82 will not start/crank
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,532
Likes: 14
From: Dallas-Fort Worth TX
82 will not start/crank
Howdy... and Happy New Year to Everyone.... 
Well the battery has been acting up. So one day I jumped it and got it running. Drove it around no problems. Basically lack of driving it.
Then yesterday, I went to start it after about 2 weeks and the battery was about dead. It cranked then it stopped. So I put it on a charger and in 20 mins it fired up. I let it run for about 15 mins. Then shut it off and started it again no problems. That was YESTERDAY
Today, I go to drive it and it will not even turn over. No sound, clicking or nothing. So I put it on the charger for over an hour and still nothing No sound.
I got interior lights, radio, etc.., and the volt gauge goes to the middle when I turn the key right before it goes to start. Sounds like the starter is hosed or the solenoid for the starter. I pulled the battery and checked the posts and they were clean as a whistle. The battery is barely 1.5 yrs old. I put a meeter on the battery and I got 12 volts. I also turned on the head lights and when I went to crank it, the volts didnt even change/drop. So nothing is happening with the starter electrically that I can tell. The lights don't even really dim inside the car when I tried to start it.
Any advice?? I have read some post about the ignition switch?? Steering column? This car is pretty much stock. No bubba work from what I can tell. I stole these ideas from mydejavu member. Thanks
R
. (see below)
1) Starter/Solenoid: Check to make sure that all connections are TIGHT and CLEAN. Corrosion is easy to overlook.
2) Key Switch: Pretty self explanatory there
3) Ignition Switch: Located on the column and fairly easy to swap out. I'm changing mine, although I'm guessing it's fine. Since I have everything already apart, it's an easy thing to change, and it's over 30 years old.
4) Neutral Safety Switch: I'm aaaaaalmost convinced that this is the culprit, at least in my case. I found a dangling wire near the solenoid that has a connection "made" for the solenoid, and a flat connector that was connected to a fused plastic piece. From what I'm told....bad switch, no start. You might check this out to see if you have power there.
5) Wires crossed: This can cause issues, but in your case I don't think this is an issue, unless you took something apart and got them mixed up. Easy to do, and a bear to sort out. T
Well the battery has been acting up. So one day I jumped it and got it running. Drove it around no problems. Basically lack of driving it.
Then yesterday, I went to start it after about 2 weeks and the battery was about dead. It cranked then it stopped. So I put it on a charger and in 20 mins it fired up. I let it run for about 15 mins. Then shut it off and started it again no problems. That was YESTERDAY
Today, I go to drive it and it will not even turn over. No sound, clicking or nothing. So I put it on the charger for over an hour and still nothing No sound.
I got interior lights, radio, etc.., and the volt gauge goes to the middle when I turn the key right before it goes to start. Sounds like the starter is hosed or the solenoid for the starter. I pulled the battery and checked the posts and they were clean as a whistle. The battery is barely 1.5 yrs old. I put a meeter on the battery and I got 12 volts. I also turned on the head lights and when I went to crank it, the volts didnt even change/drop. So nothing is happening with the starter electrically that I can tell. The lights don't even really dim inside the car when I tried to start it.
Any advice?? I have read some post about the ignition switch?? Steering column? This car is pretty much stock. No bubba work from what I can tell. I stole these ideas from mydejavu member. Thanks
R
. (see below)
1) Starter/Solenoid: Check to make sure that all connections are TIGHT and CLEAN. Corrosion is easy to overlook.
2) Key Switch: Pretty self explanatory there
3) Ignition Switch: Located on the column and fairly easy to swap out. I'm changing mine, although I'm guessing it's fine. Since I have everything already apart, it's an easy thing to change, and it's over 30 years old.
4) Neutral Safety Switch: I'm aaaaaalmost convinced that this is the culprit, at least in my case. I found a dangling wire near the solenoid that has a connection "made" for the solenoid, and a flat connector that was connected to a fused plastic piece. From what I'm told....bad switch, no start. You might check this out to see if you have power there.
