When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I put in a new drive shaft and pinion yoke, I lost some oil out of my diff when I took off the yoke and topped the diff off with regular ole 80W90 now when I let off the gas I get a HORRIBLE sound and vibration from the rear end. What can I do to fix this problem and what have I done to kill me rear diff? Please help my heart is in my stomach right now.
This probably won't fix the problem but put some gear oil in along with GM Positraction Additive. Here's a link: http://www.zip-corvette.com/ProductDetails/ProductDetails.aspx?pid={2ca5ba6a-fcb8-4eea-bd0c-af2eb6fbaf77}&gid={fec52836-d7e0-424a-881c-316a6ec43a5b}&GroupName=Gear+Lubricant+% 26+Additive&pname=GM+Positraction+Additi ve&Referer=&Alias=&ptct=SGR-SR&CTitle=&
If the vibes are only there on decel then then the issue is with the pinion mesh. You took the yoke off at the diff side? You normally can't do that without screwing up the pinion backlash....time for a rebuild I am afraid....
Yeah I took the yoke off just by loosening up that one nut that holds it on and replaced it, I did notice a good bit of play in the pinion but didn't think it would make such an amazingly horrible sound. I also found if I keep just the ever so slightest bit of power on the drive train then I don't get that horrible vibration/sound.
To do it properly, you have to take the differential it's self out of the housing, put in a new crush sleeve, and tighten the nut until you get the specified amount of drag on the pinion. It's basically the exact same procedure you'd use if you were setting up a new ring and pinion. You can do it yourself, it's not particularly difficult, but it's often a very a tedious job. Tighten a tad, check, tighten, check, tighten, check, and when you get the pinion set, make sure you double check the ring gear backlash and wear pattern. Theoretically it shouldn't have changed, but it very well may have.
Last edited by Bugman Jeff; Mar 16, 2010 at 10:35 PM.
The nuts about as tight as its getting, I laid the impact gun on it for a good 5 or 6 seconds
That is the problem. You crushed your crush sleeve that sets the preload too much. You will have te resetup the ring and pinion. It has to come apart, check everything, new crush sleeve Ect.. The crush sleeve acts like a lock washer and the more you tighten it the more the pinion moves into the housing. You install a new one and tighten it gradually checking the gear mesh until it is right and your done. The sleave has crushed at this point and the nut won't back off on its own. Once you loosen that nut the crush sleeve is done and will need replaced. You very well could have trashed your ring and pinion already.
That is the problem. You crushed your crush sleeve that sets the preload too much. You will have te resetup the ring and pinion. It has to come apart, check everything, new crush sleeve Ect.. The crush sleeve acts like a lock washer and the more you tighten it the more the pinion moves into the housing. You install a new one and tighten it gradually checking the gear mesh until it is right and your done. The sleave has crushed at this point and the nut won't back off on its own. Once you loosen that nut the crush sleeve is done and will need replaced. You very well could have trashed your ring and pinion already.
Dead on.
You are now just tightening the bearing up against the race...if you run it like that, you will burn up a bearing, and destroy your whole diff. Time for a rebuild...there is no way to avoid it.
The diffs are pretty tough, but your done. If you have been driving it like that, remove the diff and fix it right or you will be buying a new R&P and paying someone like me to build a diff for you. I don't even know what you have is worth fixing now, but you can try. You will need a new crush sleeve and you will have to remove the diff from the car. Once you have the new crush sleeve in place, you can start tightening the nut with your impact until you feel a very small amount of play. Once you have done this then you just want to bump the impact and check the torque with a ROLLING TORQUE wrench. You need to tighten the nut until you have 15in/lbs of rolling torque. Once you get this, stake the nut and you are done, reinstall the diff. Don't forget install the oil seal, and pack the back of the seal with grease.
Justin
Not necessarily. These guys are doomsdayers. Just tightening the pinion nut would not change the position of the pinion itself. It just tightens the bearing reload. Over tightening would wear the bearings and make noises under all conditions. The symptoms that you have would indicate a pinion that is loose. Go back and recheck what you have done. Check the pinion for movement in and out. Check the NEW yoke for compatibility.
Not necessarily. These guys are doomsdayers. Just tightening the pinion nut would not change the position of the pinion itself. It just tightens the bearing reload. Over tightening would wear the bearings and make noises under all conditions. The symptoms that you have would indicate a pinion that is loose. Go back and recheck what you have done. Check the pinion for movement in and out. Check the NEW yoke for compatibility.
This is not correct. Check this exploded view. The crush sleeve is between the bearing and the flange. It is crushed too far if you cranked it down with an impact. It has to be replaced. You might get your preload set right but the nut holding the pinion flange on will back off when driving.
So should I go with this... http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-p...ete-400-a.html
Or should I try to rebuild it? From the sounds of it, it seems rebuilding it may or may not fix my problem and I have never rebuild a diff. What do you guys think?
Forget about rebuilding it yourself. You need micrometers, dial indicators etc and a lot of experience to do it right. Buying the unit posted will be cheaper than having yours rebuilt professionally.
Forget about rebuilding it yourself. You need micrometers, dial indicators etc and a lot of experience to do it right. Buying the unit posted will be cheaper than having yours rebuilt professionally.
If the unit has minimal end yoke play, comes complete and is a drop in unit. Might check these guys:
Don't know the quality of there build or if sideyokes and rear cover are included. One picture shows side yokes, one doesn't but a 3 year warrantee sounds good. Might be a good time to upgrade to a different gear ratio. If you have a 3.08 a 3.55 really makes a difference in performance but it will RPM a little more cruising.