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Old Feb 7, 2010 | 12:40 PM
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Default parking brake guts

hey guys i need to replace the parking brake guts on the rear. i have the rotors off because im replacing them and most of the springs and other dodads for the parking brake fell out. i ordered the stainless steel hardware kit and pads from ecklers and should be in tomorrow. now i just need to know how to do this properly. any tips advice or step by step instructions?


81 Corvette
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Old Feb 7, 2010 | 12:55 PM
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http://www.corvettemagazine.com/tech...e-rebuild.html
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Old Feb 7, 2010 | 07:11 PM
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The most important thing you need is patience, grasshopper.

Good luck, it is do-able but definitely tests your mettle
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Old Feb 7, 2010 | 09:41 PM
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one trick i used from the forum, compress the 2 small pin springs in a vise and tie them compressed with fishing line, then install them, when in position burn the f/line with a lighter.to retain them.
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 08:09 PM
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well i finished the project today. and i am 99% sure the c3 corvettes we designed and engineered by mean hearted people that wanted to make the most annoying car to work on...ever!
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by ScottMH
well i finished the project today. and i am 99% sure the c3 corvettes were designed and engineered by mean hearted people that wanted to make the most annoying car to work on...ever!
That made me laugh!
You finished the parking brakes and didn't go 'postal'! Congratulations.
How about getting to the fuse box?
Change dash lights?
I think the worst is the rear bearings.
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 06:03 AM
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Originally Posted by ScottMH
hey guys i need to replace the parking brake guts on the rear. i have the rotors off because im replacing them and most of the springs and other dodads for the parking brake fell out. i ordered the stainless steel hardware kit and pads from ecklers and should be in tomorrow. now i just need to know how to do this properly. any tips advice or step by step instructions?


81 Corvette
Use a small hook to pull the springs in place.
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by petes74ttop
That made me laugh!
You finished the parking brakes and didn't go 'postal'! Congratulations.
How about getting to the fuse box?
Change dash lights?
I think the worst is the rear bearings.
haha nah havent had the pleasure of those jobs yet...
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 08:34 AM
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although i am about to change the oil pressure gauge. any tips and tricks for that?>
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 08:43 AM
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be careful when you pull out the wire harness from the gauge cluster. when i changed the light bulbs in mine i did not notice that the thin sheet of copper (not having the correct name for it) separated from the plastic backing and came into contact with another. when i turned the lights on one of the gauges went crazy so i had to remove it the cluster panel again. have fun and be patient remember the plastic and wires are 29 years old . with time thngs seem to get brittle.
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by speedreed8
one trick i used from the forum, compress the 2 small pin springs in a vise and tie them compressed with fishing line, then install them, when in position burn the f/line with a lighter.to retain them.
That's the part that c-blocked me. I got so frustrated trying to get the rearward keeper spring installed that I just gave up, put all the parts in a bag, and decided to fab something up using those independent p-brake calipers that you see on a lot of German cars. Stay tuned.
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 02:07 PM
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Default Best tip I received

If you are not in a hurry, put a small dab of silicone on the base of the pins and tape them in an "outward" position to dry. This gives you the third hand you will be looking for when you put the shoes on. Slide the springs that you compressed with dental floss over the pin and put the slotted retaining washer on the pin. Flame the dental floss and your good to go. I actually enjoyed the project
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by ragtop00
I actually enjoyed the project
you are a sick sick man
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 08:32 PM
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When I had my rear parking brakes replaced by Kenny (RIP) at Tom's Differential, he said that if you install new SS parking brake parts and install a new rotor, you should use the factory STEEL brake pads. The SS brake part kits, with SS pads, are for used rotors. The SS pads have an enlarged radius that assumes the rotors are worn. He said they don't fit well with new rotors.

I don't know the veracity of Kenny's comments. I have SS parking brake components with the OEM steel pads. They work fine.

Just a FYI.
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 08:47 PM
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I haven't heard about the fit issue of SS shoes. Chamfer the edges to avoid hangup.
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Old Feb 10, 2010 | 12:59 AM
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How about just cutting big notches in the brake shoes so you can access the retainers? Most of us would only potentially use the parking brake once a year anyway to pass inspection.
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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 12:00 PM
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hey guys i have a problem. i cant get the parking brakes to hold like i want them to. if i apply the parking brake it hold to the point that i cant push it but it will not hold the car from moving if i put it in drive of reverse. i have the adjustment on the cable all the way back and i have turned the stars a few time but it doesnt seem to help. any ideas?
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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by ScottMH
hey guys i have a problem. i cant get the parking brakes to hold like i want them to. if i apply the parking brake it hold to the point that i cant push it but it will not hold the car from moving if i put it in drive of reverse. i have the adjustment on the cable all the way back and i have turned the stars a few time but it doesnt seem to help. any ideas?
The parking brake even in perfect condition does not work great!
Secure the rotor with the lug nuts.
Pull screw driver up from floor until rotor is tight, then back off 7 to 9 clicks.
Final adjustment is done with the cables.
Pull up on parking brake handle, it will hold car from rolling on 14th click.
If you need more then 14 clicks the cables may be stretched, but even with new cables it still will not hold that good.
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