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This is one of the pistons from one of my engines.
As you can see, there is some very small and fine "lines" on all the pistons, will this give me problems?, do i have to change all my pistons?
Those are probably just scratches that were put on the pistons from installing them. But, they could be cracks. You need to clean the surface and look at them with a magnifying glass; then, if you still can't tell for sure, use some dye-penetrant & developer to see if is a crack [or not]. How old are they? Are you wanting to re-use them? If they have many years service on them, you should probably replace them with new pistons.
Not attempting to hijack the thread but I was thinking about the oem dome pistons from the L46/LT-1 earlier this week. I now see why the L46 was rated at 350 ghp. The domed pistons along with the 64cc heads give it it's 11.0:1 CR. Can these domed pistons be ordered? I'm talking about domed pistons with the EXACT shaped dome. I also understand the cam from the L46 is the same cam Chevy put in the L82 engine in 1973. Btw, were you experiencing detonation while driving?
Last edited by Oldguard 7; Mar 14, 2010 at 04:13 PM.
You need to check the piston skirt clearance/wear to the cylinder bores. I would bet it is over 0.006" when factory high side specs are around 0.0045" of clearance.
For the $$$ Mahle piston kits are the best bang for the $$$ in todays market. Speed Pro still makes this piston in India with the old USA tooling but, they have earned themselves a bad reputation after initial quality problems, maybe things have gotten better but, I wouldn't spend my money on being a guinea pig for them.
KB, SRP, Weisco and other piston makers still have USA production lines running, that is where I would spend my $$$ for any motor I was building.
You need to check the piston skirt clearance/wear to the cylinder bores. I would bet it is over 0.006" when factory high side specs are around 0.0045" of clearance.
For the $$$ Mahle piston kits are the best bang for the $$$ in todays market. Speed Pro still makes this piston in India with the old USA tooling but, they have earned themselves a bad reputation after initial quality problems, maybe things have gotten better but, I wouldn't spend my money on being a guinea pig for them.
KB, SRP, Weisco and other piston makers still have USA production lines running, that is where I would spend my $$$ for any motor I was building.
I purchased my rotating assembly with some KN pistons and they look pretty good.
What are the cam specs? It is a hydraulic roller right? If so you will need to drop compression. The hydraulic rollers are all designed to run umder 6500 RPM. The duration is usually not enough to run 11 to 1 on pump gas. If you have stock pistons you will need to go oversize. Haven't seen a 40 year old engine yet that has so little wear you can get by without boring it. Torque plate hone will be a must also.
What are the cam specs? It is a hydraulic roller right? If so you will need to drop compression. The hydraulic rollers are all designed to run umder 6500 RPM. The duration is usually not enough to run 11 to 1 on pump gas. If you have stock pistons you will need to go oversize. Haven't seen a 40 year old engine yet that has so little wear you can get by without boring it. Torque plate hone will be a must also.
It is Comp Cams 12-466-8 I have, with Comp Cams roller lifters.
It was the std. 69 L46 cam that was in the engine.
You need to check the piston skirt clearance/wear to the cylinder bores. I would bet it is over 0.006" when factory high side specs are around 0.0045" of clearance.
For the $$$ Mahle piston kits are the best bang for the $$$ in todays market. Speed Pro still makes this piston in India with the old USA tooling but, they have earned themselves a bad reputation after initial quality problems, maybe things have gotten better but, I wouldn't spend my money on being a guinea pig for them.
KB, SRP, Weisco and other piston makers still have USA production lines running, that is where I would spend my $$$ for any motor I was building.
If you don't have the cam yet.. Have it ground on a steel billet core with a pressed on iron dizzy gear.. It is only about $40 extra and definitely worth the peace of mind.. I would be scared to use that cast core!
What are the cam specs? It is a hydraulic roller right? If so you will need to drop compression. The hydraulic rollers are all designed to run umder 6500 RPM. The duration is usually not enough to run 11 to 1 on pump gas. If you have stock pistons you will need to go oversize. Haven't seen a 40 year old engine yet that has so little wear you can get by without boring it. Torque plate hone will be a must also.
It is stock piston.
If I deside for new pistions (and I think I will) what about a stroker kit?
How big can a stroker kit be in a std. 1969 SB engine?
And if don't want a "made in Chain" or top $ US kit, what is the best buy then?
It is stock piston.
If I deside for new pistions (and I think I will) what about a stroker kit?
How big can a stroker kit be in a std. 1969 SB engine?
And if don't want a "made in Chain" or top $ US kit, what is the best buy then?
With that cam you will need to be under 10 to 1. This is a great kit for the $. The crank and rods are forged in China, Machined in USA. Callies quality control is very good and no worries with this setup. It is a 383 kit and it will require minimal clearancing on the block. Callies rods are stroker clearance and they will clear that cam with a standard base circle. It will need to be balanced. I like to have it done locally if you have a shop capable of doing it there. http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/produ...86&CtgID=28765
That is a very nice kit.
How big can I go with me std 350 engine?
You can go 396 3.875 stroke crank but it requires more clearancing. A 4" stoke is available but I wouldn't go there on a factory block. The 383 is a solid build and won't require much clearancing. Any bigger gets into small base circle cam, oil pan clearance issues, excessive clearancing that does weaken the block or could break through into a water jacket. Also your piston compression height gets short if you go with a longer than stock rod which would really be a good idea.
Before you get carried away buying parts the block should be inspected in the bores for taper and to see exactly what size pistons to order....if they are even necessary. The ring lands on your original pistons will help decide if they are even acceptable for a new stock bore engine block...Your original will probably need a bore or hone to .030 over after the pistons have been acquired...or determined if pistons are needed.
It may not need anything if your lucky...or at least very little in parts
Before you get carried away buying parts the block should be inspected in the bores for taper and to see exactly what size pistons to order....if they are even necessary. The ring lands on your original pistons will help decide if they are even acceptable for a new stock bore engine block...Your original will probably need a bore or hone to .030 over after the pistons have been acquired...or determined if pistons are needed.
It may not need anything if your lucky...or at least very little in parts
You need to measure bore and taper. I would say 95% plus will clean up fine @ .030 overbore if it has stock pistons in it now. Haven't seen a 40 year old original engine yet that has so little wear you can get by without boring it. Torque plate hone will be a must also.