5) Wires crossed: This can cause issues, but in your case I don't think this is an issue, unless you took something apart and got them mixed up. Easy to do, and a bear to sort out. T
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 5,000
Likes: 1
From: Minneapolis, Mn USA
Replace the battery with one from your daily driver and see if it changes.
Mine started acting up overnight it seemed. It gave me no issue ever, then one day it would only click over, then wouldn't do anything, all in a 24 hour timeframe. It was the battery that came with the truck, and from the datestamp on it, it was maybe 2.5 years old.
I replaced it and never had a problem since.
B.
Mine started acting up overnight it seemed. It gave me no issue ever, then one day it would only click over, then wouldn't do anything, all in a 24 hour timeframe. It was the battery that came with the truck, and from the datestamp on it, it was maybe 2.5 years old.
I replaced it and never had a problem since.
B.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,532
Likes: 14
From: Dallas-Fort Worth TX
Thanks Brent. I will try that. Just got the best battery walmart sells less than a year ago in my daily driver.
If that does not work, I am going to have to muscle that car probably with a friend to the other side of the stall, so I can get a jack underneath the pass side and put a meter on the starter and see if I am getting a circuit/voltage. The starter is on the pass side , correct? At least it was on my old camaro which had a 350.
Thx,
R
If that does not work, I am going to have to muscle that car probably with a friend to the other side of the stall, so I can get a jack underneath the pass side and put a meter on the starter and see if I am getting a circuit/voltage. The starter is on the pass side , correct? At least it was on my old camaro which had a 350.
Thx,
R
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 2,473
Likes: 10
From: New Paltz, New York USA
Yes, the starter is on the passengers side of the car. try another battery. Check your battery cables. The pos(+) is inside the car behind the back seat, the neg.(-) is under the car by the rear drivers side wheel.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,116
From: Crossville TN
Connect the voltmeter to the battery terminals, then attempt to start the car while watching the voltmeter. If the voltage drops a lot when you try to start it, the battery is weak...either 1) because the battery is going bad, 2) because the charging system isn't working properly, or 3) because you have something that is draining the battery when the car is OFF. If the voltage doesn't drop, you have a starter solenoid problem.
But, my money is on a 'battery drain' problem in your electrical system. Do you know how to diagnose that type of problem?
But, my money is on a 'battery drain' problem in your electrical system. Do you know how to diagnose that type of problem?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,740
Likes: 3
From: Aurora Ontario
Nex time try tapping the starter with a hammer. If it suddenly cranks even for an instant its the starter thats gone.
Mine used to do that too. When it did it. I changed the battery. It still would not start. So I changed the starter.
I doubt its the ignition switch. You can see that part work if you lie on the floor and look up. The actual switch is just above the steering column. There is a rod that runs from the key cylinder to the switch. It moves back and forth turning the switch on and off. I had that problem too. Everything should be dead though. You have a number of things that are hot when the ignition is on. Example the guages or radio. So if that stuff works its not the switch.M
Next time it does it try another battery. Maybe from your other car? Before spending the money. If it still does it. have someone turn the key while you tap the starter with a hammer. Try not to miss....you don't want to break something down there namely the knock sensor.
Jim
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,532
Likes: 14
From: Dallas-Fort Worth TX
OK. Problem figure out I think. Ran some fat jumper cables to the battery from my other car and it still would not crank, click, tick or anything.
So I pushed it out and got underneath it to take a look at the starter. Forgot my meter, so I was pissed about that. But I did take a golf putter and had my dad tap the starter solenoid a few times and I then cranked it and it fired right up...
Thanks for the all the help and tips.. So I am assuming I have a faulty starter/solenoid. I think have to replace both of them vs one or the other.
Looking for some recommendations now. I have a new engine planned for this. I was originally planning a new alternator, high volume water pump, power steering pump and a new HD starter.
