Steering Gear box removal.
01-15-2010, 02:57 PM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Steering Gear box removal.
I'm detailing my 70 coupe with 350SB with PS,PB & Auto trans and at the point where I've pulled my steering assy and removed the relay rod from the pitman arm and idler arm from the frame & droped the entire steering assy.
I'm looking at the steering box and would like to remove it to clean it up and paint.
Can I remove the steering box from the steering column shaft with this proceedure and not throw anything out of sink or end up with something out of alignment if I mark everything correctly.
My procedure is as follows.
Mark relation of pitman arm and rag on shafts.
Remove pitman nut then remove pitman arm with jaw puller.
Loosen rag joint coupler at steering box shaft and or remove bolt if need be.
Remove steering box bolts and slide steering box shaft out of the rag joint coupler, leaving the rag joint upper coupler still attached to the steering column shaft.
Can I remove the steering gear box like this or is there still not enough room to slide out of the rag joint coupling.
Also is there any torque built up in the box to cause the steering box shaft to turn once and lose the setting (relation mark) at the rag joint.
I really dont have to do this today but what I'm trying to do is Not have to move or pull the steering column I I can keep from it.
If I where to need a new rag joint then is there any reason why I couldnt then continue to remove the rag joint upper steering shaft coupler then replace the rag joint if needed?
Thanks for any help.
I'm looking at the steering box and would like to remove it to clean it up and paint.
Can I remove the steering box from the steering column shaft with this proceedure and not throw anything out of sink or end up with something out of alignment if I mark everything correctly.
My procedure is as follows.
Mark relation of pitman arm and rag on shafts.
Remove pitman nut then remove pitman arm with jaw puller.
Loosen rag joint coupler at steering box shaft and or remove bolt if need be.
Remove steering box bolts and slide steering box shaft out of the rag joint coupler, leaving the rag joint upper coupler still attached to the steering column shaft.
Can I remove the steering gear box like this or is there still not enough room to slide out of the rag joint coupling.
Also is there any torque built up in the box to cause the steering box shaft to turn once and lose the setting (relation mark) at the rag joint.
I really dont have to do this today but what I'm trying to do is Not have to move or pull the steering column I I can keep from it.
If I where to need a new rag joint then is there any reason why I couldnt then continue to remove the rag joint upper steering shaft coupler then replace the rag joint if needed?
Thanks for any help.
01-15-2010, 04:48 PM
#2
Team Owner
Your plan is a good one...the concept and approach are good. You will need to completely remove the attachment bolt on the rag joint, as the joint cannot be removed otherwise. There are two bolts on the flex joint portion; these are different sizes (bolts and nut) and need to be replaced in the same location. A digital photo of the ragjoint before you disassemble is a good idea.
If the fiber flex disc is still in good condition (not deteriorated; still offers good stiffness to the joint), I would recommend keeping it "as is". You can disassemble it and refurbish all of the metal components, then reassemble if you want. I did that to mine and used Dupli-color 'clear' engine enamel on the bare metal pieces so they would not rust [easily]. It worked well and is still nice a year later.
Only you can decide if you need to rebuild the steering box or not. If it is working well and does not have any 'slop' or free play in it, I'd recommend that you fill it with a hi-temp synthetic steering gear grease. If it has been many years since being serviced [or never been serviced], the grease is probably dried up/out and it needs to be refilled. You can do so by removing the front and back bolts in the top cover (leave the third one in), then squirt the grease in one of the open bolt holes. Don't fill it completely, as you need to leave some air space for the grease to expand as it gets hotter (leave about 1/4-1/2" of airspace).
I used several different paints/coatings on the steering box to restore its appearance. The main casting got painted with "Cast Iron" colored hi-temp engine enamel; the top plate is aluminum, so I just cleaned/brushed it up, then coated with "clear" engine enamel; the large spanner nut at the bottom is brass and it just got wire brushed clean. Basically, I tried to get the assembly to look like new and for each different metal to be painted or protected with a clear coat.
Good luck with your project, it will be worth it when you get done.
