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I drove my '76 about 40 miles to a Corvette shop to have some wiring work done. Just as I'm approaching his place something near the right rear wheel starts clunking & shaking when I turn right. I ask the guy to have a look for me. He called today and said I need to have the rear end rebuilt, some clutch is worn out, about $1100 parts & labor. I 've never dealt with this guy or had rear end work done. Any opinions? Does this sound reasonable? Should I drive the car back home and seek other options? I'm really bummed about this
IIRC the only clutches are in the posi unit itself which is contained within the rear diff. If that is what is wrong with it.......get a 2nd opinion.
The quote you received to do the repair is roughly equal the cost of an entirely new diff assy with new gears, new seals, new HD cover, new bearings, new posi unit, etc, etc.......they cost around $800 - $1,100 +/- core charges for the part, depending on the vendor.........the IKERD site is down or I would have posted a link for you.
The labor is probably the same in both cases if he is suggesting for you to do just the posi unit, which as I showed, doesn't make sense AFAIK.
Food for thought.
Last edited by 10caipirinhas; Jan 22, 2010 at 05:31 PM.
Get a second opinion. My wife went to get a front end alignment and a tire, They tried to scare her into new tierod end, some other bushings and 4 tires. Second opinion, tierods and bushings were fine, just needed the alignment and a tire.
IIRC the only clutches are in the posi unit itself whcih is contrained within the rear diff. I'd make sure you had the correct fluid level in the diff first.
FWIW, the quote you received to do the repair is equal the cost of an entirely new diff with new gears, new seals, new bearings, new posi unit, etc, etc.......and they cost around $800 - $1,100 +/- core charges for the part, depending on the vendor.........the IKERD site is down or I would have posted a link for you. The labor is probably the same in both cases if he has to do just the posi unit. Food for thought.
If that is what is wrong with it........
The fluid level is okay, the tag on the fill plug was clean, the po had been in there recently.
I wish I had more info/knowlege about the problem. Like I said, the car is 40 miles away and I don't want to drive it much in its current condition
if it is just clutch chatter, then drive it home.. but it really could be a bad ujoint, bad bearing, bad bushing, or even scattered gears in your pumpkin that will totally tear up your pumpkin possible... but if it is bad clutch packs, shoot, just drive it.. won't hurt much..
Call yourself a tow truck. lot cheaper than 1000.00. Open it up and have a look. diff builders love bench work.Im sure you have the knowledge to reconize diff noise,and the ability to get it out of the car for someone to go through.
Is this Corvette shop any good? I mean do they have a real good reputation locally for quality work? Are they nationally known and sought after? If they are known for quality work and are offering the task for remove/replace and complete overhaul I think you are getting a real fair deal.
On the other hand, if they are just going to rebuild it by using all your old hardware and just do a simple overhaul kit ($175) type of rebuild and all the rest is labor......OUCH!!!!!
There are enough folks on here and info as well to make doing it yourself a reality, but are you up to the task? It isn't cheap or easy to do yourself. Locating the tools needed and the replacement parts is going to be a challenge as well. Something to think about.
Next step is a full body off restoration because you will do more things while you are in there: Ujoints, T/A's, SS brake stuff, bushings and the list will grow and grow.....
Good luck.
Are you sure the PO did the fluid change correctly with the proper additives?
By the way, if it is just the clutch pack itself then it is safe to drive. But it is hard to tell without removing the rear cover to make sure it isn't ready to explode.
Is this Corvette shop any good? I mean do they have a real good reputation locally for quality work? Are they nationally known and sought after? If they are known for quality work and are offering the task for remove/replace and complete overhaul I think you are getting a real fair deal.
They are listed in corvette Fever's top 100+ shops. He said the parts were $530, so I think its a full rebuild. I will definitely ask more informed questions before I decide. You guys are being very helpful. BTW, the shop is call Tidewater Corvette, anyone else ever dealt with them?
Here's several examples of the complete diff units I was talking about from just one vendor.........there are a lot of other reputable places offering them as well, in different degrees of completeness and specification (new, rebuilt, stock or HD, etc).
Thing is, now is your chance to consider if you want different rear end gears as well, since this is the chance to do it......if your ring and pinion is really worn, and/or it actually is your diff that needs repair.
Maybe a 3.55 or 3.70 is what you should install instead of the stock 3.08 you probably have, etc.....it's the cheapest performance boost you can get besides laughing gas, since you may have to open and repair your diff anyways.
Just thinking out loud.
Last edited by 10caipirinhas; Jan 23, 2010 at 09:40 AM.
I agree with the post above. Tow it back to your house, pull the rearend your self. I did it on mine. It was a great learning experience. Then order a new differential rebuild kit from one of the vendors along with the clutch pak for the posi unit assuming the unit is salvageable. Call around and get some quotes and find a shop to tear it down and rebuild it for you. Should not be more than 350-500 for labor assuming nothing internal is Fubar.
Also why your at it, might as well install some new U joints.
Good luck..
Remember you've got a 34 year old car there. I don't know how long you've owned it but I see you are new to this forum. Someone is going to have to work on that car regularly. If it's not you, then you need a good shop. I think that listing in Corvette Fever top 100 shops is comforting. You really need the total description of work and parts included in their quote.
If he is charging you to just R+R the posi unit........buy a new diff of your choice since a rebuilt posi is included and you'll get the gears you want for just a little it more oarts cost but maybekless labor. Chances are the whole thing could be worn out too and this was just a sign of things to come.
IMHO if it is a good shop, he'll tell you your 2-3 options and explain what I and the others here just did, with emphasis on the costs and benefits "to you".
If it is a churn and burn shop, he'll just try an charge you to rebuild the posi (if that's the problem) without going any further into explanations, and then once your diff is all apart you'll get the dreaded phone call......$$$$$......
FWIW magazines and other media companies charge for the placement of ads and consumer awards, etc, like "Top 100" etc.........IMHO these categorizations are worthless.
Good luck bud.......I am a noob here and was just reading about rear diff options/upgrades last week, since I plan on putting a much more powerful engine in the car I eventually buy and started putting 2+2 together.
Last edited by 10caipirinhas; Jan 23, 2010 at 01:32 PM.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-a...rd-member.html
I would offer a little less but you can change this out in about 8 hours by yourself and it will be a nice performance upgrade if you have the typical 3.08 now. You could sell yours as a rebuildable unit.
My opinion, from your description of the problem and the shops mentioning clutches, I would guess that the posi clutches are worn. The shuttering usually shows up after a 40 mile drive when the oil gets hot anyway. Seeing what year it is, they are notorious for eating rear yokes and rear wear, so it probably is in line for a rebuild, but at the same time, it probably has been that way for a long time and is not necessarily in need of immediate service. You might try changing the oil and additive and see if that solves the clutch chatter. If it does and the yokes are not too bad, the car can be driven until you get the money to do the job.