With the temp supposed to rise into the low 70's this weekend I am going to try and apply the dp90 primer sealer. I called the distrubutor and they have everything thta I need in stock from the cleaner degreeser to the hardener. After reading Lars's paper for the 100th time i am a little confused as to why he reduces the DP when the manufacturer and distributer do not recommend it. What are you all's past experience with this? Also when using the DX330 cleaner\degreeser, what is the best way to use it to ensure thorough coverage? Do you poor it in a bucket and then wipe the car down or poor it from the container onto a rag and go from there? :cheers:

 

I used the DP50, I think that the DP90 is just another base color of the sealer. The DP50 is grey. I found Lars's directions on mixing the same as on the can. Get some of the small plastic mixing cups. Figure out your ratios and pour the DP90 from the can into a quart cup. Then use a small cup and measure out the reactor and mix with the DP90, then mix in a couple of oz's of the correct thinner. The thinner will let it flow better thru the gun. This stuff sprays great, but make sure you use a good face mask. I never could have done all of this without lars. Go to my web site and click on Corvette Painting Pic's and see my car as it was being primed. I also used the K36 surfacer. The surfacer needs to be sprayed on top of the DP90 with in a couple of hours of spraying on the DP90. lars just told me to have a couple of beers then spray the K36. Good Luck.

 

Thanks Paul, I will check out your web site. The DP90 is the same as the DP50 only it is black. My final collor will be black so I wanted to get an idea of how much work if any will be needed before final paint so that the black b\c doesn't show tons of waves and defects. How much K36 and DP did you use? Does the paint store have the mixing cups that you are referring to? I plan on going tomorrow and getting all of my supplies.

 

Wade, I defer to Paul on the primer questions since I didn't use PPG products.

On the cleaner/degreaser, here's the best way to do it. You want to avoid moving contamination around on the car with your rags. Put the cleaner in a spray bottle and spray one area on the car at a time. Use clean paper towels to remove the cleaner from where you've sprayed it. Then throw those towels away and use new paper towels on the next section. Paranoia in this area is OK, since you want to be sure there is no contamination on the surface before you shoot the primer. Go over the car twice and you'll be OK. That cleaner isn't too expensive, and it's cheap insurance to make sure that you've got a good clean surface.

Shannon

PS - I'll be down at the in-laws in a couple of weekends. I'll shoot you a mail to see if we can get together.

 

Thanks Shannon, definately drop me an e-mail or give me a call when you get into town.

Wade

 

Wade, how 'bout a link to Lars' paper on this? I missed that somehow...

Hans

 

Here's the link to Lars's paper: https://www.corvetteforum.com/techti...=111&TopicID=3

Here's the link to a old thread where I posted the entire list of materials for my paint job: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=205923

 

Thanks, Paul :cheers:

Hans

 

I use PPG product exclusively. DP90 is a two-part epoxy primer, which can be used as a sealer by using a reducer like 870. When using the DP primers as a filer, reducer isn't needed. The number on the reducer relates to the temperature you will be painting in. Becarefull shooting epoxy primer it’s very nasty stuff and you should have positive breathing device. This primer is great stuff. I've used it a lot over the years on boats and Corvettes. When using cleaners like 330, never pour from the container to your rags, always pour into a separate container when and change rag frequently. Good Luck! The picture of my vette below was painted with DP50 primer w/ red Durethane and 82U clear coats.






[Modified by vettedan, 11:29 AM 3/7/2002]

 

I've never thinned DP primer and haven't had a problem with it.
I like to have a friend help with degreasing. If you ever forget to degrease you will know why some of us take it really seriously. I go around the car with the wet rag and wipe the crap on. My helper follows closely behind and wipes it off. We get new rags for each panel. Then we do it all over again only this time I get the dry rags. You can't over-degrease a car before paint work!

 

The above advice is all good. I had the same question a few months ago when I was going to apply my DP epoxy primer. After some haggling on this forum, Lars sent me some info direct from PPG that says if you are using the DP as a sealer to reduce it, if you are using it as a primer not to reduce it. Follow Lars paper and you'll be alright. Do you have proper fresh air and exhaust fans for the area you are painting? That's probably the most critical part.