If the fiber flex disc is still in good condition (not deteriorated; still offers good stiffness to the joint), I would recommend keeping it "as is". You can disassemble it and refurbish all of the metal components, then reassemble if you want. I did that to mine and used Dupli-color 'clear' engine enamel on the bare metal pieces so they would not rust [easily]. It worked well and is still nice a year later.
Only you can decide if you need to rebuild the steering box or not. If it is working well and does not have any 'slop' or free play in it, I'd recommend that you fill it with a hi-temp synthetic steering gear grease. If it has been many years since being serviced [or never been serviced], the grease is probably dried up/out and it needs to be refilled. You can do so by removing the front and back bolts in the top cover (leave the third one in), then squirt the grease in one of the open bolt holes. Don't fill it completely, as you need to leave some air space for the grease to expand as it gets hotter (leave about 1/4-1/2" of airspace).
I used several different paints/coatings on the steering box to restore its appearance. The main casting got painted with "Cast Iron" colored hi-temp engine enamel; the top plate is aluminum, so I just cleaned/brushed it up, then coated with "clear" engine enamel; the large spanner nut at the bottom is brass and it just got wire brushed clean. Basically, I tried to get the assembly to look like new and for each different metal to be painted or protected with a clear coat.
Good luck with your project, it will be worth it when you get done.
01-15-2010, 05:11 PM
#3
Drifting
Thread Starter
Your plan is a good one...the concept and approach are good. You will need to completely remove the attachment bolt on the rag joint, as the joint cannot be removed otherwise. There are two bolts on the flex joint portion; these are different sizes (bolts and nut) and need to be replaced in the same location. A digital photo of the ragjoint before you disassemble is a good idea.
If the fiber flex disc is still in good condition (not deteriorated; still offers good stiffness to the joint), I would recommend keeping it "as is". You can disassemble it and refurbish all of the metal components, then reassemble if you want. I did that to mine and used Dupli-color 'clear' engine enamel on the bare metal pieces so they would not rust [easily]. It worked well and is still nice a year later.
Only you can decide if you need to rebuild the steering box or not. If it is working well and does not have any 'slop' or free play in it, I'd recommend that you fill it with a hi-temp synthetic steering gear grease. If it has been many years since being serviced [or never been serviced], the grease is probably dried up/out and it needs to be refilled. You can do so by removing the front and back bolts in the top cover (leave the third one in), then squirt the grease in one of the open bolt holes. Don't fill it completely, as you need to leave some air space for the grease to expand as it gets hotter (leave about 1/4-1/2" of airspace).
I used several different paints/coatings on the steering box to restore its appearance. The main casting got painted with "Cast Iron" colored hi-temp engine enamel; the top plate is aluminum, so I just cleaned/brushed it up, then coated with "clear" engine enamel; the large spanner nut at the bottom is brass and it just got wire brushed clean. Basically, I tried to get the assembly to look like new and for each different metal to be painted or protected with a clear coat.
Good luck with your project, it will be worth it when you get done.
If the fiber flex disc is still in good condition (not deteriorated; still offers good stiffness to the joint), I would recommend keeping it "as is". You can disassemble it and refurbish all of the metal components, then reassemble if you want. I did that to mine and used Dupli-color 'clear' engine enamel on the bare metal pieces so they would not rust [easily]. It worked well and is still nice a year later.
Only you can decide if you need to rebuild the steering box or not. If it is working well and does not have any 'slop' or free play in it, I'd recommend that you fill it with a hi-temp synthetic steering gear grease. If it has been many years since being serviced [or never been serviced], the grease is probably dried up/out and it needs to be refilled. You can do so by removing the front and back bolts in the top cover (leave the third one in), then squirt the grease in one of the open bolt holes. Don't fill it completely, as you need to leave some air space for the grease to expand as it gets hotter (leave about 1/4-1/2" of airspace).
I used several different paints/coatings on the steering box to restore its appearance. The main casting got painted with "Cast Iron" colored hi-temp engine enamel; the top plate is aluminum, so I just cleaned/brushed it up, then coated with "clear" engine enamel; the large spanner nut at the bottom is brass and it just got wire brushed clean. Basically, I tried to get the assembly to look like new and for each different metal to be painted or protected with a clear coat.
Good luck with your project, it will be worth it when you get done.
