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Rear diff... Help!!!!

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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 12:35 PM
  #21  
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buying the unit posted does not guarantee that it is complete not needing rebuild and that it may or may not have been set up correctly. only if the pinion nut has not been touched would I even think about risking just bolting the rear end in. Then at best it is a 50-50 risk that you are back to square one.
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by joewill
buying the unit posted does not guarantee that it is complete not needing rebuild and that it may or may not have been set up correctly. only if the pinion nut has not been touched would I even think about risking just bolting the rear end in. Then at best it is a 50-50 risk that you are back to square one.
Screen name is Redvetteracer. Has the rear end been in his red vette racing? Hard to say but these units are all over 30 years old so even an unmolested unit could really need a rebuild. Looking behind the rear cover and finding it "clean" does not necessarily meen it doesn't need a rebuild.
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 03:21 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by 63mako
This is not correct. Check this exploded view. The crush sleeve is between the bearing and the flange. It is crushed too far if you cranked it down with an impact. It has to be replaced. You might get your preload set right but the nut holding the pinion flange on will back off when driving.

http://www.duntovmotors.com/63-79Dif...plodedView.htm
I know what the F*&^%g thing looks like in there. I have rebuilt lots of them. And the shim that sets the pinion is directly under the pinion gear. Once the play is removed, further tightening of the nut does not significantly change the pinion setting. Certainly not enough to make it growl on coast and only on coast. I am not arguing that he shouldn't have done what he did, but his symptom would indicate that he has not tighten it enough. If he has destroyed the bearing it would be making noises all of the time in both acceleration and coast.
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by wombvette
I know what the F*&^%g thing looks like in there. I have rebuilt lots of them. And the shim that sets the pinion is directly under the pinion gear. Once the play is removed, further tightening of the nut does not significantly change the pinion setting. Certainly not enough to make it growl on coast and only on coast. I am not arguing that he shouldn't have done what he did, but his symptom would indicate that he has not tighten it enough. If he has destroyed the bearing it would be making noises all of the time in both acceleration and coast.
No need to get angry. Question for you is what did the crush sleeve do when he layed on it with the impact? It collapsed sucking the pinion toward the front of the differential. The crush sleeve needs to be replaced and probably at least the pinion bearing and seal. If it comes apart this far the backlash needs to be resetup and it is quite possible there is other damage as well and everything should be inspected. This is how I look at it. You may have a different opinion. You are entitled to your opinion but, I am also entitled to mine and put the illistration up so the OP could see the consequences of tightening the nut way too tight.
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 08:05 PM
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James, sent you a PM...

Good luck... GUSTO
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 08:06 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by 63mako
No need to get angry. Question for you is what did the crush sleeve do when he layed on it with the impact? It collapsed sucking the pinion toward the front of the differential. The crush sleeve needs to be replaced and probably at least the pinion bearing and seal. If it comes apart this far the backlash needs to be resetup and it is quite possible there is other damage as well and everything should be inspected. This is how I look at it. You may have a different opinion. You are entitled to your opinion but, I am also entitled to mine and put the illistration up so the OP could see the consequences of tightening the nut way too tight.
I am not angry, but you did quote me and say I was wrong, and told me to look at the diagram. I have a bunch of experience with these things and I know what they look like. I agree that it should be checked and adjusted as soon as possible, but at the same time, just hitting it with an air wrench for a few seconds is not going to crush the sleeve that much. It may tighten up too much on the bearing, and it may make the bearing unserviceable, but the described noise is not a symptom of a tight bearing or a forward pinion. A loose pinion will pull on the drive side with absolutely no noise assuming that the shim is correct in the first place, but will howl like a stuck hog on the coast side. That is the symptom that was described.
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 08:23 PM
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Well you sound like you know what you are talking about wombvette, I am going to try to tighten it more by hand and see if that fixes or at least lessens the problem. If not then plan B...
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by themetalman03886
Well you sound like you know what you are talking about wombvette, I am going to try to tighten it more by hand and see if that fixes or at least lessens the problem. If not then plan B...
Set the preload as Justin recommended with an inch lb torque wrench. If the pinion is already adjusted way too tight the crush sleeve is crushed too much. Let us know how it goes. I am thinking plan B...........
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 10:42 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by 63mako
If the unit has minimal end yoke play, comes complete and is a drop in unit. Might check these guys:

