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Nope, no adapter. I am clamping the hose to the inlet directly in front of that lip on the radiator inlet so that, in theory, if it were to slide back the lip should catch it, but even after tightening the clamp with a 5/16 wrench it still pops right off. -Neal
WOW. The hose diameter has to be to large if it slips off.
Last edited by dannyman; Mar 14, 2010 at 10:31 PM.
Reason: sp
That is amazing. I have not seen that unless car was overheating and rad. cap could not release pressure fast enough. Poss. try cleaning all paint from neck and roughing it with some 100 grit paper. Other than what the other guys said to try, I am out of ideas. mds...
Is your lower radiator hose new?
Original had a spring to keep hose from collapsing.
If spring has "rusted away" or is missing lower hose might be sucked closed when coolant gets hot.
Is your lower radiator hose new?
Original had a spring to keep hose from collapsing.
If spring has "rusted away" or is missing lower hose might be sucked closed when coolant gets hot.
Good Luck
yes they are both new, but there is no spring in the lower hose, just the upper. I guess I should try and find one with a spring. -Neal
is the hose clamp new? could be the worm gear or gear-slots in the hose clamp strap are slightly stripped or deformed to allow it to skip a slot when stressed. really stretching the imagination, though.
is the hose clamp new? could be the worm gear or gear-slots in the hose clamp strap are slightly stripped or deformed to allow it to skip a slot when stressed. really stretching the imagination, though.
Brand new, in fact, I changed it to another new one the first time the hose slid off.
What brand of hose are you using? If a good name brand then tighten clamp as tight as you can with one hand using a nut driver. I do not know what amount of torque to tighten to without collapsing inlet. Usually clamp will fail or cut into hose and parts of hose will come out the little D shaped holes in clamp before inlet collapses but I do not want you to ruin your new rad. Last ideas. mds...
What brand of hose are you using? If a good name brand then tighten clamp as tight as you can with one hand using a nut driver. I do not know what amount of torque to tighten to without collapsing inlet. Usually clamp will fail or cut into hose and parts of hose will come out the little D shaped holes in clamp before inlet collapses but I do not want you to ruin your new rad. Last ideas. mds...
its a gates hose... part number GAT25808. I know it's hard to believe, but I did see the hose popping through the clamp and you described. -Neal
I've never seen this old race trick fail: where you have room; double-clamp, side-by-side w/ two clamps. Don't squeeze radiator too tight; it'll warp/crush. You should also verify there's no blown head gasket.
*everything on internet's suspect; including the very words I just wrote.
Just ordered a new water pump...can't hurt my situation I guess. What's killing me here is that this all didn't start until I put my new Pypes exhaust system on yesterday. When I would run the car with open headers, it would get to temperature and the hose would stay on. This is driving me nuts. On a more positive note, my new water pump only cost me $12 plus shipping. It's a Cardone reman pump from Rock Auto. Like I said, can't hurt. -Neal
For example, in my 68, I have only pure ethylene glycol in the cooling system. There's been no water in this car since about 1972. With pure ethylene glycol, the cooling system never pressurizes since the boiling point of ethylene glycol is about 450 degrees F. I installed a new ZZ4(hot cam) engine and for my my first few test drives, I DIDN'T HAVE BAND CLAMPS on the radiator hoses. The hoses were just hand pressed into position. I've since installed band clamps.
I have pure ethylene glycol coolant in my DD Ford Thunderbird also. No heating problem. I have a 2008 Corvette and I use the standard coolant mixture there just to avoid any warranty problems.
cracked head or head gasket letting compression in the water system blowing off the hose .i work in a shop that rebuilds anything that runs ,and believe me comp will blow off hoses or anything else when the pressure gets up high enough.first thing u need to do is pull out ur plugs and see if any r wet ....while u got them out run a compression check .look at it this way under normal conditions u shouldnt b able to take that hose off unless u took the clamp off .good luck .....
cracked head or head gasket letting compression in the water system blowing off the hose .i work in a shop that rebuilds anything that runs ,and believe me comp will blow off hoses or anything else when the pressure gets up high enough.first thing u need to do is pull out ur plugs and see if any r wet ....while u got them out run a compression check .look at it this way under normal conditions u shouldnt b able to take that hose off unless u took the clamp off .good luck .....
Are you getting pressure into your overflow bucket? Check the flow in the radiator with the cap off; but in your case wear a face shield and helmet.
I'm going to pull the cap off today after work and let it get up to temp. This will confirm for me that the Radiator isn't blocked as well. I think I'll run it without the thermostat in place also. What do you think? -Neal