I was thinking of Summit racing for this. Looking for a starter that will stand up to header heat, since they are very close together. I welcome any feedback on this.
Thanks, again,
R
So I pushed it out and got underneath it to take a look at the starter. Forgot my meter, so I was pissed about that. But I did take a golf putter and had my dad tap the starter solenoid a few times and I then cranked it and it fired right up...
Thanks for the all the help and tips.. So I am assuming I have a faulty starter/solenoid. I think have to replace both of them vs one or the other.
Looking for some recommendations now. I have a new engine planned for this. I was originally planning a new alternator, high volume water pump, power steering pump and a new HD starter.
I was thinking of Summit racing for this. Looking for a starter that will stand up to header heat, since they are very close together. I welcome any feedback on this.
Thanks, again,
R
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Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,116
From: Crossville TN
You can get a replacement soleniod for about the same price as getting a rebuild kit for the one in your car at NAPA ($15-20). It's your choice. With the quality of pre-assembled stuff these days, it's really a 'toss up' as to what to do. You still have to pull the starter to change just the solenoid. If the starter has a lot of years on it, you may want to replace the Bendix drive (on the starter shaft) and the brushes in the starter motor...just for good measure. Not a big deal to change out those items, and with the starter out, it's a "no brainer" as far as I'm concerned. Then the entire starter assembly would be good for another 20 years.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,740
Likes: 3
From: Aurora Ontario
OK. Problem figure out I think. Ran some fat jumper cables to the battery from my other car and it still would not crank, click, tick or anything.
So I pushed it out and got underneath it to take a look at the starter. Forgot my meter, so I was pissed about that. But I did take a golf putter and had my dad tap the starter solenoid a few times and I then cranked it and it fired right up...
Thanks for the all the help and tips.. So I am assuming I have a faulty starter/solenoid. I think have to replace both of them vs one or the other.
Looking for some recommendations now. I have a new engine planned for this. I was originally planning a new alternator, high volume water pump, power steering pump and a new HD starter.
I was thinking of Summit racing for this. Looking for a starter that will stand up to header heat, since they are very close together. I welcome any feedback on this.
Thanks, again,
R
So I pushed it out and got underneath it to take a look at the starter. Forgot my meter, so I was pissed about that. But I did take a golf putter and had my dad tap the starter solenoid a few times and I then cranked it and it fired right up...
Thanks for the all the help and tips.. So I am assuming I have a faulty starter/solenoid. I think have to replace both of them vs one or the other.
Looking for some recommendations now. I have a new engine planned for this. I was originally planning a new alternator, high volume water pump, power steering pump and a new HD starter.
I was thinking of Summit racing for this. Looking for a starter that will stand up to header heat, since they are very close together. I welcome any feedback on this.
Thanks, again,
R
When you take out the old pay attention to any shims that may drop out when you undo the bolts. Make sure the same number goes back in the same place. Aside from that youu may have to unplug the wire from the knock sensor...its kind of in the way....it could be brittle be careful. Also not the exact location of the wires. Draw a picture.
Jim
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,532
Likes: 14
From: Dallas-Fort Worth TX
Update: OK, I went ahead and got a new Battery, more cranking amps as well. Little bit larger dimensions. Also purchased a New/Rebuilt starter with lifetime warranty. It was that or replace the solenoid so I chose to do the whole starter. Better deal and piece of mind. I guess when I put headers on, I will wrap them with the heat tape to keep the heat down for the starter.
Car starts smooth and fast now. The starter has a nice smooth and quieter spin to it.
Thanks for all the help...
Car starts smooth and fast now. The starter has a nice smooth and quieter spin to it.
Thanks for all the help...
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 100
Likes: 0
From: Dimondale Mich
You need to check the battery electrically for 12 volts, but just as important, you need to check each cell if possible with a battery hydrometer, and make sure that the electolyte is good. If you have one bad cell it will drag the battery down. This happened to me, with a two week old battery. It would take charge, just wouldn't hold it very long.....good luck....
