I disassembled the T&T steering column in my 1980 vette down to the turn signal switch. I did this to verify that the wires connected to the switch from the harness were ok and to get my horn working while I had the steering column apart.

My first problem is the horn. The lower contact assembly has a spring, an eyelet, and an insulator. Initially, the eyelet was installed where the flat head was on top of the spring and the post ran down into the spring. With this configuration, there was a large space between the eyelet and the hook it is supposed to touch on the upper contact assembly. After reviewing Jim Shea's diagrams, it showed the eyelet's post was supposed to point away from the spring. The issue I now have is when the upper contact assembly is mounted to the spacer, the horn blows when the eyelet touches the hook. I don't see any other way to install this. I thought the retainer that is connected to the horn button (emblem and cap) was supposed to ground and make the horn blow. I haven't even installed these parts yet as I cannot get past the hook on the spacer without the horn blowing. My retainer is JB Welded to my horn button.

The second problem I've noticed is when I put the steering wheel back on and turn the wheel, I hear "clunking" noises from the steering column. I have no idea what that may be. I am assuming something got damaged while I was trying to put the HUB assembly back on the spline.

If anyone has any input, it would be greatly appreciated.

 

Here is a picture of the upper contact assembly before removing. You can't really see in this picture but the spacer was assembled on top of the telescopic locking ring instead of behind as is shows in the diagram.

 

OK, since my left parking lamp and turn signal are not working now, I turned on the key, activated the left turn signal, stuck my voltage tester in the wire slot in the harmonica harness and the signal would flash while the tester was stuck in there. If I take the tester out, I get no parking lamp or turn signal. Does this mean there is some sort of a ground issue?

 

In your picture of the steering wheel, are those metal pop rivets holding the upper contact together? They should be plastic rivets. If they are metal you will have a complete ground path 100% of the time.
You need to depress the contact and then make metal to metal contact within the contact to blow the horn. There are plastic rivet kits available to rebuild your contact. Otherwise just purchase a complete contact. They are readily available. One picture is worth many, many, words.

The eyelet should always be touching the "hook" on the upper contact.

The spacer should be below the upper contact as you mentioned. The spacer or spacers are needed to space the horn cap away from the telescope locking lever. Otherwise, the horn cap can rub on the lever (making noise) and also it could prevent you from depressing the horn cap and contact and the not being able to blow the horn.

AS far as the clunking. Is the column head loose? Using my T&T disassembly and repair paper #1 can you perform the steering column tests to determine if you have loose components inside the column. Otherwise, stick your ear around the column while rocking the steering wheel and try and determine where the clunking is occuring. You may need to install a new lower bearing (outside under the hood). You may need one or two new upper bearings. Here is a link to the paper.
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-co...ev03no2009.pdf
Jim

 

Thanks Jim. I was looking at your papers last night. I will follow paper #1 later today. Boy, getting that splined hub back on was no picnic. I'll see if I can isolate the noise and post. I've never torn a steering wheel down past the turn signal switch so I'm a bit apprehensive.

Yes, the rivets are metal. Looks like I'll be getting a new contact.

On a side note - I was able to get my left front signals working. There was some sort of brown gunk at the bottom of the sockets. (Old bulb grease maybe?) Anyhow, after digging all that stuff out and putting the bulbs back in with new bulb grease, the front left lights came back to life!

Now I'm trying to figure out why my rear left turn signal will not work. The light works when the parking lights are turned on but no flash for turn signal or hazards.
There's a yellow wire that goes from the light to the harmonica harness and into the column to the switch. No power to it when the signal is turned on. Is the current for the turn signal supposed to originate from the switch in the column? There are two other wires at the light; Brown - power to the wire when the lights are turned on and Black - I assume is a ground. I've checked the sockets for the same dry mud I found in the front but they are clean. I'm not sure what to check next. I'll keep poking around.

MCJ

 

Here is the address for a chart explaining all of the turn signal switch wires and colors.
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-co...5jl2009pdf.pdf

I sure am glad you included the picture. It would have been difficult to guess that Bubba had been rummaging around inside the column and used metal pop rivets to reassemble the upper horn contact.

Jim

 

Yeah, Jim, thank you for the heads up on that! I've spent days in my man cave here trying to resolve these electrical issues.

I hate to say it but my last problem was caused by me putting an 1156 bulb into an 1157 socket! After correcting that problem, all of my lights up front work properly. (Not including headlights)

My last turn signal issue is with the driver's rear. The turn signal is a yellow wire coming from the steering column. I have power at he harmonica connector going in and out but nothing at the bulb. I disconnected the harmonica connector and did a continuity test from the connector to the bulb and it was fine! I'm kinda scratching my head now as to what the issue could be. If there is continuity, then the power should make it to the socket. (shrug)

Any ideas?

NEVERMIND I found the problem. loose connection.