Trailing Arm shims
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 166
Likes: 1
From: Las Vegas NV
Trailing Arm shims
I am replacing the entire suspension on my 69.
I only have the Trailing Arms in (what a pain that was).
I removed the following shims: DrvOutside=.434 DrvInside=.250 PasInside=.398 PasOutside=.262
The total DrvSide=.684 PasSide=.660
Does this sound right; or should I put .250 on each inner side and fill the outter sides until tight?
Also, should I install the rest of the suspension axle shafts, etc.. before I install the shims?
TIA
I only have the Trailing Arms in (what a pain that was).
I removed the following shims: DrvOutside=.434 DrvInside=.250 PasInside=.398 PasOutside=.262
The total DrvSide=.684 PasSide=.660
Does this sound right; or should I put .250 on each inner side and fill the outter sides until tight?
Also, should I install the rest of the suspension axle shafts, etc.. before I install the shims?
TIA
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 24,160
Likes: 78
You set the rear toe by packing the inside, then you snug it up by packing the outside, yes.
Your numbers look pretty normal. I don't know why you'd want to reset to 1/4"
If you still have the old bushing, get a measurement of the sleeve + washer width and compare it to the new one. If there's a difference, you'll need to make an adjustment to the inner stack by 1/2 of that difference. My poly bushings were slightly wider than the rubber bushings I took out.
As per intallation order, I'm sure you'll get varying opinions. I personally did the toe FIRST before hooking up anything besides the halfshaft. I just jacked up the hub until the halfshaft was level, flipped the rotor around backwards, and then held a string across it's surface as a reference line. And I think if I remember the writeup I read correctly, you want that string to be 1/8" closer to the frame rail at the front door seam than at the rear door seam. (Don't quote me on that) I did not have illusions about getting it perfect with no load, and the hub dangling like this, but it got it damned close. When I got everything buttoned up and set it back down the toe didn't change more than a nuthair on either side.
Your numbers look pretty normal. I don't know why you'd want to reset to 1/4"
If you still have the old bushing, get a measurement of the sleeve + washer width and compare it to the new one. If there's a difference, you'll need to make an adjustment to the inner stack by 1/2 of that difference. My poly bushings were slightly wider than the rubber bushings I took out.As per intallation order, I'm sure you'll get varying opinions. I personally did the toe FIRST before hooking up anything besides the halfshaft. I just jacked up the hub until the halfshaft was level, flipped the rotor around backwards, and then held a string across it's surface as a reference line. And I think if I remember the writeup I read correctly, you want that string to be 1/8" closer to the frame rail at the front door seam than at the rear door seam. (Don't quote me on that) I did not have illusions about getting it perfect with no load, and the hub dangling like this, but it got it damned close. When I got everything buttoned up and set it back down the toe didn't change more than a nuthair on either side.
Last edited by wcsinx; Jan 27, 2010 at 05:24 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 166
Likes: 1
From: Las Vegas NV
I’m a complete novice at suspension work. I just thought it should be symmetrical; and saw another post with .250 on both inner sides.
Surprisingly I understand your response and it makes sense to me.
Now I guess I need to buy a new Micrometer that will allow me to do the measurements. I’d rather spend a lot of money than pull out the TAs and go through that install again. Any tips on type of micrometer needed; or how to take the measurements while the TA is installed?
Thanks for the insight.
Surprisingly I understand your response and it makes sense to me.
Now I guess I need to buy a new Micrometer that will allow me to do the measurements. I’d rather spend a lot of money than pull out the TAs and go through that install again. Any tips on type of micrometer needed; or how to take the measurements while the TA is installed?
Thanks for the insight.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
Don't worry to much about it. You should get it aligned once you get everything new back in. They will set the toe. Just get it close and make sure the T arm is tight in there. A little bit off is not going to hurt anything for a couple of miles.
Cruising
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: Kouts Indiana
well as to what micrometer is the best I would go with Mitutoyo or Starret but if your just going to use it a few times i wouldnt spend the money....I would go to sears and buy one for 20 bucks they will read accurate for quite a while just make sure when you buy it run the micrometer all the way in and make sure it reads "0" when it is fully closed
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,992
Likes: 56
From: Antioch IL
just get it close to the way it was when pulled the shims out and once you take it in for the alignment they will se the toe for your set up.
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 245
Likes: 0
From: Long Island, New York
I just replaced the TA's (VanSteel) and put new SS shims in the same spacing as before, but they are very loose. I'll pack them tight, then bring fit or the rear alignment. Here's two shots of before and after with the offset TA's on the passenger side. 
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