Will this help with cooling?

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Apr 10, 2010 | 11:34 AM

#21

BTAL

Race Director

Joined: Dec 2007

Posts: 14,345

Likes: 4

From: Hartselle AL

St. Jude Donor '09

Quote:

Originally Posted by Garys 68

OK, my last post on this.....
For those who have no clue, the 68, 4 speed, manual trans radiator is about 1/3rd smaller than every other radiator in ANY vett, especially those giving you thier nuggets of wisdom in this thread with other year vettes...
Wonder why it was a 1 year only item...It didn't work!
And the fan shroud...look it up if you dont know what it looks like. One year only because.....duh....it didn't work either.
This info is only for those with a 68 small block, 4 speed.
My work here is done.

See #14, he has already replaced the inadequate '68 rad.

Apr 10, 2010 | 02:02 PM

#22

babbah

Melting Slicks

Joined: Apr 2005

Posts: 2,777

Likes: 105

Quote:

Originally Posted by southern_vette

check the timing

Perhaps not enough initial timing advance and make sure that your vacuum advance can of the distributor is working as well. Makes a huge difference in cooling! (Many threads on this on this forum as well.

Apr 10, 2010 | 02:12 PM

#23

jim2527

Race Director

Joined: Apr 2003

Posts: 19,352

Likes: 654

From: Tampa, Florida

Is the spoiler installed?

Apr 10, 2010 | 02:43 PM

#24

John Dingman

Racer

Joined: Oct 2008

Posts: 255

Likes: 2

From: Michigan

Quote:

Originally Posted by babbah

:iagree

Also sometime that hi flow water pump does more harm than good. You just force the coolant to go through the radiator faster not giving it enough time to cool.

Apr 11, 2010 | 09:23 PM

#25

Rally68

Thread Starter

Burning Brakes

Joined: Sep 2008

Posts: 805

Likes: 5

From: Naperville Illinois

I don't think the water pump is the culprit. The spoiler is installed. Next chance I get I am going to:
1) modify the fan shroud so it can't pull engine compartment air in from the side
2) re-install the clutch fan
3) check the timing

I'll let you know what I find out. At the rate the honey-do's are piling up, it may be a couple weeks before i can devote a day to the vette.

Sincere thanks to everybody who weighed in...

Chris

Apr 11, 2010 | 09:37 PM

#26

Bee Jay

Safety Car

Joined: Nov 2005

Posts: 3,961

Likes: 573

From: Lompoc, CA. Santa Barbara County

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rally68

Chris

Looks like your front plate is in place. I think on the bumper cars you can simply remove it, and enjoy increased air flow to your radiator.
Bee Jay

Apr 12, 2010 | 12:33 AM

#27

centralcalvette

Drifting

Joined: Dec 2009

Posts: 1,349

Likes: 34

From: Porterville Ca

Use your infra red gun to measure how well the raditor is cooling. I find most radiators will be 30 degrees f coooler on the out let side. Even though your rad may be new, your cooling system may have deposited rust inside your rad and plugged it in a short qamount of time. Too much or too little coolant flow through the rad won't keep the coolant in the rad long enough to cool it. Loose the flex fan now. It will flex and not pull air through when the engine rpms are higher. Do you have the correct water pump pulley? I've seen a large wp pulley slow down the pump & waterflow.

Apr 12, 2010 | 09:18 AM

#28

69427

Tech Contributor

Joined: Jun 2004

Posts: 20,905

Likes: 962

From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.

Several good suggestions in the thread so far

(although there's a couple others I disagree with). Nevertheless, what is the condition of your lower radiator hose? Is it collapsing at higher RPMs, restricting flow?