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Tach quit working on a cold day of last run of the season with my '69. I'm guessing it's the cable. Probably not touched for 25 years.
Any suggestions or tips on getting the old cable out and the new one in?
Would like to keep disassembly of dash to a minimum.
Thanks
Tach quit working on a cold day of last run of the season with my '69. I'm guessing it's the cable. Probably not touched for 25 years.
Any suggestions or tips on getting the old cable out and the new one in?
Would like to keep disassembly of dash to a minimum.
Thanks
Tach quit working on a cold day of last run of the season with my '69. I'm guessing it's the cable. Probably not touched for 25 years.
Any suggestions or tips on getting the old cable out and the new one in?
Would like to keep disassembly of dash to a minimum.
Thanks
I agree it's probably the gear. You can check the cable by disconnecting at the distributor if it's broken the broken section will pull out. If it's not broke you can check the tach itself by spinning the cable with a drill while someone watches the tach. Once you eliminate the cable and tach it's gotta be the gear.
Agree. have a 69 L46 and replaced the gear 2 or 3 times. Gear was stripped. Have a new one as a spare. Once the engine kicked backwards when shutting it off and the gear stripped.
I believe they are talking about the gear on the distributor. There is another thread out there today where 7T1 discusses how to check the gear.
If it turns out to be the cable, there are lots of threads on how to swap it. The best tip, however, is to remove the driver's seat first, as it makes working under the dash much more comfortable.
Agree. have a 69 L46 and replaced the gear 2 or 3 times. Gear was stripped. Have a new one as a spare. Once the engine kicked backwards when shutting it off and the gear stripped.
But, if it is the gear, you are wasting your time and money just changing the gear. The shaft and gear need to be changed as a pair or you are in for more trouble. If the gear goes, it takes the shaft with it. If you just change the gear, it will self destruct in no time.
What commonly happens is the driven gear wears into the back of the distributer housing until the gear teeth makes contact with the casting and stops which causes it and the shaft gear to strip. If the housing is worn by the gear you will have to install a brass repair button thats available from all the catalogs.
I took the top dash pad off and replaced it from above. You still have to have strong fingers to do it that way. Even so, they will still cramp on you.
Thank you all. I am installing a new MSD pro billet distributor with a 6AL box. I checked the cable after taking the old dist. out and it didn't pull out. Good. Put a drill to it and my buddy said the tach was working. Better. I'll lube the cable and hook it up to the new dist. and keep my fingers crossed. I used a universal mounting bracket from Summit for the box and mounted it on the fender well behind and below the expansion tank. Like how that came out. I'll wire it now and see if the sheilding box will fit over the dist. and coil, I hope so...
It seems like I'll need to notch the shielding box bracket to allow for a straighter run of the tach cable. Oh well.