When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The cable that connects to the frame and then back over to the motor mount (and should make contact with the starter shield)....Can this be connected direct to the starter? And I only ask because what if you dont have that shield in place? How will this cable make contact with the starter to ground it?
the ground cable conects to and grounds the block and the starter is bolted to to block, and there is your starter ground, make sure there is no paint between the starter and block where it bolts up
i didn't want to assume that but thanks. Is there some kind of wrap or insulator i can use for both the ground cable and the starter harness that won't cause any arching? Pretty close to the headers....
You won't get any arcing with a 12 volt DC system. As long as you have 1/16", there should be no problem with arcing. A larger gap would be better, of course...but not a requirement.
When I had headers on my black79, I moved the starter end of the cable forward to the bolt at the front of the fuel pump boss. Other end remained at the frame by the motor mount.
On the main ground strap, it's best to have the connector lugs actually touching the components you want to connect...rather than forcing current through the bolt/threads and another component. It will work that way, but you run the risk of thread corrosion becoming a problem. If it bolts directly to the frame/block, the backside of the connector is mated with the component's surface, as well.
These straps appear to be too thin to conduct the starter motor current;i.e. starter motor to block to frame ground path.
On my 68, I grounded the block directly to the frame. I think the 68 originally had a block to motor mount ground path to the frame. Make sure you have a low impedance; good ground path to the frame. The peak starter current can be as much as 600 amps. (I think after the peak, the current is about 300 amps or so.) A poor ground might be a100 milliohms which is OK for a lamp circuit, but with 600 amps through the starter, you'll get a big 6 volt drop across the 100 milliamp ground, not good.
Ok while we are on the subject, what gauge wire is the stock ground cable? (75). Might sound crazy but I found some short cables at " wal mart " the other night, they were 4 gauge and 6 gauge I believe. Would these be a decent replacment? If so they are a heck of alot cheaper than an aftermarket at the usual vette suppliers. (over $30!!)
If this is similiar to a battery cable then short ones for a lawn mower would seem to be the same thing? They don't seem too complicated of an item. Or are they?
That looks about like the one that was on m car. I too replaced mine a couple of months ago. I have no problems with it being too close to the headers.
The oem cable is aluminum copper clad.
4ga copper is within 5 amps of 2ga aluminum.
It's always better to go bigger. There is serious voltage drop in 12vdc
The braided ground cable can always be doubled up too.
On my Ford van, the factory used 2 fuse links to meet the ampacity on the single alternator charge wire.
If you replace those cables, you should purchase 2 awg welding cable. It is copper wire, fine stranded so that it is flexible, has good insulation and is easy to solder when installing connectors.