 

I am going to be doing the entire job in my garage. I plan on sealling have of it off with plastic and put box fans in 2 windows and use cardboard to seal up the opening on the side of the fans. As for the mask i have a new 3m dual canister charcoal style that I picked up from Harbor tools. Any advice or suggestions, or other precautions I should consider?

 

If you’re shooting urethane, 3m dual canister charcoal will not be enough to protect your lungs. I use a positive breathing device. Urethane is very NASTEY stuff. Read PPG spec sheet. Alway lightly wipe down your vette with a tack rag before shooting.
Dan :cheers:


[Modified by vettedan, 1:55 PM 3/7/2002]

 

What is a positive breathing device, where do you get it, and what does it cost?

 

It's essentially a hood with a separate air supply unit which passes you clean uncontaminated air to breathe. Them isocyanates are wicked stuff, and can make you really sick. I think you can get a hobbyair system through http://www.autobodystore.com for about $350. Check out the discussion board over there to understand the issues of breathing in fumes from catalyzed urethane paint.

Shannon

 

Wade,

I'm just finishing up my first ever attempt at painting. I relied on Lars paper, some tips from Vettefixer, and a ton of help from videos and the board at http://www.paintucation.com ....Kevin who runs the site is very cool and helpful, and has had some of his work on shows like "Trucks TV"...so he does quality stuff.

You can get any of the specs for ppg products strait from their site http://www.ppg.com/cr-refinish/phase...roductinfo.asp

Although I didn't use DP90 in my job...I know that the reducer is if you are doubling it up as a sealer.

For My job I used the NCP primer surfacer series, NCS2004 Sealer, DBC Torch Red Base Coat, and Omni 161 Clear reduced 10% with DT870 after some assurances from Kevin that it was practically identical to the top line stuff but saved considerable bucks.

I also found some articles in car craft very helpful, and they did a thing on building a booth at home. I used Plastic Sheeting and army of box fans and flour. lights.

Everything everyone has said on the DX330 is my experience as well...just use plenty of clean fresh towels to keep the contamination down. I liked the spray it on with a bottle approach too.

I also used the Dual Charcoal Cartridge mask from 3M (a couple actually). Its important with all the products BUT ESPECIALLY THE CLEAR...WHICH IS BY FAR THE MOST LETHAL. A good tip Kevin showed, was to take some of that strong car fragrance spray bottle stuff, and after you put your mask on, spray that in the air right in front....if you can smell it, you need to adjust the mask until you can't detect it.

I just bought a scanner and hope to have a web site up soon detailing my first experience. I'm color sanding and buffing out the rear clip now and that'll just about do it. Not perfect...but I learned a ton...and overall the car looks pretty good. I hope to have another project to try again here in a few years.. One thing for sure I'll do next time, is find a sealer that either comes in the color I'm painting the car or can be tinted close to it. Didn't take long to get a chip, and it would be nice to have the same color sealer underneath as opposed to gray in my case.

 

Quote"What is a positive breathing device"Quote

It's a pump that put fresh air into your mask. There are a few companies that sell them. Eastwood catalog carries a brand. Surf the web and you'll find a few. I don't mean to scare you, but urethane paint is dangerous stuff. The old lacquer paint over spray dries fast in the atmosphere where as urethane paint over spray stays wet and can enter your blood stream through your lungs. The hardener is the where the danger lies. Clear coats seem to be the worse. Also wear a portable paint suit. It will protect your skin. Any paint shop caries them. They’re cheap.
Dan



[Modified by vettedan, 2:20 PM 3/7/2002]

 

I Agree that the fresh air sys is by far the safest and the way to go if you can spare the extra $350. But I was very concerned about safety too (A huge topic on http://www.paintucation.com about this), and after doing research seemed to feel pretty comfortable using the charcoal mask, but doing the step I outlined with the car fragrance to ensure it sealed properly. And yes a paint suit, gloves, head sock and goggles (things can easily enter through the eyes) are all things you should do. All of these items are relatively cheap.