I rebuilt my 327 about 3 years ago and am now thinkng of storing it and building a 406. I have looked at kits, parts and turn key engines but would really like to have my hands in it as opposed to buying one.
My target is 500 TQ and 500 HP under 6000 RPM. I will not be going to the track.

Plan to start with a late model roller block and install a 4 inch crank. Is it true I may have a hard time finding a block that is a good candidate for clearencing?

Would it be crazy for me to try to clearence it myself? (never done that but untill 3 years ago I never rebuilt an engine either)

Suggestions on a donor vehicle? ( 90's truck with 383?)

 

The small block 400 engines had a 3.75 inch stroke. The block itself was unique in that it allowed a bore big enough to yield 400 CI. Also, Chevy never produced a 383 small block from the factory.

 

You likely will not get 500 ft-lbs of torque from a 400 cu in engine. For that kind of power with less than 6000 rpm you'd best go to a BB engine.

 

Not to disagree with 7T1vette, but there have been a few builds that got 420hp and over 500ft-lbs on vortec heads, this link being most memorable. http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...que/index.html Make no mistake either it is not exotic parts thrown together, very simple build that could be a little better with a hyd roller cam and a good valve job bowl blend.

 

Mine has been dinoed at 530...with 575hp at 6.300rpms, and it's a 406.

 

I stand corrected... :o

 

Panic, did you use a 400 block or 350?
By the way, T&L sells one for $4700

 

You are thinking 350ci block with 4 inch crank, much easier with 400ci block and 3.75in crank, no clearancing needed. My previous 406ci made 550HP and 510ft/lbs but you need the correct parts. Big head that flow at least 280cfm and mine had a solid roller with 240-250 duration @ .050" and over .600" lift.

Can be done but not as easy or inexpensive as most think. Don't even think about numbers on ebay crate motors. Find a shop near you and tell them what you want to do and talk it over with them, you can still build it yourself, good luck

 

I would like to see someone build this.
I would go with this block.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dart-...item2c52909702
3.875 stroke 4340 forged Callies Compstar internally balanced crank, 6" Callies Compstar rods, 5 cc Flatop custom forged pistons with a 1.085 compression height (+.025). This gives you a zero deck block without decking and gets the piston pin out of the lower ring groove, 75 cc AFR 210 eliminator heads, .040 thickness 4.200 bore gasket you are at 415 CI, 10.5 to 1 compression, .040 quench, No machine work other than honing and cleaning the block. Accepts factory roller cam, no block clearancing required. Here is the cam used with 1.6 rockers. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-22046/ Should get close to 600 HP and 550 Ft Lbs of torque at 6000 RPM for about what a 383 build with a factory block, machining and retro roller would cost and be rock solid dependable, maintenance free and run pump fuel. I have been thinking about building these as a crate engine. Bet I can sell them.

 

Are you saying that the Dart SHP block will accept a 3.875 crank without any clearancing? I thought any crankshaft larger than a 3.75 would require some clearancing. How can I verify this? I recently bought an SHP block and I was told it would need to be machined to accept a larger crank.

 

What would it cost to build this?? Approximate....

 

The link I posted says 3.875. The Compstar rods are stroker clearanced and my factory block required very minimal clearancing in my 383. I have not built one of these so minor clearancing could be needed. Don't know until you test fit one. Stroke is only .125 bigger so how much clearancing could it be?

 

Block, freeze plugs, cam bearings, shipping $1610, Heads $1500, Cam kit $500, Crank, rods, pistons balanced $2200. Not cheap but nice and a solid build that should pull really hard from 1500 to 6000 RPM. Use comparable parts and a used block and add up the cost of a 383 build with machining and a retro roller. You could use cheaper parts and cut costs but you get what you pay for at this power level in a small block.

 

that is very close to my 396 build. if i had not had such a good block i would have liked to go this route. as it is i am more than happy with my 396. basically the same build but with a 4.030 bore. my cam is ever so slightly bigger but not by enough to notice. this would be a great build.

 

63Mako, Very interesting build. What could I salvage from my 327?
Edelbrock single plane intake (EDL 5001)? Will the acceries from the 327 work? Fuel pump, water pump, distrib?

 

That Dart SHP is a 400ci block with 350 mains. That is what my Motown block is, but it is a little more expensive. It accepts a 4 inch crank with no clearancing, might want to look at that, I am happy with mine

Why stop at 406ci ?

 

My initial post was to take a 350 block and see if I could go to 406. If I were to spend the cash on the SHP block, no , I wouldn't stop at 406.
Decisions, decisions, decisions...

 

By the time you buy a core block, clearance, deck, bore, hone, align bore and hone mains and the cost difference of a retro roller your about a wash on price buying the SHP block. You get priority main oiling, splayed mains, bigger bore, and can use a factory roller cam and a stronger, better machined block made with better quality iron to tighter tolerances with a flat deck and extra webbing at critical areas. Your accessories will all bolt on. You could use your intake if you port match it but I would go with a dual plane that already matches the ports on the heads. I think Weiand makes one that fits under the hood. The build I described is a 6000 RPM build that will pull from just off idle, good vacuum, low maintainance torque monster. I like high RPM motors but I am also cheap and realistic. RPM's kill engines. Having similar power and big block style torque available in a 6000 RPM and under hydraulic roller build that pulls throughout the entire RPM range is not a bad option for a street build. Not having to slip the clutch to take off, pull 7000 RPM to get full power and be able to be in the powerband under 2000 RPM at cruise is priceless in a street engine.

 

Perhaps an assembled short block from a reputable builder would be worth considering?

 

I have to agree the SHP block is the way to go!!! Last month we went through four 350 blocks to find one that would sonic test good and I don't know what he paid for the short blocks but by time I striped them to sonic test he had 200.00 in time and sonic testing now theirs 800 dollars to find a good block, Now it needs caps as its a 2 bolt main, now buy the time you by caps line bore and line hone, cut the registers and drill and tap for splayed caps, line bore, line hone, stroker clearance, deck, bore and plate hone. he could have bought a Dart block all machined and still had money left over.

A lot of guys from this site sure have jumped on the SHP blocks.

We build alot of cirlce track engines that run up to 7800 all nite long and some of the 2 barrel engines run 6800 and some go for 2 or 3 years before we see them back and RPM don't seem to kill these engines if they are built right that should last for a long time.