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Been a long time. time to start putting it back together. I am think of rebuilding the engine and trans instead of doing a crate motor.
My Goal is as close to 400 hp (fly wheel) as possible.
is a stroker 383 as big as a 77 350 can go?
The L-82 just means different heads right? are they any good?
Block is goingine machine shop to be cleaned and checked out... where should i buy the kit or what should i look for in the kit? All new pistons? crank?
So using the stock block, replace heads/instake and carb
I would like to build it up to 9:0 or 9:5 - 1 compression
ideas, help?
thx
Last edited by Bullcrappy1; Feb 3, 2010 at 07:54 AM.
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
As for how large you can go with it you'll have to verify that with a more knowledgeable SB guy, but the L82's had 4-bolt mains, forged crank and decent rods, so the short block makes for a solid foundation on which to build a ~400 HP mill.
However, the '76 & up 2.02/1.60, 76cc, #462624 head castings have the well deserved (IMCO) nickname "crack-o-matics". BTW, for anyone who needs it, I have one good ...642 that needs to find a home.
The 350 can be stroked out to a 4 inch stroke or around 400 cubes. It gets very close in there at that point and takes a LOT of grinding to get there. Not all blocks will do this as some get to thin and you may hit water. The 396 is more doable but is pretty close also, the 383 is done with some grinding and is very easy to do and there are hundreds of kits out there for this. 400HP from a 383 is very easy. If you are replacing the crank rods and pistons already why not stroke it. If your crank and rods are good a 400 HP 350 is quite doable with good heads. Heads are where the power is made.
If your going to build a stroker have the block sonic tested before anything is done as we have not been having good luck with the GM castings lately, Just a couple weeks ago it took 4 blocks to fine one that was good enough for a performance build ( And the core shift appeared to be fine on all the block we choose from)
If you are looking for a torque monster a set of the 180 AFR's would be a good choice and 400 would not be a problem.
I am partial to the all forged rotators and so far no problems.
It really depends on how deep your pockets are and how much you want to spend on good machine work.
I went all forged but I also take it to 7000+ rpm. If you plan on a safe rpm you do not need forged. It was cheap insurance for me. At 400 HP you should be safe with a good cast steel crank and good rods and I would put in at least hyper pistons. I just don't like cast pistons. They are not that much more for good pistons.
396 would be nice, like the way it sounds lol. but i guess that depends on if my 77 block can take that much? i guess i will know more after the machine shop. 13 more ci from the 383 so i wouldnt think it would be that much..?
exceed the feet per minute? doesn't that directly relate to rpm?
thanks all
Originally Posted by gkull
3.875 stroker rotating kit from www.flatlanderracing.com the 396's kick 383's butt's. I do not even build 383's any more.
with a longer stroke you can exceed the feet per minute with cast and hyper pistons
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
What gkull means is that with longer strokes you will exceed the FPM limitations of lesser pistons (and rods and cranks, for that matter) at lower RPM's than with shorter strokes. I'd stick with forged pistons for your purposes, and go with 4032 alloy so you can keep piston/cylinder clearances down.
..exceed the feet per minute? doesn't that directly relate to rpm?
thanks all
Yes, and distance too. An engine with a 2" stroke running at 6k rpm isn't seeing the same piston travel and velocity as one with a 4" stroke running at 6k rpm. The overlap period, where the piston is zooming up the bore on the exhaust stroke, is where pistons want to keep on going and end up having their pins yanked out when the crank tries to move them down on the intake stoke. This is where cast pistons fail outside of detonation events and why they are rev limited.
396 would be nice, 13 more ci from the 383 so i wouldnt think it would be that much..?
Look at it this way: TQ goes up with a cubic inch increase. I have attended the all corvette drag races over the years. All well prepared 383s like mine making over 500 hp was able to click of 11.70's But the 396's with all the same intakes, heads, cams were clicking off 11.30 - 11.50's That is like 3-4 car lengths at the end of 1/4 mile.
So if it cost the same to build a 383 as a 396, why build an inferior motor that every body and his brother have?
Ok, and I agree with you... i just don't know if my block can go that big.
a 383 is accomplished with the same bore and more stroke. the 396 is bigger bore and stroke?
can a 1977 L82 350 handle that? is my block a 4 bolt main?
thanks again.
Originally Posted by gkull
Look at it this way: TQ goes up with a cubic inch increase. I have attended the all corvette drag races over the years. All well prepared 383s like mine making over 500 hp was able to click of 11.70's But the 396's with all the same intakes, heads, cams were clicking off 11.30 - 11.50's That is like 3-4 car lengths at the end of 1/4 mile.
So if it cost the same to build a 383 as a 396, why build an inferior motor that every body and his brother have?
It has been my experience grinding on blocks to clear the rod bolts that the bigger 4 inch strokers often need the lower part of the block filled with epoxy to seal the water jacket where it gets so thin.
So I never build 408 ci small blocks
4.030 X 4.00 = 408 ci
Ok, and I agree with you... i just don't know if my block can go that big.
a 383 is accomplished with the same bore and more stroke. the 396 is bigger bore and stroke?
can a 1977 L82 350 handle that? is my block a 4 bolt main?
thanks again.
The 383 is a 4.030 bore and a 3.75 stroke. The 396 is a 4.030 bore and a 3.875 stroke. So the bore is the same just a longer stroke.
so you just use a 350 block, right? I have a new ZZ4 350 block, Edelbrock crate motor, putting out 435hp/435tq at the flywheel. It has a 800cfm Thunder series carb - would an 800cfm Q-Jet be better? If so, Rochester Q-Jet or the Holley Q-Jet replacement(800cfm) Thanks for any info. BTW, someone else needed my origional motor worse than I did - it was stolen years ago, so the crate motor was my only option, and I want it like I always wanted a scalded dawg running motor! LOL!
Last edited by eagle275; Feb 4, 2010 at 06:14 PM.
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