When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I am wanting to build a motor for my 75 coupe and wanted to know what the story is with finding a good block to start with. I know that Dart and other companies make top quality blocks but what about engines that came out in other cars. I am looking to find a 350 that would be a good block to build upon. Did certain year vehicles have better engine blocks than others? I am going to have a local engine builder do all my work so that I know it is right. I have heard that the new gm blocks are not that good and are not as strong as the older models. Anyone have any experiences/suggestions? Thanks
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
If your local engine builder is doing the work he knows which blocks are the best, as stated above a high nickel block with 010 in the casting are the best
If your local engine builder is doing the work he knows which blocks are the best, as stated above a high nickel block with 010 in the casting are the best
These 010 high nickel blocks are "OLD" engines that came in cars from the factory. You also want to make sure that it's a 4 bolt main engine.
Here's a link that will help you on finding the best old block engines: http://chevymania.com/. Do the parts ID, the blocks and then small blocks. The older high performance engines are the ones with the high nickle content and you can identify those by the engine part number.
I would look into a Marine version block. The current vortec GM marine blocks run consistantly 5350 to 5500 rpm all day long, easily making 330 to 350 hp from the 5.7lt 377's are upwards of over 400 hp at same rpm. I don't know of nickle content but I do know alot of sprint car engine builders use these blocks. I run mine at 6,500 in our sand hill jeep. Al
Yeah, I would want a written guarantee that the block can be cleaned up with a .030 over bore, isn't cracked or screwed up during some roller cam conversion attempt by bubba's joint or you get to exchange it or refund. Be careful since it could be an anchor.
IMHO: unless you are going for lots of torque or power you really don't need the 4 bolt block. If less than 400hp it isn't necessary, some will even say less than 500hp or if RPM range is normal range idle - 5500RPM. If the cost is the same then sure, but if you have to pay a premium then reconsider.
For sane power levels, even the late model roller 350 blocks can live at 420-450HP levels. If your building a street motor a late model Vortec truck motor would be a good start. The early high nickle blocks are pretty hard to find in today's market, most were destroyed by circle track racers.
Yeah, I would want a written guarantee that the block can be cleaned up with a .030 over bore, isn't cracked or screwed up during some roller cam conversion attempt by bubba's joint or you get to exchange it or refund. Be careful since it could be an anchor.
IMHO: unless you are going for lots of torque or power you really don't need the 4 bolt block. If less than 400hp it isn't necessary, some will even say less than 500hp or if RPM range is normal range idle - 5500RPM. If the cost is the same then sure, but if you have to pay a premium then reconsider.
2 months ago it took 4 blocks to get one that would pass a sonic test and by time he paid me to strip all the short blocks to sonic test and machine his block for splayed caps and what he paid for them he could of bought an new SHP block all machined.
Up to 383 CID and about 450 HP, a used roller-cam block is a great foundation if properly prepared. Beyond that, an aftermarket block is a smart investment - especially given their relatively low cost and outstanding features. It's certainly hard to find a good 'old skool' 60's/70's GEN I block (I refuse to even try any more) but the later model blocks are pretty easy - and buying as a pull-out engine means you can likely reuse the roller cam components, possibly including the lifters (for a mild build). LT1 nailed it.
The engine is as good as the foundation - the key is picking the right foundation for what you intend to build. Building a garden shed on a 16 inch slab is a waste of money...but building a skyscraper on a couple of 4x6's is going to end in tears
From: San Diego - Deep Within The State of CONFUSION!
Originally Posted by Corey_68
anything listed as "high nickel" block
Originally Posted by MotorHead
If your local engine builder is doing the work he knows which blocks are the best, as stated above a high nickel block with 010 in the casting are the best
For sane power levels, even the late model roller 350 blocks can live at 420-450HP levels. If your building a street motor a late model Vortec truck motor would be a good start. The early high nickle blocks are pretty hard to find in today's market, most were destroyed by circle track racers.
I agree...
Don't know what parts you may already have, but a running vortec takeout can be had for cheap sometimes with the trans. Swap a cam/intake for more power. Good place to start in my opinion makes a 4spd auto swap a good deal too. Unless you are doing a super/turbo project, but then why not go for a aftermarket block.
What about "OLD" engines that came factory in cars? Is a vortec motor better than another engine, etc.? Thanks for the info.
You should strongly consider a Vortec engine from a 1996 and up truck, van, or full size car with a roller cam/lifters. Then you would not have to worry about flat tappet problems such as cam failure, abnormal lifter wear, etc. because of the newer oil formulations with lower levels of ZDDP.
Some of those engines may or may not not have the mechanical fuel pump boss completely drilled due to being installed in FI vehicles so make sure it has provisions for your stock pump or that it can be machined to do so.
Terry
Tell your builder what you want for performance, and ask if he has a block to meet those criteria. If you trust him, why not get it all right there in one shot?