80' vette, all stock

My steering setup has seen better days. The entire systems leaks power steering fluid all the time. I bought the steeroids r/p kit and ordering energy suspension master bushing kit. The problem is my steering pump has run dry from the previous owner a few times (guessing) and is in really bad shape. I don't want to install a new one when I know it will just have the fluid leak out. Can I drive the car with out one? Just make the steering rough right? Or is that a bad idea?

I have at least a few more weeks until I can get the steeroids, p/s pump and bushings installed. Sadly I will pay someone to do that because I don't have the time to install everything and get it aligned. If the pump goes out completely can I just take the belt off and drive the car?

 

Yes, you can remove the belt and drive. The only real problem is the dash mounts for the steering column and steering box were not really made for excessive TQ of driving unassisted.

 

You can do it no problems but I wouldn't do it if you didn't have too it can put stress on parts etc not designed to last without power assist

 

The dash, steering column and steering box are the same on PS and non-PS cars.

 

Although most of the parts are the same, it's a bad idea because of the compliance in the steering control valve. This will have the nearly the same effect as having a gross amount of deadband in the system which will make the controllability terrible. Further, the power actuator would still be hooked to the circuit and make the damping excessive.

If you were to disconnect the actuator, and modify the steering control valve by installing in a solid disk about 1/8 inch thick to remove the compliance, you will have a decent manual steering system. Alternately, if you don't like to modify the PS control valve, you could use a "Drag Link Adapter, 63-82 Corvette" as shown on the Borgeson website:
https://www.borgeson.com/xcart/home.php?cat=63
. I believe that Ecklers also sells these adapters.

 

Manual steering is much less steering wheel TQ than unassisted power steering. I had a friend that was out road racing and he spit the power steering belt. He decided to keep going because it was nearing the end of the race. He was working the wheel so hard that he tore the bracket off the steering column and then he limped in.

 

I've driven manual steering C3s and a C3 with non-functioning P/S (my own car). No real difference in steering wheel effort. Lots of C2s and C3s have fat sticky tires and no PS. Forget trying to turn the wheel when the car is stopped. No steering column failures. GM would not have been permitted to put a car on the road if the steering column broke loose because of a PS failure.

 

Well Mike, guess what? I fully agree with ya.. From what i understand about this system,its all manual components up till you get to the control valve. column,gearbox pitman all tha same as manual stuff.

 

Great information. The steering on the car sucks right now. The entire setup is beyond repair which is why I bought the rack and pinion setup. I am confident that the p/s does has not functioned correctly since I bought the car. Reason I think that is my 72 nova has manual steering it takes almost the same amount of effort to turn the wheel as my vette.

I am going to drive the car as it is and if the p/s pump goes crazy and squeels (which its starting too) I will cut the belt. I just wanted to make sure I won't be stranded on the side of the road if I did that. When your 45miles away from home it sucks trying to get your car back lol. I have to admit (knock on wood) so far all the chevy's I have owned including my vette always get me back home some how. Even with blown transmission, steering issues, carb issues, axles, stuck throttle, no brakes... etc they get me home... good ol' american made chevy

Thanks to everyone!

 

This is nice to hear.

I am putting a Small Block 400 into a 77 Corvette. The Small Block 400 I got from my engine builder does NOT have the drilled/tapped holes next to the crankshaft pulley for the power steering pump to mount.

I could drill the holes but I did not know they weren't there until the engine was already in, and the cast-iron engine isn't friendly to drill without it on the engine stand.

I was debating on just taking the pump off and looping the lines. I will try this first before I attempt to drill the block.

Sorry to HiJack your thread, but I hope some learn from my mistake!

- Mario

 

You will be placing a lot more stress on the parts on the input side of the gear, (i.e. the flex coupling, intermediate shaft, steering column, and steering wheel. All of the parts were validated at manual steering type loads. However, your parts have already had 30 some years of use.

The output side of the steering system won't know the difference between a power or a manual system (i.e. the pitman arm, linkage, tie rods, steering arms, etc.)

Jim

 

That is probably one of the smartest and truest statements I have heard on this forum in long time. How do I know ? Because I drove around for 2 years with manual steering on a power steering C3

 

I've been doing it since 2004, I'll let you know when something breaks or wears out.

 

Most likely, the hoses on your P/S system are the primary sources of leakage. And, they don't cost a lot of money. And, if changing those fix your leaks, the P/S pump won't go dry again.

Regardless of what others have told you, a car without a functioning P/S system will be much harder to steer [primarily at low speeds] than a manual steering C3. I know...I've had both. I would not recommend it for you or your car. But...you could get away with it for a week or two, as long as you try to limit the need for low speed, sharp turns (parallel parking, etc.).

 

glarior,
I'm sorry to hear about your faulty components, but i can offer you a cheaper and better solution. Sell your R&P set-up and use the money to buy a Borgeson integral power steering box. It will bolt in your car using the same three mounting bolts. You will need to buy a Drag Link Adapter to replace the control valve on your relay rod and you use your old Pitman arm. A new Borgeson rag joint to connect the box to your steering shaft, and the steering is done!

This will set you back about two thirds what your R&P unit cost you. With the money saved, you can buy a new pump and a two hose kit to connect it to your new steering box. These are all available from www.borgeson.com. The all up price will be about the same as just the rack unit alone from one of the major vendors, but it is a far superior system.

Several Forum members, including one in Australia, have fitted the Borgeson box, and I've not heard one bad word about it. You have no ground clearance issues that you'll have with a R&P set-up, no multi U-joint system to connect the steering shaft with the box, and it looks like it was put there at the factory.

At the very least, have a look at the website and ask around for Forum members who've fitted one before you start the teardown. Guys such as 682XLR8 in San Fran.

Regards from Down Under

aussiejohn

 

Let me know if you do need a PS pump, I have a few in stock right now

 

why is that? different gear ratio in the box?

can someone pull the part numbers for the different steering boxes for whatever year we're talking about here? or tell me where to find them and ill do it. a good look at the boxes (exploded diagram) and their specs should solve this question.

 

I don't recall that a manual steering system has a hydraulic cylinder full of oil that you have to overpower.

 

Thats an easy fix..

 

The second time my PS attempted to off me (had there been opposing traffic I wouldn't be sharing this), I got out and cut the belt and drove it about 10 miles home, where I promptly converted to manual steering. (With the valve stuck in full lock to the left, it was impossible to overcome the pump's power.) I don't recall it being any more difficult with the PS disabled than manual steering, but then my adrenaline was pumping too.

So, in a pinch you can most certainly drive it with the pump "off-line", but I wouldn't leave it that way any longer than necessary, whether you repair it or get rid of it. FWIW, if I ever go back with power assist the Borgeson box would likely be the leading candidate. My $.02