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As far as I know I think 3 and 9 o'clock movement is bearings as You indicate up and down is a Yoke problem 6 and 12 o'clock movement. Hope this helps.
That's a pretty good run through of the process for rebuilding the rear wheel bearings. A couple of things are glossed over. There are special service tools available for getting things apart, but they only work if they come apart easily. I've done this and it can be extremely challenging to get them apart. One of mine required a 50 ton press. OK, maybe I could have done it with a smaller press, but its what I had. Also, there is little mention of the process of setting up the bearings for play. There is a tool that allows you to trial assemble the bearings to measure the play. You need to get one of these, otherwise you have to press the entire assembly together, measure the play, and press it all apart again to change the shim. Doable, but very time consuming.
If you're not a pretty accomplished mechanic, just remove the entire trailing arm and ship it off to someone who does these all the time.
i have more of a 6 and 12 problem .3 and 9 not that bad .what should i look for on the yoke ?the pictures tell me a lot .sending it off for repair might be a wise thing to do .i need to look into this yoke .thanks for all replys .
Also, there is little mention of the process of setting up the bearings for play. There is a tool that allows you to trial assemble the bearings to measure the play. You need to get one of these, otherwise you have to press the entire assembly together, measure the play, and press it all apart again to change the shim.
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I just use an old spindle that I ground down a bit.
One other thing to consider while its apart. Take the bearings and the spindle in to a good machine shop and have them turn the spindle down until the bearings are a .002" interference fit. (Spindle diameter .002" larger than the inside diameter of the bearing.) Makes them easier to diasassemble and reassemble.
Also, there is little mention of the process of setting up the bearings for play. There is a tool that allows you to trial assemble the bearings to measure the play. You need to get one of these, otherwise you have to press the entire assembly together, measure the play, and press it all apart again to change the shim. Doable, but very time consuming.
It was mentioned briefly; I ground out the old bearing to where it was a slip fit and did my setup that way. Once I got it where I wanted it, I switched to the new bearing and found the play unchanged at just over 1 thou.
Ingenious, but one of the reasons for setting up the clearance with shims is bearings are not all identical. You need to do the trial set up with the bearings you are using.
i have more of a 6 and 12 problem .3 and 9 not that bad .what should i look for on the yoke ?the pictures tell me a lot .sending it off for repair might be a wise thing to do .i need to look into this yoke .thanks for all replys .
The 6 and 12 problem means you have excessive endplay in your output yokes at the differential, or the strut rod bushings are shot. Watch to see where the play is while someone else works the wheel back and forth. Strut rod bushings are pretty easy. The yokes are a little more work. Also be advised the significance of the end play in the yokes is the subject of some controversy. There are those who believe the end play is no big deal, and others who think it is. Makes for pretty good reading.
Ingenious, but one of the reasons for setting up the clearance with shims is bearings are not all identical. You need to do the trial set up with the bearings you are using.
Yeah, I realize I lucked out on that one and the play stayed the same. But if you get 3 new inner bearings and grind one out for setup it should be ok as long as they are high quality bearings (i.e. manufactured to tight tolerances).
Now if you're replacing the spindle anyway I agree that turning the old spindle down to make it slip fit and doing your setup that way is the best solution.
the strut bushing is okay .when moving the wheel at 12 and 6 i can see movement where the yoke is bolted to the joint .the yoke goes up and down.
You're talking about the yoke at the differential? If so, you have a problem with the bearings in the differential and you're looking at a complete differential rebuild. If you are seeing the movement at the wheel end (which is called the spindle - the yoke is at the differential end) then you have a wheel bearing problem.
One other thing to consider while its apart. Take the bearings and the spindle in to a good machine shop and have them turn the spindle down until the bearings are a .002" interference fit. (Spindle diameter .002" larger than the inside diameter of the bearing.) Makes them easier to diasassemble and reassemble.
This method has sparked controversy before. Not saying it's wrong.
And don't forget that a "good" machine shop is hard to find if you don't do this every day.
Terry, the cheapest "easy" method is to drive the thing to a Vette specialty shop and have him change the bearings with the T/A right on the car.
It outta be about 2 hours labor plus the bearings,grease, and new french locks.
You're talking about the yoke at the differential? If so, you have a problem with the bearings in the differential and you're looking at a complete differential rebuild. If you are seeing the movement at the wheel end (which is called the spindle - the yoke is at the differential end) then you have a wheel bearing problem.
when you move the wheel up and down at 12and 6 .you can see the movement on the inside where the spindle bolts to the half shaft.