I may have to hit you up again about all the torque spec when it all goes back together. Also I like to take lots of pictures of everything and then some.
Thanks Again.
01-16-2010, 05:11 PM
#4
Team Owner
I will gladly offer any advice you need...but, when it comes to the "innards", Jim Shea is 'the man'. Do whatever he and/or his papers tell you to do during a rebuild and you'll be OK.
01-16-2010, 11:36 PM
#5
Drifting
Thread Starter
Thanks 7T1vette,
Yesterday I was able to remove the pitman arm then had to catch up on the chores around the house due to having company this weekend, so the cars are on hold for a few days.
Right now the steering box & steering joint will be a good clean up job and paint cause there were no issues before with the steering and hopefully wont have any issues when It's back all back together.
While I have all the steering out I need to replace my M/C and will have to look at the brake booster to see if there any problem with it. Once all of that is finished then it's on to going thru the whole rear end of the car including the fuel tank. It will be a while before the car is back on the road but I'm having fun working on it.
Yesterday I was able to remove the pitman arm then had to catch up on the chores around the house due to having company this weekend, so the cars are on hold for a few days.
Right now the steering box & steering joint will be a good clean up job and paint cause there were no issues before with the steering and hopefully wont have any issues when It's back all back together.
While I have all the steering out I need to replace my M/C and will have to look at the brake booster to see if there any problem with it. Once all of that is finished then it's on to going thru the whole rear end of the car including the fuel tank. It will be a while before the car is back on the road but I'm having fun working on it.
01-17-2010, 08:54 AM
#6
Team Owner
Well, I'm 'ahead' of you on the front end; but it sounds like you will get the rear done before I get to it. I'm just installing a 4-post lift and wanted to get that done before I dug into the back end of my car. I'm trying to make mine "appear" to be stock...but I don't want ANY unpainted/uncoated metal on the car so that it won't corrode and change appearance easily.
01-17-2010, 11:27 AM
#7
Drifting
Thread Starter
Well, I'm 'ahead' of you on the front end; but it sounds like you will get the rear done before I get to it. I'm just installing a 4-post lift and wanted to get that done before I dug into the back end of my car. I'm trying to make mine "appear" to be stock...but I don't want ANY unpainted/uncoated metal on the car so that it won't corrode and change appearance easily.
Your installing a 4 post lift? I think I hate you now. LOL
Good for you. I've looked into getting a 4 post lift but only have a 9ft ceiling, but I've talked to the home builder to see if he can raise the ceiling or change the ceiling so I can have a vaulted ceiling in the back of my garage then I'll have at least 4 more feet of ceiling space at the lowest point of the ceiling pitch, and if the builder can do this with out risking a problem with the structural integrity and or costing me a gazillion dollars then I'll go ahead and do it.
As far as being ahead of you is very doughtful cause I'm way to slow and meticulous but then I guess thats ok.
01-17-2010, 11:53 AM
#8
Team Owner
Well, I've had my car for 5 years and it still isn't "done". Of course, I drive it a lot and take it to several shows each year and that cuts into available 'work' time. I tend to work in spurts that focus on one area of the car at a time. So far I've removed and refurbed the interior (kept all but one original piece in the interior...e-brake housing...and reskinned the original door panels; also re-carpeted); refurbed the front suspension, wheels, brake parts; detailed the entire engine compartment and rebuilt all the original accessory items. The next item up is redoing the rear suspension and cleaning all of that up. That's should hold me for a while.
01-17-2010, 11:25 PM
#9
Drifting
Thread Starter
Just a little update,
I managed to get a little time on the car this evening and was able to mark everything that thought should be marked on the steering box and rag joint then took about 60 pictures before, during and after & separate pieces & will have to let it set for a day or two to do chores tomorrow, then will beable to start the clean up. When I get a chance I'll post some pic's of the rag joint. I'll have some questions about it.
I managed to get a little time on the car this evening and was able to mark everything that thought should be marked on the steering box and rag joint then took about 60 pictures before, during and after & separate pieces & will have to let it set for a day or two to do chores tomorrow, then will beable to start the clean up. When I get a chance I'll post some pic's of the rag joint. I'll have some questions about it.