http://corvettepartsonline.net/

Don't know the quality of there build or if sideyokes and rear cover are included. One picture shows side yokes, one doesn't but a 3 year warrantee sounds good. Might be a good time to upgrade to a different gear ratio. If you have a 3.08 a 3.55 really makes a difference in performance but it will RPM a little more cruising.
Stay away.
Many, many horror stories.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-a...nline-com.html

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...ts-online.html

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...am-artist.html

Last edited by noonie; Mar 17, 2010 at 11:00 PM.
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 11:29 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by themetalman03886
Well you sound like you know what you are talking about wombvette, I am going to try to tighten it more by hand and see if that fixes or at least lessens the problem. If not then plan B...
Don't just arbitrarily tighten it. Check it for end play first. Also, I would ask what the reason for changing the yoke was?
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Old Mar 18, 2010 | 03:15 AM
  #31  
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Default Cheap rebuild of diff, done right

My machine shop rebuilt my diff which had spun a side bearing. He made a bushing and replaced all bearings and seals. I put it back in and it is perfect with no leaks. He will completely rebuild a rear for no more than $300 if it doesnt require any special repair (like mine did). If you are interested PM me for info.
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Old Mar 18, 2010 | 01:14 PM
  #32  
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When you pull the driveshaft you will be able to tell if you under tightened the pinion nut.
The yoke will move slightly in and out as you turn it. You will be able to tell its loose.
I resealed my diff a while back and when I first drove the car I had the same problem you do. Under decel it would howl.
This is despite the fact that I did the work out of the car, it wasnt my first time at this, and I did check turning torque.
Apparently something didnt seat just right when I put it back together and it had play in the pinion. I retightened it and it has been fine since.
Good luck with yours.
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Old Mar 18, 2010 | 05:28 PM
  #33  
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I replaced it because the the bolts that hold the drive shaft to the yoke broke and it damaged the yoke and drive shaft in the process. I am going to take a look at it this weekend and see if there is a quick fix or easy fix.
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Old Mar 18, 2010 | 05:36 PM
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Old Mar 19, 2010 | 07:22 AM
  #35  
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FWIW, I replaced the pinion seal in my diff about 4 years ago. I didn't replace the yoke but just tightened the nut with an impact. The turning torque seemed the same as before I took it apart. It's been fine ever since. I probably have 2500-3000 miles on it since.
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Old Mar 19, 2010 | 07:43 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by wombvette
These guys are doomsdayers.

Holy moley, something we can finally agree on.
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Old Mar 20, 2010 | 08:24 PM
  #37  
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http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-p...ferential.html
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To Rear diff... Help!!!!

Old Mar 20, 2010 | 09:37 PM
  #38  
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Well i pulled my vette into the shop and went over my work, I took the yoke back off turned it 180 and put it back on, this time using the right tools, everything seems to be working great, no leaks, no sounds, just a smooth ride
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Old Mar 21, 2010 | 12:02 AM
  #39  
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Don't drive that car another foot,,,you could cost your self some big bucks,,your pinion gear is striking your ring gear housing when the torque is dropped of when you let off the gas.

ck your PM that I sent you,,,in a sense I did the same thing you did but in a different manner. And I had the same results as you,,but don't drive that car.
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Old Mar 21, 2010 | 12:12 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by themetalman03886
Well i pulled my vette into the shop and went over my work, I took the yoke back off turned it 180 and put it back on, this time using the right tools, everything seems to be working great, no leaks, no sounds, just a smooth ride
I see you have it sounding ok,,,,but your pinion gear may be too deep or not deep enuf in to your ring gear,,,,you may have problems later,,unless you are one lucky son of a gun and accidentally got it right.
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