When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I installed my new adjustable strut rods this morning and got rid of the old Corvette Squat I have had for some time. First one took me about an hour and the second about 30 mins. Some advice. Before you dive in make sure you have the right one for each side. I didn't look and of course...I started installing the one marked "L" on the ride side. Pretty cut and dry install and adjustment.
Now if I can figure out what is happening with my fuel system. Sitting at 3 psi fuel pressure and dying and the back float still won't adjust. Would a leaking fuel pump cause low fuel pressure? I don't see any crimped hoses. Baffling.
Quick word of advice on strut rods......after about a month of driving, check the jam nuts and retighten if needed......they have a way of working themselves loose (unless you really put the gorilla grip on the initial tightening!)
Strut rods eliminate squat??? I thought they just held the camber adjustment.
Yes, got rid of every bit of it.My tires were pointing in at the top and now they are nice and straight.
C3 Stroker: Good tip about retightening the nuts down the road.
I have looked at the lines , bit the pump is leaking. I am attempting to get the pump replaced. GAS EVERYWHERE! I was careful, but it still gets everywhere no matter how you block the lines. And...I absolutely hate the smell of gas.
Yes, got rid of every bit of it.My tires were pointing in at the top and now they are nice and straight.
C3 Stroker: Good tip about retightening the nuts down the road.
I have looked at the lines , bit the pump is leaking. I am attempting to get the pump replaced. GAS EVERYWHERE! I was careful, but it still gets everywhere no matter how you block the lines. And...I absolutely hate the smell of gas.
I think you meant to say negative camber. squat is what happens when the rear end drops during a hard launch. Leaning in at the top is not that. The leaning is typically caused by worn axles or worn joints etc. You adjusted the camber out when replacing the struts but the root cause may still be there. Check the axle end play. What did you set the camber at?
I think you meant to say negative camber. squat is what happens when the rear end drops during a hard launch. Leaning in at the top is not that. The leaning is typically caused by worn axles or worn joints etc. You adjusted the camber out when replacing the struts but the root cause may still be there. Check the axle end play. What did you set the camber at?
Yes, the squat I am talking about was the reverse pigeon toed look it had. I have not set the camber yet. I am taking it to get it aligned when I finish replacing the fuel pump. I have had the axles checked, has new bearings and has new u joints. I installed the longer bolts to lower it some and that's when I noticed my squat. I am also installing the larger half shafts when they get here.
All you have to do is jack up the front or side of the car to where the removed lines are higher than the tank.
I figured that gravity was my friend here, but now I forgot to pull the bolt in the front of the block and replace with a longer bolt to hold the piston rod for the fuel pump and the piston dropped on me. It's been decades since I did one and forgot. Any ideas on how to get the piston rod up so I can install the pump. I read an article AFTER I took it off. Some mechanical spring loaded finger type tool in the article, but no one seems to know what I am talking about. Anybody got any ideas?
Marz,
I just redid my fuel pump and engine compartment lines. I used this....
Irwin Quickgrip
To gently crimp my fuel line coming from my tank. Plenty of room to get up there with one of these even with the spare tire. I just had a few dribbles from the line in the engine compartment and then only had to deal with the remaining fuel in the pump and pump-carb line. The rubber footies on the clamp protect the hose. You don't have to choke it to death. Just enough to seal it. I have a stock config under there and for all I know yours may be sumped and AN fitted, but for stock it works well.
Marz,
Put some bearing grease on the end of the fuel pump push rod that goes up in the motor. That will keep it stuck up there.
Roll the cam until the fuel pump rod is on the base circle of the fuel rod cam lobe to give you as much room as possible.
If you've done it right, you will feel some resistance when tightening the fuel pump bolts snug with the block. BUT BEWARE not to get the fuel pump shaft of the fuel pump alongside the fuel pump push rod. If you tighten everything then, it will bend the pump shaft.
Good luck.
If the grease doesn't work (it didn't for me), you can use a small plastic ruler, or some kind of metal strap to hold the rod up while you insert the new pump.