pump shot and flooding it. I can let my car sit for a month in below freezing weather. Give it a 1/3 shot, crank 2 seconds, give it another 1/3 or 1/2 shot while cranking, and off she goes. The choke plate won't pull open with cranking vacuum, just when it fires. 1/8 - 1/3 inch at first is fine.
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Old Dec 25, 2009 | 04:30 PM
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From: Roanoke Rapids NC
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I am getting my 12v from a wire junction on the driver side ran through a relay so that its only hot when the key is on. Its a solid 12v I checked with a meter.

I agree that it sounds more like a fuel issue now that ya'll mention it. I just don't understand why this has happened recently, could my fuel pump be going bad?

I will try putting a little fuel in manually next time(where exactly do you put it in? right through the choke plate?), but I also agree that propping open the blade manually would suggest an over rich condition. Man this is a headache....thanks for the replies, I will keep you posted.

Brad
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