I have read quite a few posts on this forum about removing trailing arms and I thought I would tackle that project next. I have successfully rebuilt the engine, the front suspension and the steering earlier this year. I came to the conclusion that it might be tough with all the rusting issues etc. I am happy to report that through reading this forum and some other advice that I was successful. I had no big issues at all, even the mounting bolt came out with a punch. I didn't even have to use any PB Blaster! I am going to have a pro install the bushings and press in the bearings etc. I am writing this to let others know that might be an amateur (like me) to go ahead a give it a try, you might be pleasantly surprised. Thanks to all who have posted in the past. It really helps!

 

Do let us amateurs know how that works out for you. I've heard SO many horror stories associated with trailing arms...that I am NOT looking forward to tackling the ones on my 76 project. And the cost to have them rebuilt?!! COUGH!! But, given the magnitude of the job, and the close tolerances that they have to be built to...I'd really like to have someone that knows what they are doing take care of that part of it. Good luck to you, and keep us posted.

Deja

 

I've read the occasional story about easy trailing arm removal but most stories tend to be of the 'nightmare' variety - mine included. Consider yourself to be one of the very lucky ones.



Rick B.

 

It's much easier to send your trailing arms to VanSteel for rebuilts. You send out rusty, crappy trailing arms and you get back shiny new-looking arms. The core refund depends on how good or bad your original arms are.



Rick B.

 

same for me.I was afraid myself but the members here gave me confidence.I'm happy to tell,all s done and good.I did eveything myself.Some members try to scare you.I just didn't have the cash.Not so bad.I've done harder jobs.

 

I believe the main ingredient is patience. I removed the arms on my '72 and replaced the bushing myself. I thought the bearings just needed a little grease but once they were out, it was obvious there were big problems. I bought the car in '78, drove it for 5 years and then put it in storage. It always had a rumble in the rear end but the previous owner had the bearings replaced so I thought the noise was normal. Whoever did the replacement had none of the required special tools, unless you consider a hammer a special tool. I managed to get the hub out but it was junk. VTech did the rebuild and provided the new hubs. Former 0.125 inch play is now gone. Hardest part of the job was packing the trailing arms for shipment. I don't have a left arm so I'd suggest any able bodied enthusiast (with a decent amount of patience) can do the job.

 

I am trying to remove rusted, seized swing arm bolt. How do you remove?

 

Were you able to get the shims out yet? If not get those out first. I tapped my shims up and down with a punch and a hammer and then gripped them with a vise grip and pulled them out working up and down while pulling. Then I took a wrench on the bolt head and worked it up and down. At that point, I took and punch and tapped on the bolt end where the nut was. As it went into the frame, I could shift the arm over and placed a socket behind it to keep it tight to the frame and then I could tap the bolt some more. It got to the point where the bolt was all the way into the arm. Then I took a smaller punch, inserted it inside the frame I used the ratchet end of an extension to place over the end of the punch and tapped away. As it entered the arm, it would guide itself through. Finally I was able to grip the head end of the bolt an pulled it out. I was very lucky that I did not have to used any PB blaster or such. If you have some penetrating oil use it first. What year is yours? I understand that 1968 and 1969 have shims that are harder to get out. Take the cotter pin out that holds the shims in place if you have a later model if you have not already. Good luck and take your time. Let me know how it goes. I got my arms dissembled enough to take them to get the spindles, etc. pressed out. Then I will get them sandblasted and painted. There is a place near me that lets you do your own sandblasting for $15 an hour. I was able to sandblast every part of my front suspension and steering for $30. After that I will have the corvette guy near were I live to reassemble the bearing and spindle for me. I will do the rest. I got the parking brakes apart today and even the adjusting screw was not seized up. What are the odds for that after 33 years?

 

In addition to patience, there's one important trick to getting the trailing arm bolt out (and back in). It's a Pickup Tool. I can't get my hand in the space where the bolt goes so holding it with one of these helps tremendously. Harbor Freight sells one for $2 but if you hate that place, just do a search on "Pickup Tool" and you can find the fancy ones (with add-on magnet and LED light) for $6 plus shipping. I've had this one since 1964 so I forget to mention how helpful it is.

 

I got one side of swims out ,heated bolt but will not move. also tried to saw zaw bolt with little afect,since bolt is hardened.am at stand still . Took every thing off swing arm.

 

Your not using a good blade. The cheapo ones will not cut the bolt. Get a GOOD bimetal blade for the job. An 18 tooth is the best to use but a 14 tooth will do also. A little cutting oil will help also.

 

Yes , I used name brand 18 tooth .did not use oil.bought 5 bldes will keep trying. Thank you

 

Not all name bands are treated the same most are junk.
The best that I have used are the Lenox titanium gold,
https://www.lenoxtools.com/enUS/Prod...NOX_Gold_.html
I'm in the construction trade and find these blades last the longest,
Be sure to use cutting oil or even Crisco lard (from the kitchen) to
keep the blade cool and lubricated.

Hope this helps,

Riggs.

 

Have you tried cutting the castelated nut? I'd drill a small, then larger and larger hole in one side of the nut and try to split the nut with a chisel (I know you can't get a splitter in there). The bolt is hardened but the nut may not be (I don't know but I'd give it a try, at least while I was waiting for better quality blades to arrive).

 

I don't think the nut is the problem.

Anyway, I removed the right side arm on my '69 over the weekend. I was lucky and just pushed the bolt out with a screwdriver. I hope the left side is that easy.

 

I cut out side of right swing arm bolt ,got shims out on outer side only working in inner swims ,they are moving up and down . usedanother NAME BRAND BLADE yes this time a Lenox brand Thanks.