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Old Apr 9, 2010 | 09:31 PM
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Default Electric fans

Just put in an Aluminum radiator/ fan set up. The fit on it was pretty good...I think one of my mounts might be a little out of shape after 40 some odd years...but all in all...it looks nice.

So I am now starting to lay out the wiring for it and was wonder if any one had any tips, advice, or pics. Let me know! Thanks.
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Old Apr 9, 2010 | 10:44 PM
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Make sure you use relays
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Old Apr 10, 2010 | 08:56 AM
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Did the 81 come standard with an electric fan? Mine has one and it looks to be OEM install. The wiring harness is OEM looking in fact the wires lead into the OEM connector. The fan works fine but the Temp switch in the even bank head is non operational. If I connect the two connections the fan turns on. Oh the fan temp switch circuit works off of a switching on and off the ground. I do not have a overheating problem, but I would like to get the OEM items working correctly. thanks Al
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Old Apr 10, 2010 | 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by TPI BOY
Make sure you use relays
the harness came with relays, fuses, etc...its pretty nice. The drivers side of the car looks pretty 'populated' with other stuff, so I am thinking of running the wires to the pax side. Trying to decide where to grab the main 12v power from.
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Old Apr 10, 2010 | 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by terrible_buddhist
the harness came with relays, fuses, etc...its pretty nice. The drivers side of the car looks pretty 'populated' with other stuff, so I am thinking of running the wires to the pax side. Trying to decide where to grab the main 12v power from.
I have set up a few cars running the dual fans. I have always put the relays in the passenger side inner fender and taken the main power from the starter lug. On mine I now have an aux. power lug right close to the starter that I now use. The other cars are runnig fine with it on the starter lug though.
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Old Apr 10, 2010 | 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Gordonm
I have set up a few cars running the dual fans. I have always put the relays in the passenger side inner fender and taken the main power from the starter lug. On mine I now have an aux. power lug right close to the starter that I now use. The other cars are runnig fine with it on the starter lug though.
I have duel fans and take my voltage from the
altenator
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Old Apr 10, 2010 | 05:18 PM
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I just put a Flex-A-Lite fan in, they come with a great wiring setup. I ran my main voltage from the alternator and got switched power from the fuse box. Also used the same switched power to hook up my electric choke.
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Old Apr 10, 2010 | 05:44 PM
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Let's suppose you have a 3 year old battery, and you take that fan power off the battery cable directly, the alt sees a power drain of course, but the alt voltage goes through a fuse link to the battery, so the battery sees less voltage on initial and steady charge than the alt thinks it is....so what happens is IF you say drive the car in summer with a/c on, and go in city/burbs use from stop to stop, or maybe just to work and back for a week, driving say 4 miles each way....that battery never sees 14.8 volts, lucky to see 13.x and so it's never fully charged on the 4 mile trip...now a FORTY mile freeway drive maybe a different thing...

but under adverse conditions, that battery never received a full charge because the fans are NOT SUPPOSED TO BE run off the BAT cable/ stud directly...

look at a GM factory wiring diagram, such as a '87 vette manual, electrical supplement...power distribution network.....

note the fans do not run off the battery directly, they have their own fuse link off the alt stud....as do mine....

CASE CLOSED.....

ya do it the way the guys building the gear intended.....


Last edited by mrvette; Apr 10, 2010 at 05:46 PM.
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Old Apr 10, 2010 | 06:05 PM
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Mrvette, I like your idea, On my 81, I am sure the wiring is original. the fan get is b+ voltage originating at the starter stud, going through a fusable link, up into a connector harness, this same wire then goes to the fan, through one more 2 wire connector. The ground is switched on and off from the temp switch on the passenger side head. These ground wires also go through the same OEM connector and onto the fan. This is a single fan in front of the clutched fan. The wiring looks GM the fan looks GM I see no relays to control. Again the switched circuit is on the B- side. The power witch the fan recieves is both battery and alternator since the alternator feeds the B+ to the starter post. Any ideas if this was standerd equipment on an 81? Al
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Old Apr 10, 2010 | 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by mrvette
Let's suppose you have a 3 year old battery, and you take that fan power off the battery cable directly, the alt sees a power drain of course, but the alt voltage goes through a fuse link to the battery, so the battery sees less voltage on initial and steady charge than the alt thinks it is....so what happens is IF you say drive the car in summer with a/c on, and go in city/burbs use from stop to stop, or maybe just to work and back for a week, driving say 4 miles each way....that battery never sees 14.8 volts, lucky to see 13.x and so it's never fully charged on the 4 mile trip...now a FORTY mile freeway drive maybe a different thing...

but under adverse conditions, that battery never received a full charge because the fans are NOT SUPPOSED TO BE run off the BAT cable/ stud directly...

look at a GM factory wiring diagram, such as a '87 vette manual, electrical supplement...power distribution network.....

note the fans do not run off the battery directly, they have their own fuse link off the alt stud....as do mine....

