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There is a good pump that I have run in most of my mild to semi wild motors which is known as the Z28 pump about 10 % more than stock, just has a stiffer spring in it.
I have a Z-28 pump in my garage. The width of the two pump gears is wider than typical pumps. To boost volume and pressure. All pumps that I use get opened up and ground and polished out with the tube brazed in place.
If you have a high end motor smart people somewhat restrict top end oil feed. They go to a NO bypass system with the stronger Wix filters that can take the pressure. They adjust oil pressure with the weight of the oil.
Like my 2001 FireBird uses 5W-30 and reads 60 psi going down the freeway
I also run my engine a guart high on breakin to aid in oil toss on the cam if its a flat tapet cam.But Im Im sure your dyno guy will take care of ya. Some people have different opinions on this Im sure but its worked for me.
My cam is a roller/and roller rockers....
My bypass is not blocked,,,,I want all the oil to go thru the filter,,,,
If you have a high end motor smart people somewhat restrict top end oil feed. They go to a NO bypass system with the stronger Wix filters that can take the pressure. They adjust oil pressure with the weight of the oil.
There are a lot of very smart engine builders out there who will tell you not to restrict the oil to the top end, at least on a Chevy motor.
I wont suggest that you shouldnt do what has been working for you, but it is by no means the only credible opinion out there.
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
If you're going to block the bypass, I suggest you give as much, if not more, consideration to filter flow as anything. Typical "brand name" filters with super-micro filtration (overkill) are usually also restrictive, so I'm uncomfortable with the idea of blocking the bypass without at least running a Moroso, or stepping up to multi-filters or a Canton canister. My solid-roller 427 BB build (should pick up the block from Dynotech next week!) will have a Moroso with bypass until I can budget for that Canton, as I really don't want to mess with the remote dual-filter setup again. At least that's my story, and I'm sticking with it...
There are a lot of very smart engine builders out there who will tell you not to restrict the oil to the top end, at least on a Chevy motor.
I wont suggest that you shouldnt do what has been working for you, but it is by no means the only credible opinion out there.
The key word is Somewhat............. drilled out restrictors like .100 or .110 just keep the flow to what the aftermarket blocks have done. On our Fords at the race shop we drill and tap cam valley. Then install tubing to get more oil to where it is needed
My bypass is not blocked,,,,I want all the oil to go thru the filter,,,,
How do I block the bypass ??
Thanks
If you dont know how,I would suggest you just purchase one, there about twenty dollars. by the time you bought the items to tap the factory one you can buy one straight out and spend less money. If you need part numbers let me know..
I run a big block melling oil pump in my small block 350. 60 psi at idle, 75 psi off idle to redline. I also have a seven quart oil pan and I run a big oil cooler in the nose of the car. I also run a big tall 1 to 1 1/2 quart filter.I know I'm giving up horsepower, but when I converted to the hydrualic roller cam, I polled this forum on whether or not to toss the big block pump. The overwhelming answer was, "it ain't broke, don't fix it." I did have to make some valve cover baffles for my AFR heads. The oil was comming out of my breather. I'm no engine builder, but I did build this engine. Other opinions and your results may vary.
Bee Jay
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