Frame Rust
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
From: Stonybrook, NY USA
Frame Rust
I have some frame rust on the passenger side right in front of the rear wheel.
This is the weak spot fopr rust on c3 vettes. Has anybody had this type of rust repaired. What did you do ?? Is it possible to permanenly fix this rust problem by welding some plate steel and coating the frame.
This is the weak spot fopr rust on c3 vettes. Has anybody had this type of rust repaired. What did you do ?? Is it possible to permanenly fix this rust problem by welding some plate steel and coating the frame.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 9,662
Likes: 7
From: Semper ubi, sub ubi
Cruise-In VI Veteran
Cruise-In VII Veteran
Re: Frame Rust (DarkBlue82)
Oh, northern cars and rust! :mad The correct way to fix this is to remove the body from the frame and cut the section out and have it welded back in. The best thing to do is to replace the whole frame, but that is usually too expensive for most people.
Some people have patched this sort of thing with the car still on the frame, it isn't any fun, and it is dangerous to weld around the fiberglass.
Good luck.
Some people have patched this sort of thing with the car still on the frame, it isn't any fun, and it is dangerous to weld around the fiberglass.
Good luck.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
From: Stonybrook, NY USA
Re: Frame Rust (Smokehouse69)
Wow, didn't think it would require removing car from the frame....
Seems there is still a lot of good steel around the rust spot which is about the size of a 1/2 Dollar. Don't think this is a structural problem... yet... but want to fix it before it gets worse... :smash:
Seems there is still a lot of good steel around the rust spot which is about the size of a 1/2 Dollar. Don't think this is a structural problem... yet... but want to fix it before it gets worse... :smash:
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 230
From: Orange Park Florida
Re: Frame Rust (DarkBlue82)
Allmost guaranteed that just ONE little spot isn't the only place the frame is gone, it's just where you happened to spot it....bet the frame area all around it is toast...thin as paper....poke a screwdriver around a bit....
better yet, a hammer....
Long Island is famous for destroying cars.....it don't take long, less than 10 years mostly...
better yet, a hammer....
Long Island is famous for destroying cars.....it don't take long, less than 10 years mostly...
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
From: Stonybrook, NY USA
Re: Frame Rust (mrvette)
Yeah, the salt air, especially if you live within a mile or two of the shore. Also, the salt when it snows stays on the street a while. Already poked around and most everything else is good. Any recommendations on good rustproofing for the frame after it is fixed ??
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 230
From: Orange Park Florida
Re: Frame Rust (DarkBlue82)
Lots of guy powdercoat frames, but that' after stripping them down to nothing but welded steel, fixing damages etc....
and of course sandblasting...thing is,....I dunno what is done about inside the frame sections much less in between the welded overlap sections...water gets in there, no way to clean it....
acid dipping??? either way, it's real time consuming and EXPENSIVE....
GENE
and of course sandblasting...thing is,....I dunno what is done about inside the frame sections much less in between the welded overlap sections...water gets in there, no way to clean it....
acid dipping??? either way, it's real time consuming and EXPENSIVE....
GENE
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
From: Wellington FL
Re: Frame Rust (DarkBlue82)
There are a couple of frame rot threads going. Do a search for "frame".
My frame has rotted pretty severely in the area you described. I bought the 48" repair sections from Zip Products. They are being installed this weekend by a local collision shop. I plan to post some before and after shots.
If your frame really only has a small section, and you can't easily push a screwdriver through the surrounding areas, you might be able to get a local frame shop to remove the bad and weld in a new section that they fabricate on their own. If the problem is bigger, you can get the 23" section (which has all the factory tie down openings for appearance), and have it replaced. This might even be done without a full body removal.
As for rust prevention, I haven't selected a product yet, but lots of guys on the Forum seem to like POR-15. I'm thinking about Eastwood's Corroless to spray the inside, and Quanta's System 5 frame black for the outside.
Stop it now before it spreads!
Good Luck!
[Modified by Red70, 8:29 PM 3/13/2002]
[Modified by Red70, 8:30 PM 3/13/2002]
My frame has rotted pretty severely in the area you described. I bought the 48" repair sections from Zip Products. They are being installed this weekend by a local collision shop. I plan to post some before and after shots.
If your frame really only has a small section, and you can't easily push a screwdriver through the surrounding areas, you might be able to get a local frame shop to remove the bad and weld in a new section that they fabricate on their own. If the problem is bigger, you can get the 23" section (which has all the factory tie down openings for appearance), and have it replaced. This might even be done without a full body removal.
As for rust prevention, I haven't selected a product yet, but lots of guys on the Forum seem to like POR-15. I'm thinking about Eastwood's Corroless to spray the inside, and Quanta's System 5 frame black for the outside.
Stop it now before it spreads!
Good Luck!
[Modified by Red70, 8:29 PM 3/13/2002]
[Modified by Red70, 8:30 PM 3/13/2002]
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 3,365
Likes: 5
From: Lake Villa IL
Cruise-In IV Veteran
Cruise-In V Veteran
St. Jude Contributor
Re: Frame Rust (DarkBlue82)
I nearly crapped my pants when I saw the underside of my Vette for the first time. I was new to the Vette thing, and I didn't know enough to check the frame. The frame in front of the driver's side rear wheel was nearly gone. I parked the car and went in search of a shop that would fix it. Most shops (i.e. the first ten) told me to get out. They wouldn't touch it. Then I found a guy with a welding shop who did this sort of thing. For $600, he fabbed a new side section, cut out the old, sectioned in the new. The car is now straight and strong.
Frankly, I lucked out. I'm glad the other guys told me to hit the road, because I don't think they would have done as good of a job. This guy is no stranger to custom fabricating/welding. He does a lot of jobs for some of the historic homes in the area, and he always has a classic car or two in his garage.
If you go this route, be cautious. Ask a lot of questions. And make sure the welder has worked on Vettes before (with success).
This is one way. The other, and the much more comprehensive (time and cost) is to remove the body. :eek:
Frankly, I lucked out. I'm glad the other guys told me to hit the road, because I don't think they would have done as good of a job. This guy is no stranger to custom fabricating/welding. He does a lot of jobs for some of the historic homes in the area, and he always has a classic car or two in his garage.
If you go this route, be cautious. Ask a lot of questions. And make sure the welder has worked on Vettes before (with success).
This is one way. The other, and the much more comprehensive (time and cost) is to remove the body. :eek:
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