CASE CLOSED.....

ya do it the way the guys building the gear intended.....

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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 12:11 PM
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If I grab the power off the alternator...should I take it right from the alt or from the voltage regulator on the fender?
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by terrible_buddhist
If I grab the power off the alternator...should I take it right from the alt or from the voltage regulator on the fender?
You can mount a 2 stud Mega Fuse Holder right beside the alternator and run the fan relays with inline fuses for them from the unfused side and connect to the horn relay from the fused side. This will also give you additional protection with the fuseable links and unclutter the horn relay.
You can also bump up the headlight circuit with relays from the unfused side.

As Mr Vette said, this will give you max voltage upfront. You want to keep the wires as short as possible.

NAPA # BK 7821143
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 02:41 PM
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In my case, I'm upgrading my alternator to a CS144 (just using a CS130 for now) and supplying the power from the alt. to the dual fans. I upgraded the gauge wire from the battery to a lug under the hood, then from the lug to the alt. and want to replace the fusible link near the battery with a fuse or breaker. Anybody know how many Amp rating fuse or breaker I need?
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by alswagg
Mrvette, I like your idea, On my 81, I am sure the wiring is original. the fan get is b+ voltage originating at the starter stud, going through a fusable link, up into a connector harness, this same wire then goes to the fan, through one more 2 wire connector. The ground is switched on and off from the temp switch on the passenger side head. These ground wires also go through the same OEM connector and onto the fan. This is a single fan in front of the clutched fan. The wiring looks GM the fan looks GM I see no relays to control. Again the switched circuit is on the B- side. The power witch the fan recieves is both battery and alternator since the alternator feeds the B+ to the starter post. Any ideas if this was standerd equipment on an 81? Al
Al, All your stuff is OEM on the '81. I'm in the process of making mine work again, just as you are.
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 06:27 PM
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My $.02 - I installed a BeCool 1600CFM dual setup in my '72 350 car. All wiring goes to the fuse box and relay kicks on the second fan at 180 degrees. Everything worked fine until I killed a couple batteries. The fix for my situation ended up being a 90 amp alternator.
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Schaggy
My $.02 - I installed a BeCool 1600CFM dual setup in my '72 350 car. All wiring goes to the fuse box and relay kicks on the second fan at 180 degrees. Everything worked fine until I killed a couple batteries. The fix for my situation ended up being a 90 amp alternator.
my worry as well, but we will cross that bridge when we get there. I have it set to kick on both fans at temp, but may switch it around later to always have one going.
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Old Apr 14, 2010 | 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by alswagg
Mrvette, I like your idea, On my 81, I am sure the wiring is original. the fan get is b+ voltage originating at the starter stud, going through a fusable link, up into a connector harness, this same wire then goes to the fan, through one more 2 wire connector. The ground is switched on and off from the temp switch on the passenger side head. These ground wires also go through the same OEM connector and onto the fan. This is a single fan in front of the clutched fan. The wiring looks GM the fan looks GM I see no relays to control. Again the switched circuit is on the B- side. The power witch the fan recieves is both battery and alternator since the alternator feeds the B+ to the starter post. Any ideas if this was standerd equipment on an 81? Al
Like others said it is all stock. The fan has a real high turn on point, cant remember but something like on at 224 deg F and off at 210. As I recall this fan doesnt put out very high cfm so I dont think you can use it to cool the radiator during normal operation
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Old Apr 14, 2010 | 05:41 PM
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C5 Corvette wiring diagram. Note location of the power pathway from:

Generator-->Fusible links-->Starter-->Battery-->Cooling Fans1 & 2 Relays:


Last edited by MN-Brent; Apr 14, 2010 at 05:47 PM.
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Old Aug 28, 2010 | 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by MIKE80
In my case, I'm upgrading my alternator to a CS144 (just using a CS130 for now) and supplying the power from the alt. to the dual fans. I upgraded the gauge wire from the battery to a lug under the hood, then from the lug to the alt. and want to replace the fusible link near the battery with a fuse or breaker. Anybody know how many Amp rating fuse or breaker I need?
Fusible link is 14guage. Standard sizing for fusible links is 2 guages smaller than the supply wire which makes the supply wire 10 guage. 10 guage is 30 amps. 30 amp fuse should do it. Use a slow blow fuse. It will take momentary spikes better than a standard fuse and still protect.
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