Rear crossmember.
Thread Starter
Acct suspended by request 19 July 2010
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Rear crossmember.
Looking to remove the cover on my rear end, (1971). Unable to remove the 4 bolts, (already removed the others) at the top of the cover that bolt to the rear crossmember. Already dropped a socket once down that crossmember, an had to go fishing for it! How do you remove the rear crossmember so I can access the 4 bolts? I unbolted the two bolts at each end of the crossmember, an tried a prybar as previous posts suggusted. The entire unit did not budge at all!!! Those bushings are $64.00 each, so I did not want to dig them out for nothing.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 3,235
Likes: 658
From: Thunder Bay
From one who has been there several times:
As with most things on these cars, you're about to enter the world of "while its apart, I might as well...".
Get a bigger pry bar, and maybe a BFH (hammer). If the bolts are out, the rear crossmember should come off. If it doesn't its because of the rust. Hose it down with some good penetrating oil, leave it sit for a day or two, and work on it with the aforementioned precision instruments. Good luck.
As with most things on these cars, you're about to enter the world of "while its apart, I might as well...".
Get a bigger pry bar, and maybe a BFH (hammer). If the bolts are out, the rear crossmember should come off. If it doesn't its because of the rust. Hose it down with some good penetrating oil, leave it sit for a day or two, and work on it with the aforementioned precision instruments. Good luck.
Last edited by drwet; Mar 21, 2010 at 08:29 PM. Reason: Kant spel
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,335
Likes: 4,450
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi 71M,
drw is right about the LARGE/LONG pry bar.
BUT, support it and the rear before you pry... because when it lets lose it gets very heavy in a hurry! Some people put 2 longer bolts at the ends to stop it once it comes loose.
BIG FUN!
Regards,
Alan
drw is right about the LARGE/LONG pry bar.
BUT, support it and the rear before you pry... because when it lets lose it gets very heavy in a hurry! Some people put 2 longer bolts at the ends to stop it once it comes loose.
BIG FUN!
Regards,
Alan
Racer
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 294
Likes: 1
From: Racine Wisconsin
I didn't have a pry bar that was long enough to supply sufficient mechanical advantage. I used a pulley puller. I removed the bolts in the crossmember and installed bolts that were about 2" longer. My pulley puller has a conical point; so, I drilled a corresponding hole in the longer bolt to keep the puller centered. About 1" of travel was adequate to free the crossmember.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,696
Likes: 65
From: Kissimmee fl
Finalist 2021 C3 of the Year - Modified
2017 C3 of Year Finalist
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St. Jude Donor '07
When I pulled my crossmember to swap rear ends, I used a Ball joint separating fork to wedge between the frame and crossmember. Remove the rear wheels if you have not already and work on each end thru the wheel well. As mentioned above, leave the bolts in the bushings loose till both ends are free. Like they said things will get heavy in a hurry.
Supporting Vendor
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 576
Likes: 3
From: Muskegon MI
This definitely is one of those things you don't want to have to do again any time soon. Once you do get it down make sure you take a good look at those bushings and the cover itself. If the bushings are cracking up replace them. If you see any cracking in the ears of the cover get that replaced too. I know it's not fun spending the money, but its less fun to have to take the crossmember down AGAIN because the ear broke off the cover spring mount. If you do need one let me know.
Andrew
800-442-0335
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 8,117
Likes: 104
From: charlotte north carolina
when you reattach the rear spring DO NOT use the bolts to snug the spring up to the differential. that's what breaks the ears off the differential cover. snug the bolts, then put the wheels on the ground and let the weight of the car flex the springs upward. snug the bolts a little more, then rock the car to flex the sping, then torque to specs.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 805
Likes: 5
From: Naperville Illinois
I used a large 2-jaw puller when I did mine:
with a homemade cradle for the diff bolted to my small trolley jack. You just back out the bolts about an inch or so, then spray inside the "cups" with some PB Blaster or Kroil. The center on the puller bears on the bolt heads. Be ready though, mine let go all at once with a he** of a BANG. I suggest replacing the bolts, and when you put it back together, use anti-seize. If you decide to replace the cushions, an air chisel will come in real handy. BTW, I got my pucks from R-D Racing, they were I think $44 each. I also installed the Muskegon HD cover, well worth the investment
Even with the HD cover, follow the above advice about putting the weight of the car on the spring etc. before you torque them down (70ft lbs IIRC)
Good luck!
with a homemade cradle for the diff bolted to my small trolley jack. You just back out the bolts about an inch or so, then spray inside the "cups" with some PB Blaster or Kroil. The center on the puller bears on the bolt heads. Be ready though, mine let go all at once with a he** of a BANG. I suggest replacing the bolts, and when you put it back together, use anti-seize. If you decide to replace the cushions, an air chisel will come in real handy. BTW, I got my pucks from R-D Racing, they were I think $44 each. I also installed the Muskegon HD cover, well worth the investment
Even with the HD cover, follow the above advice about putting the weight of the car on the spring etc. before you torque them down (70ft lbs IIRC)Good luck!
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