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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 04:57 AM
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Default New front suspension

Well I started on replacing all the bushings and springs on the front of my 79. Disassembly was a pain, first time doing this. I followd the AIM so it was not impossible but time consuming. I will be putting all OEM rubber bushing back in since it is a daily driver. I figured the old one lasted for almost 30 years (worn out now). I am in the process of cleaning everything up now and will re assemble next week.

I think the hardest part is taking the bushings out of the upper and lower control arm. Lots of drilling the rubber out and pb blaster.

Do you think I should change out the rotors also? They are original. The brakes look ok.
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 05:04 AM
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I've got 125K on my original rotors and they have plenty of meat left. Also they've never been turned either. I wouldn't replace them unless needed.
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 07:55 AM
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Check the thickness and make sure they're still above minimum. If so, keep them.
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by dgood
Well I started on replacing all the bushings and springs on the front of my 79. Disassembly was a pain, first time doing this. I followd the AIM so it was not impossible but time consuming. I will be putting all OEM rubber bushing back in since it is a daily driver. I figured the old one lasted for almost 30 years (worn out now). I am in the process of cleaning everything up now and will re assemble next week.

I think the hardest part is taking the bushings out of the upper and lower control arm. Lots of drilling the rubber out and pb blaster.

Do you think I should change out the rotors also? They are original. The brakes look ok.
I just did mine. I put the A-Arm mounting bar in a vise and used an air chisel with a blunt tip to mini jack hammer them out. Probably a minute or two for each bushing.

I had to lathe each of the bushing centers to get the proper length with the end bolts tight. I used a black grease anti seize so they went in nice.

I installed new ball joints and wheel bearings.

rotors have a min. service thickness. Brake shops can turn the rotors to true them up. I used to get about 2-3 sets of pads using carbon metallic to one rotor. My stock 79 rotors would only last a year or two. rotors are cheap
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by dgood
I think the hardest part is taking the bushings out of the upper and lower control arm. Lots of drilling the rubber out and pb blaster.
I hit mine with a propane torch until they caught on fire. Then I just let them slowly smolder their way out. After about 10 minutes *plop* out came a melted blob of bushing.

Do you think I should change out the rotors also? They are original. The brakes look ok.
Unless you've been running metallic pads (or wore down pads to the backer plates) then rotors wear very slowly. Like others have said, measure them, if they're in spec then drive on.
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 10:50 AM
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ok, the original rotors stay then. It looks like the rubber brake lines need to be replaced so off comes the caliper. I have everything painted, just waiting for the bushings to come in. Putting in all new ball joints along with sway bar bushings. Nothing broke yet. I am doing only one side at a time incase I *&^* something up and forget where something goes.
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 11:01 AM
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How do you get the bushings back in to the control arm? With the grease, will they go in relatively easy? I hope there isn't anothe "special" tool that I have to buy.
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by dgood
How do you get the bushings back in to the control arm? With the grease, will they go in relatively easy? I hope there isn't anothe "special" tool that I have to buy.
I used to use an air hammer. Also, if the hole is cleaned up & perdy, then a greased-up bushing will go right in if you use a socket that fits the outer ring of the bushing & hammer it in. Be sure you're bracing the back side of the control arm.

These days, I just buy completed asssemblies. When I did the suspension on my 76 a couple years ago, I just bought new control arms from VanSteel. They are black powder coated, and come with new bushings & ball joints already installed.

It's a piece of cake doing the job that way.
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by dgood
How do you get the bushings back in to the control arm? With the grease, will they go in relatively easy? I hope there isn't anothe "special" tool that I have to buy.
Well if you use poly, you just slide them in by hand.
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by wcsinx
Well if you use poly, you just slide them in by hand.
Be sure to lube the poly bushings with synthetic lube before installing to reduce squeaks.
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 11:41 PM
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Originally Posted by dgood
How do you get the bushings back in to the control arm? With the grease, will they go in relatively easy? I hope there isn't anothe "special" tool that I have to buy.
When I did this I bought 2, 1 15/16th" sockets. They seem to fit the metal outer edge of the bushing perfect. First I put in the little bar that you use to bolt the control arm to the frame with. Then I pushed in the bushings by hand to get them seated. I then placed one socket on the ground. Set the control arm into the socket, then put the other socket over the other bushing. Have a friend hold the control arm perpendicular to the ground. Then hit the socket with a hammer. Doing this will push both the bushings in at one time. Bushings went in easy.

Oh I didn't use grease, but I'm sure that would have made it even easier.
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Old Jan 19, 2010 | 01:41 AM
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Put the bushings in the freezer overnight prior to installation, and the metal will shrink...making it slide in that much easier.

Here is a link from ZIP, and it shows the complete front end rebuild in detail.

http://www.corvettemagazine.com/comp...n-rebuild.html
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Old Jan 19, 2010 | 07:19 PM
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Thanks all. I will have to wait until this weekend.....This stuff in Hati is pulling us Navy guys left and right. Real busy during the week.
Dan
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Old Feb 20, 2010 | 12:02 PM
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Finished the front end. Had to wait for the snow to clear before I could test drive it. Lots of work but it drives great and rides a lot better. Changed all the tie rod ends, bushings, springs, and shocks. I went with rubber bushings and all TRW tie rod ends. Drives like a champ instead of a dump truck.

Had to replace the front brake lines and hoses because they were leaking and changed out the rag joint also. Painted everything also so it should last quite awhile now. Next project will be the transmission. *&^&%^ leaks and I can not for the life of me get that pan gasket to stop so I will take it to the shop. I need to replace all the body mounts but that looks like maybe next winter. I am driving it now as much as I can. I will try to post some pics later once I figure my phone camera out. Thanks for all the help.
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Old Feb 20, 2010 | 12:37 PM
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good to hear that you are back on the road again. is the trans pan chrome or original?

a common mistake that many people do is over tighten the pan bolts and you get instant leaks. Ask me hoe i found that one out.
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Old Feb 20, 2010 | 04:17 PM
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Larry,
I have replaced the gasket about 10 times over the last couple of years and just can't get it right. I even torque it correctly and it still leaks. I have a new pan on there now and no luck. I tried the chrome one and got rid of that one real quick. Maybe one more time before it goes to the shop.
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Old Feb 20, 2010 | 04:39 PM
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Is it leaking in one spot in particular? Almost sounds like the body of the transmission is not square with the face of the fan if you have had to replace the gasket 10 times. It's hard to say what may have happened to the transmission over the years....maybe it took a hard hit to the transmission pan and bent the housing, I dunno. Have you considered using a good RTV in conjunction or instead of the regular pan gasket?

Deja
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Old Feb 20, 2010 | 04:42 PM
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i was just curious about the chrome pans because they are notorious for leaking. what type of gaskets are you trying? i have heard of some guys using silicone gaskets and that those are good. I have not tried them myself. but just food for thought i also agree with Deja a good rtv might help get rid of the leaks
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Old Feb 20, 2010 | 07:45 PM
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I have tried the rubber gaskets and cork with no luck. Everyone says do not use RTV. What RTV should I use? I will try anything now. All I know is the fluid is staying clean. I add about a quart every couple of months and the bottom of my car won't rust with tranny fluid all over it.....good side to everything.
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Old Feb 20, 2010 | 08:38 PM
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you could try the permatex rtv they make one special for transmissions
http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/rodi_2092_505374998
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