When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
OK, I have a question, and really dont need anyones opinion that I should leave the computer alone......I can't leave anything alone...
I already have an HEI dist from an earlier non comp model, I already have a non comp controlled Quadrajet from a 79 that is in awesome condition. Now for the question....I know you should set the timing first before doing carb work(I have all of LArs papers), but when changing them both which should I do first? If I pull the dist will the comp do anything funny since it wont be hooked to the dist? I didn't know if it monitors a resistor or anything that richens or leans the E4ME. Or should I do the carb first, or just pull em both and tackle them at the same time? I would rather do the dist then the carb if it will work that way.....all ears,
Also on the 81 what are the two things plugged into the water neck for? I have the smog stuff removed and I think it is all a part of that, am I correct that I can remove that and put a more attractive neck on there with out the other crap plugged into it since we have no emissions or inspection checks here? Thanks! Jeff
(And I am ordering the BM controller for the lockup on the TC.)
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Set the carb up just enough so the engine will idle - just a rough idle rpm setting is enough. Then, set up your total timing and your timing curve. Once done, hook up your vacuum advance and then start tinkering with the carb. Only with timing in its final configuration can you set the carb up.
Cool! Thats what I will do. Whats a good base for amount of turns out for the two base mixture screws for a start? They have been adjusted prior to my owning it, but it all looks stock. I am thinking 3 out? Maybe 3.5?
I have an '81 too,two things plugged into the water neck are two switch for the smog stuff.
I have done your same work last month and I have follow the Lars procedure.
Pay attention for the right timing.
best thing i ever did was rip out that computer. the wiring weighed more then the actual computer and stretched from my house to hawaii . it all comes out in one big bundle and the part i have circled was the only connection wrired into the main harness but its not needed once the ccc is gone.that is in fact the big snake of wiring you can see on my floor you can get rid of those connections on your thermostat housing now and you can see them in my pic on the floor...its not that clear but you can see them . i pulled it through the firewall in one piece. when i set up my new dizz and carb i did it all together and just started from scratch like a new motor.
Last edited by gingerbreadman1977; Jan 25, 2010 at 07:24 PM.
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Originally Posted by 81pilot
Whats a good base for amount of turns out for the two base mixture screws for a start? They have been adjusted prior to my owning it, but it all looks stock. I am thinking 3 out? Maybe 3.5?
Depends on the year of the carb. If you have a 1966-1974 divorced choke carb, start with the screws 4 turns out. If you have a 1975+ integral choke carb, start at 6 turns out. This will run the mixture a tad on the rich side, but the engine will at least idle for you right off the bat - if you have them too lean, it will want to keep dying. Once you get timing set up, you can then set idle speed and optimize the mixture and lean it out.