Replacing Headlight Switch on a 81
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,369
Likes: 79
From: West Coast
Replacing Headlight Switch on a 81
Has anyone easily accomplished this task or have any quick tips?
All of the instrumental is weak at best and flickers with rotating the switch assembly, so hopefully replacing will give some much needed improved lighting to the gauges.
From looking at the Haynes manual it looks like you have to pull out the Gauge Cluster and access from there, so is that really necessary or can you get it done easily from below with the vent duct moved ?
Easy task or pain in the a** and busted knuckles ?
Any tips are much appreciated!
All of the instrumental is weak at best and flickers with rotating the switch assembly, so hopefully replacing will give some much needed improved lighting to the gauges.
From looking at the Haynes manual it looks like you have to pull out the Gauge Cluster and access from there, so is that really necessary or can you get it done easily from below with the vent duct moved ?
Easy task or pain in the a** and busted knuckles ?
Any tips are much appreciated!
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,986
Likes: 21
From: Columbus MN
You do NOT have to remove the gauge cluster to replace the headlight switch on an '81. I've removed and reinstalled the switch on my '80 several times from below. It helps to remove the seat first so you can get your arm up there. Unless you have a power seat, you just need to remove 4 bolts to take the drivers seat out.
The most difficult task is to remove the **** and shaft from the switch. The shaft is held into the switch by a spring loaded button on top of the switch.
Push the button in all the way to release the shaft. The shaft/**** will just pull out once it is released. If you can find a picture of the shaft, you will see a grove near the end of the shaft. That's what the spring loaded button hangs onto to keep the shaft/**** in the switch.
Once the shaft/**** are out, I used a screwdriver to unscrew the retainer ring that holds the switch to the dash. The switch will drop down and you can remove the vacuum lines and connector.
The most difficult task is to remove the **** and shaft from the switch. The shaft is held into the switch by a spring loaded button on top of the switch.
Push the button in all the way to release the shaft. The shaft/**** will just pull out once it is released. If you can find a picture of the shaft, you will see a grove near the end of the shaft. That's what the spring loaded button hangs onto to keep the shaft/**** in the switch.
Once the shaft/**** are out, I used a screwdriver to unscrew the retainer ring that holds the switch to the dash. The switch will drop down and you can remove the vacuum lines and connector.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 7,032
Likes: 2
From: Newburgh NY
I'm gonna respectfully disagree with which method is easier. I can have an 81 Cluster out and the headlight switch in my hand in less time then getting the 4 seat bolts out and trying to reach up under the dash and get the connector disengaged from the switch.
With the cluster out you can also test and check both the switch, bulbs, circuit, etc. to see what the problem really is (do all the lights work?). Also note that the new replacement switches are junk. At least the ones that I have gotten from major vendors. I'd get a good used one from a boneyard but you probably can just clean up what you have and reuse it.
Do whichever method you are more comfortable with. Both ways will work. But if you put it back together and still have a problem you will end up having to pull the cluster anyway.
With the cluster out you can also test and check both the switch, bulbs, circuit, etc. to see what the problem really is (do all the lights work?). Also note that the new replacement switches are junk. At least the ones that I have gotten from major vendors. I'd get a good used one from a boneyard but you probably can just clean up what you have and reuse it.
Do whichever method you are more comfortable with. Both ways will work. But if you put it back together and still have a problem you will end up having to pull the cluster anyway.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 3,415
Likes: 290
From: dayton oh
I'm gonna respectfully disagree with which method is easier. I can have an 81 Cluster out and the headlight switch in my hand in less time then getting the 4 seat bolts out and trying to reach up under the dash and get the connector disengaged from the switch.
With the cluster out you can also test and check both the switch, bulbs, circuit, etc. to see what the problem really is (do all the lights work?). Also note that the new replacement switches are junk. At least the ones that I have gotten from major vendors. I'd get a good used one from a boneyard but you probably can just clean up what you have and reuse it.
Do whichever method you are more comfortable with. Both ways will work. But if you put it back together and still have a problem you will end up having to pull the cluster anyway.
With the cluster out you can also test and check both the switch, bulbs, circuit, etc. to see what the problem really is (do all the lights work?). Also note that the new replacement switches are junk. At least the ones that I have gotten from major vendors. I'd get a good used one from a boneyard but you probably can just clean up what you have and reuse it.
Do whichever method you are more comfortable with. Both ways will work. But if you put it back together and still have a problem you will end up having to pull the cluster anyway.
Unless you have 1st grader size hands, I've always pulled the inst cluster to get the headlight switch out - MUCH more access, BUT i wear XXL size gloves............................
YRMV
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,986
Likes: 21
From: Columbus MN
I'm gonna respectfully disagree with which method is easier. I can have an 81 Cluster out and the headlight switch in my hand in less time then getting the 4 seat bolts out and trying to reach up under the dash and get the connector disengaged from the switch.
With the cluster out you can also test and check both the switch, bulbs, circuit, etc. to see what the problem really is (do all the lights work?). Also note that the new replacement switches are junk. At least the ones that I have gotten from major vendors. I'd get a good used one from a boneyard but you probably can just clean up what you have and reuse it.
Do whichever method you are more comfortable with. Both ways will work. But if you put it back together and still have a problem you will end up having to pull the cluster anyway.
With the cluster out you can also test and check both the switch, bulbs, circuit, etc. to see what the problem really is (do all the lights work?). Also note that the new replacement switches are junk. At least the ones that I have gotten from major vendors. I'd get a good used one from a boneyard but you probably can just clean up what you have and reuse it.
Do whichever method you are more comfortable with. Both ways will work. But if you put it back together and still have a problem you will end up having to pull the cluster anyway.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,369
Likes: 79
From: West Coast
All the Lights/Guages work perfectly, just doesnt seem bright enough by modern day standards.
The rotating dimmer **** on the switch is touchy and nervous at best when turned so I figured the copper? is worn and a fresh switch may restore all power.
The switch was the new improved Hvy Dty version from major Ad vendor and was hopefully superior to OEM version?
The rotating dimmer **** on the switch is touchy and nervous at best when turned so I figured the copper? is worn and a fresh switch may restore all power.
The switch was the new improved Hvy Dty version from major Ad vendor and was hopefully superior to OEM version?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 782
Likes: 1
From: Magic Valley ID
All the Lights/Guages work perfectly, just doesnt seem bright enough by modern day standards.
The rotating dimmer **** on the switch is touchy and nervous at best when turned so I figured the copper? is worn and a fresh switch may restore all power.
The switch was the new improved Hvy Dty version from major Ad vendor and was hopefully superior to OEM version?
The rotating dimmer **** on the switch is touchy and nervous at best when turned so I figured the copper? is worn and a fresh switch may restore all power.
The switch was the new improved Hvy Dty version from major Ad vendor and was hopefully superior to OEM version?
And if you want brighter gauge lights, upgrade to a different bulb, even the small LED's will make a huge difference. A different set of headlamps will also greatly improve your night vision. Easy to do for the most part. Maybe not CHEAP, but easy nonetheless. Good luck!
Last edited by mydejavooo; Jan 30, 2010 at 06:56 PM.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,058
Likes: 27
From: Eastern North Carolina
I've tried removing the switch using both methods mentioned. You do have more room with the cluster removed and it not that much work. The worse part of reaching up from underneath is getting the switch connect off and back on, but it can be done......Tim
